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Eating Animals (2017)
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[thrilling music] We are fairly certain that they do not live in the past or look to the future. Then the man told her "If they don't dwell on the past "and they can't hope for the future "they can only live in the present. "And if their circumstances lead them to suffer.. ...then that is the totality of their existence." [instrumental music] [music continues] [music continues] [music continues] [music continues] This is 16 weeks. This is still the pattern which I follow today. The Hamburg, an ancient old German breed. Here's the king of all the egg chickens, the Leghorns. "The American Standards Of Perfection." You get a copy of "The Standards" and you look at the chicken and you look at the picture. You look at the chicken and you look at the picture until you imprint it in your head. The slight arch of the tail the height, uh, where the neck is over the head. So when I began to try to bring back standard-bred birds and as I did my work, I thought I'm going to go back to the original utility farm birds. I grew up on a farm here in Kansas.. ...and my father showed cattle and stuff and did it for a living back then. And as a kid, you know, county fairs to me was just as exciting as Christmas or holidays or anything. And then I started seeing all the chickens. My dad said that all of a sudden, I would be gone He always knew where to find me. I would always be over in the chicken barn. At the age of five, I got my first show chickens. This is what we breed here. The Barred Rock is the oldest American breed that there is. This is the breed that everybody raised in this country by the millions from about 1850 to 1950s. The White Jersey Giant was a wonderful breed. Extremely slow-growing and everything and that's part of the reason why they lost favor. Other than the 40 or 50 I have here there's probably not another 20 in the whole world. Everything I'm doing here is nothing new. In fact, this is all very, very old. This is poultry farming 50 years ago. There was this wonderful system of farmers who got together and supported each other to produce the best. That is completely gone today. He tells them the story how in 1923 in the Delmarva Peninsula a small, almost funny, accident happened to an Ocean View housewife named Celia Steele. She had received 500 chicks instead of the 50 she had ordered. Rather than get rid of them, she decided to experiment with keeping the birds indoors through the winter. Confined and lacking sun and exercise her birds would never have survived were it not for the newly discovered feed supplements. Steele's loop of experimentation continued. In 1923, she had 10,000 birds and in 1935, 250,000. Ten years after Steele's breakthrough the Delmarva Peninsula had become the poultry capital of the world. She had perhaps unknowingly given birth to the modern poultry industry and begun the global creep of factory farming. No one fired a pistol to mark the start of the race to the bottom. The Earth just tilted and everyone slid into the hole. Pull that first bottle, pull the first bottle out see what they got for clarity. You got the sample number? Great. Great. This is sample number 3-E. - Okay.. - Hey, Larry. There's somebody that's movin' right on the other side of that shed over there. Yeah. There's a creek that runs through this tree line off in the distance. Somewhere just over three miles long. In that one creek, there are 31 CAFOs Concentrated Animal Feeding Operations that eventually drain into that one specific creek. So we've actually, uh, started doin' some some checkin' on this creek, on these -- on these waters to see what we're comin' up with. Here in Eastern North Carolina the area is rural, the people are poor very little political clout. And we have one of the heaviest concentration of swine in the world. And very soon, we'll likely have the highest concentration of poultry operations in the world. This river was just