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Beyond Beauty: Taiwan from Above (2013)
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Beyond Beauty: Taiwan from Above Please don't be surprised. This is our home, Taiwan. If you haven't seen it like this, maybe it's because you've never been this high above it. Let us become a drifting cloud or a flying bird. Together, we see Taiwan. Together, we witness the beauty and sadness of this island. Every boat loaded with a day's catch is a reward for the fishermen's hard work. Every field full of crops is a prize for the farmers' effort. Our ancestors, coming from different places, sailed across the treacherous strait in different times. But they all had stood in the same fields, growing rice humbly, nurturing the crops with their sweat. They worked day in and day out just to grow enough food to build their homes and support their children. No matter where the field is. No matter how old we are. People from all walks of life have worked as hard as they can in this land. We not only keep ourselves going but promise ourselves that we will create a better future for our next generation. This island has been quietly nurturing us together with other living creatures. They had lived in harmony with this land for centuries. But who disrupted the balance between all living creatures and sowed the seeds of disaster? June 2012. We were flying along the coast of Taitung County. At the time, although it began to rain, it wasn't too heavy. But when the helicopter turned towards Pingtung Plain, it was hit by the southwest monsoon current. Heavy rain poured down and hit the front window hard. Meanwhile, currents started to emerge on the ground. Water flooded the fish farms as well as the fruit orchards. During the past two decades, on average each year, we have 93 days of heavy rain, 42 days of very heavy rain, and 13 days of extreme rain. But during the past thirty years, the days we have heavy rains have clearly increased while the days we have light rains have clearly decreased. In other words, we either have no rain or very heavy rain. The total rainfall in Taiwan hasn't changed much, but rain falls on fewer and fewer days. The rain concentrates to such an extent that the land can no longer bear it. Take Typhoon Morakot for example, the rainfall in Mt. Ali alone was a record-breaking 2855 mm in just five days. It was more than the yearly average rainfall in Taiwan. Before year 2000, disasters on such a big scale happened once every three or four years. But in the past ten years, we have had a super typhoon that caused such serious floods almost every year. Flying through layers of clouds, we see Mt. Dawu from above. The scars left by Typhoon Morakot remain clearly visible. In the past ten years, every time heavy rain poured down in the mountains, similar disasters happened. Hundreds of tons of mudflow and fallen rocks remind us how scary a natural disaster can be. Taiwan is a small mountainous island. Mountains make up almost three fourth of the surface. Moreover, most of it is very steep. Landslides, tremors, and mudflows often happen. Now after the 9/21 Earthquake disasters take place even more frequently. The driftwood washed down from the mountains were once the big tall trees in the forest. Now, lying silently in a pile on the riverbank, it looks like a jumble of abandoned dead bodies. Building a highway through the mountains was once regarded as a symbol of the iron will of mankind. In fact, it was the beginning of the end of the world. Men arrogantly drew the shortest line across the mountains and forests. By doing that, men destroyed the natural structure of the land. As a result, the road slides every time it rains. In order to keep it in position, containers are used as the supports. Cars keep running on the road day and night just because no one sees the terror right below. Most people cannot see the injuries we inflicted on our land. One after another, cars go up to the mountains. People in the cars often have no idea that the trip is more like an adventure than a tour. This is Zhushan Train Station in Mt. Ali. A popular spot for watching the sunrise. Every day it's crowded with tourists. But most people are unaware that what lies right underneath their feet is a large area of landslides. When a disaster strikes, even gods cannot protect themselves, let alone humble creatures like us. Only when we see from above, do we realize this mountain village is sandwiched between collapsed slopes. It looks like a lonely island. The roads that could be blocked at any time are its fragile lifelines. There are many mountain villages like this in Taiwan. People don't want to leave. It's their wish to protect their homeland and to stay with their ancestral spirits. But the biggest problem is, in fact, no one can guarantee them resource and space needed in life when they leave home. This is a mountain in our land. It was the home of broad-leaved forests. Their deep roots held the soil tight and keep the rainwater. Nonetheless, they grow so slowly that it takes them decades, even centuries to become big trees. How can trees like this compete with betel trees that bring men tons of money every year? As we now live in a time when everything is valued by how much profit it brings, the trees grown in the forests for generations have been mercilessly cut down. What replaced them were the betel saplings that grow money on them. Now from above, we see the excavator working on the ground. It's making more space for another crop. Tea. High mountain tea. The trees here were mercilessly felled as well. Oh, no, you can't say "mercilessly". In a time like this, we should say, they were felled "effectively". It's the same with the cabbage fields. Cabbage has always been grown in the plains. Just because some gourmet said, "The higher it's grown, the better it tastes." People began to grow cabbage on hills and turn forests into farmland. What we can see is a process of how beautiful mountains turned ugly. But what we cannot see is even more terrifying. When the trees whose deep roots held soil and water were pulled out of the ground and replaced by crops with shallow roots, it was, in fact, the beginning of a tragedy. Roads are built higher and higher up in the mountains. Our footprints go deeper and deeper into the forests. Bungalows with corrugated iron roofs are built in the woods. Baths made of cement are added next to the valleys. Wires and water pipes not only cut across the rivers but divide the sky in an arrogant manner. Tall buildings rise up in conservation areas. Hot spring hotels stop the flow of rivers. What is left in the valley is a narrow stream. When it pours down with rain, the water has nowhere to flow. But when our lives and properties are threatened, we always blame Nature instead of ourselves. We keep building fancy castles on the hills. We refuse to admit the pseudo European architecture doesn't go well with the surroundings. Furthermore, we refuse to admit the land cannot bear the strong impact brought upon by a development on such a large scale. But until disaster strikes luxurious B&Bs continue to be built. All due to the unstoppable flows of tourists as vacationing, eating vegetable and drinking tea grown in the mountains have become trendy things to do. No one realizes that he himself is an accomplice in causing disasters. The forests and mountains are hurt. Again and again, heavy rain washes the flesh and blood from their bodies. In the end, they dropped into the valley. When the river flows through the valley, the mud is deposited and becomes sediment. Therefore, a reservoir becomes a deposit of mud and stones. Wanda Reservoir was also known as Green Lake for its beautiful bluish green water. Today the deposit of mud and rocks in the reservoir is up to 80 million tons which takes up almost 70% of the capacity of the reservoir. The beautiful bluish green water is no longer seen. What we see now is a pool of muddy water. Most of the reservoirs in Taiwan are facing the crisis of deposits. Almost one third of the capacity is eaten up by mud. The total volume of the 17 major reservoirs in Taiwan was 2.65 billion cubic meters. By 2010, only 1.93 billion cubic meters was left. The volume of deposits has already reached 710 million cubic meters. However, the volume of the deposits is increasing at a rate of 22 million cubic meters every year. The life expectancy of the reservoirs is getting shorter and shorter, so the amount of water we can keep is getting smaller and smaller. We fail to keep the rain that Nature bestows on us. We helplessly watch it flow towards the sea. From the sky above the southwest coast of Taiwan, endless fish farms come into sight. Forty thousand hectares of the surface of the island are fish farms. Various species of fish are farmed for a total value of 30.7 billion Taiwanese dollars which makes up one third of the whole fishing industry in Taiwan. Fish farming needs large quantities of clean water. As a result, a large amount of groundwater has to be extracted. Hence countless water pipes are laid across the embankments and used to extract groundwater. According to the statistics, including the industrial use, more than 5 billion tons of groundwater are extracted every year. This is an amount far more than the land can bear. When the amount of groundwater extracted exceeds the limit, the land begins to sink. At the moment, the land that sinks fastest is in Yunlin County. On average, the land sinks more than 7 cm each year. So far, the land has sunk more than two meters deep. Taiwan is gradually sinking. In the plains on the west coast, more than 1,000 square kilometres of the surface has sunk below the sea level. Therefore, when the seawater intrusion occurs, the fields and houses all go underwater. The high-water marks on the walls are vivid records of each visit by the sea. The ancestors who have long rested underground have also fallen victim to it. The beautiful land they chose to settle in a century ago is flooded with salt water. Their burial ground has turned into the sea. The straight artificial harbours replaced the beautiful zigzag coastline. Every seven kilometres along the west coast of Taiwan lies an artificial harbour built of concrete. Abalone farms had once dominated the northeast coast of Taiwan. The beautiful rocky coastline was cut and divided by concrete. With profit in sight, no one had ever thought the damage was irreversible. The protruding breakwater causes changes in sand distribution and results in the so-called "groin effect". It means sand accumulates in large quantities on the side facing the current. On the other side, sand is lost to the sea and this means the shore is receding. As a result, we put even more tetrapods to stop the erosion by the sea. So more and more concrete is accumulated at the seaside. The artificial tetrapods replace the natural rocks where sea creatures gather and hunt for food. Taiwan has a coastline of 1322 km of which 55.56% has concrete built upon it. We built a wall separating ourselves from the sea. Moreover, it stops our children getting close to the sea. Isn't it such an irony for an island country like Taiwan? The sea is where life originated. The sea is not a barrier. It's the route from this island to the rest of the world. We should never see it as a barrier or let it stop us. More importantly, we should never change its colour or destroy its natural purity. The wetlands are natural water purifiers. Toxins are depleted here before flowing into the sea. Therefore they gained the reputation as "the kidney of the Earth". However, due to overdevelopment and environmental pollution, the wetlands are shrinking. If we carry on what we have been doing, more than half of the wetlands in Taiwan will disappear in front of our eyes. The over-fertilized farmland, over-use of detergents and sewage all are causes of eutrophication. Together with the untreated water from factories, they turn clear running water into a pool of stagnant water. Due to untreated water from factories and garbage pollution, the Guanyin Coast of Taoyuan has lost the beautiful turquoise colour it once had. The polluted and pristine waters separate from each other like Yin and Yang. We follow the black current, tracing it back to the estuary. From the polluted river, the black current of untreated water keeps flowing into the sea. In Taiwan, there are countless seriously polluted rivers like this one. An image like this frightens us, but we either feel helpless or pretend we cannot see it. The untreated water not only pollutes the sea but contains toxic substances. Once they have soaked into the soil, it will be even more difficult to get rid of them. However, we drink water from here and eat the crops grown here. As we cannot see it, we never feel threatened. We have gotten used to blaming Nature, the Earth and the government when things go wrong. These factories with corrugated iron roofs once contributed to Taiwan's economic miracle. They improved our lives but also produced serious pollution. By the time we had risen above the poverty line, become better-off and started to pay attention, the water pollution was unfortunately growing at a faster rate than we could clean it. Although we have implemented environmental laws, there are still factories which surreptitiously pump out untreated water at night. It adds a layer of black oil to the polluted yellow water in the river. All the living creatures in the river were completely wiped out. None survived. What is more shocking is that such polluted water is allowed to flow across residential areas. So this is the environment we live in. In the end, we could only imagine the original colours of mountains and the sky. This is a cement mine on the east coast of Taiwan. The cement industry has huge impact on the environment. A ton of cement is made from 1.4 tons of limestone, 300 kilos of clay and 60 kilos of silica sand. In order to get these raw materials, we cut the beautiful forests into pieces. But we cannot see such destruction, because we never go into the mountains. Furthermore, mining cement is a highly energy-consuming business. To produce a ton of cement, you need 112.9 kWh of electricity and 132.7 kilos of coal. It also emits large amounts of CO2. But cement is needed in our lives. Mining seems to be a necessary evil. We produce more than 19M tons of cement every year. Nearly half of it is exported. We turn our beautiful mountains and forests into cement and sell it to others. Then we leave the destroyed environment to our next generation. In addition to cement, the amount of sand and gravel mined is even more astonishing. More than 100 million tons of sand and gravel is produced every year, of which around 60% is mined illegally. After this illegal mining, a huge crater is left in the ground. The more terrifying fact is that some heartless businessmen will fill it with garbage, causing another environmental disaster. In fact, the amount of sand and gravel washed down from the river is large enough. There is no need to mine illegally. It's just because the businessmen want to lower the cost, so they don't want to do it legally. If profit tops the priorities, who would care about the environmental damage? Under the banner of economic development, industrial parks mushroomed in Taiwan. We see chimneys erected all over the place. When there is no space left in the land, we fight against the sea for more land. We turn the beautiful coast into artificial islands like those in the fantasy world. This is a giant chimney of 250 meters in height. The Taichung Power Plant Taichung Power Plant is the largest coal-fired power station in the world. Without it, we won't have enough electricity to meet the industrial and domestic demands. However, it's also the largest CO2 emitter in the world. In order to send electricity to every corner, we built countless pylons which spread across rivers and mountains. The power company spends lots of money on maintaining the network to ensure a steady supply of electricity. Nevertheless, amid the green in the mountains, the pylons with warning signs saying "High voltage. Keep Out." Are hardly in harmony with the surroundings. But these densely built pylons play an important role in our comfortable lives. Right here, we see the contradictory nature and conflicts between industrial development and environmental protection. For example, we enjoy the speed and convenience of the Taiwan High Speed Railway. But all our daily activities are supported by large amounts of electricity. We can communicate with people in faraway places and build economic relations with the rest of the world. But what is hidden in the figure of our economic growth is the rapidly-increasing consumption of energy. In recent years, the high-tech industry has become the main player in Taiwan's exports. Moreover, it's become the symbol of Taiwan's competitiveness. But this high-earning industry is also a high-energy-consuming industry. According to the statistics, the IT industry's need makes up 16% of the total electricity consumption in Taiwan. To resolve the conflicts between energy demand and environmental protection is definitely not a question of who is wrong and who is right. More importantly, it's not a fight between different ideologies. It's a serious issue everyone has to face rationally. In fact, the contradiction and conflicts we're facing aren't only between energy demand and environmental protection. We face a similar problem in the basic need for housing. When the land in the plains is in shortage, we fight against the hills for more land. However, the houses always increase at a rate faster than the revision of the regulations. In the old days, people said "Houses rise from the ground". Now, we say "Houses rise from the hills". An old nursery goes like this. "A brook runs in front of my home. A hill stands at the back." Now what lies in front of our houses is not a brook, but a collapsed slope full of danger. What we care about a house is how much it costs each square meter rather than if it will still be safe for us to live in tomorrow. The contradictory nature and conflicts between material comforts and environmental protection have actually existed in our lives for a long time. We say we want to save energy and protect the Earth but produce large amounts of garbage at the same time. Maybe you've no idea that the amount of garbage we produce in Taiwan is one of the largest in the world. We have to deal with 7.4 million tons of garbage each year. Most of the landfill sites are situated near the sea where no one pays attention or protests against. On many of these sites, the precautions aren't taken carefully, so when the waves lap against the shore, they take the garbage back to the sea. Drifting with the currents, the garbage spreads along the coast. In the past, due to a lack of funding, some city councils buried the garbage near the cities. Now they pose such a threat to public health that we have to spend more time and money digging it out and treating it properly. But the irony is when we're dealing with the old garbage, we keep producing even more as if as long as we couldn't see it, the problem of garbage didn't exist. This is our island, our home. For several generations, we have lived in this land poor in natural resources but rich in natural disasters. Nevertheless, we've worked so hard to create an unprecedentedly flourishing economy. Meanwhile, this island has been nurturing generations of people with her flesh and blood. Like a mother who has borne too many children, gradually, her body is exhausted and in great pain. But she never complains and remains silent, offering her children whatever they ask for. Only when her children greedily squeeze the last drop of milk out of her, can we hear her moan softly in agony. People often say that if it wasn't for the wealth and happiness of our children, our hard work would be meaningless. Sometimes I feel that the so-called hard work is an excuse for pillage. We pillage large amounts of resources from this land to satisfy our endless desire. But we never thought and probably will never admit that what we leave our next generation is the aftermath of looting. History has shown us that the peak of a boom is often the beginning of the decline. Is the same worrying crisis looming behind the boom we're enjoying at the moment? Is it? This is Houlong Township in Miaoli County. Ms. Hung Hsiang together with her fellow villagers had resisted the temptation and pressure from the outside. They refused to turn their land into an industrial park. They insist on organic farming. In her fields, weeds, insects and crops live in harmony. She says, "We should have what is left by the insects". "What we need isn't much. We just want too much." In recent years, the number of people who share her thoughts has been increasing. They insist on organic and environmentally friendly farming methods. The proportion of their effort to their gain may seem laughable to people who are used to high returns and efficiency. But they firmly believe that only when we treat our land friendly will it treat our offspring friendly in return. Here comes another example. His name is Lai Ching-song. He had studied in Japan and witnessed the Japanese's attitude to their environment. Therefore when he returned to Taiwan, he gave up the comfortable life and high-earning job in the city. He went back to the village in Yilan to learn farming from scratch, to grow rice organically. Like Ms. Hung Hsiang, to grow rice in this way, your gain is often not in proportion to your effort. Sometimes, you get even less than you put in. As a result, he came up with an idea. He set up a cooperative like a club. He invites people who share his idea to join the cooperative. Lai is responsible for the work in the fields. He and his partners share the risks of natural disasters and others. In return, they share the harvest. What Hung Hsiang and Lai Ching-song has done is an attempt. But it is the beginning of something important. Their action demonstrates a simple idea - for the sake of our future generations, we have no rights to indulge ourselves with our endless desire. Because we live here only temporarily. We're just migrants on the Earth. Close your eyes Breathe in deep Can you see what I see? Keeping us in constant awe This feeling captured in time Isn't there more to this? More than what we're told Isn't there hope in this? More than this world gives If we only realize the pain we've caused Know that there is still tomorrow Discover the light in this land How long more can we breathe? Can you see what I see? Fills us up Leaves us void Look into it and tell me Isn't there more to this? More than what we're told Isn't there hope in this? More than this world gives If we only realize the pain we've caused Know that there is still tomorrow Discover the light in this land Let us work together to make home a better place. |
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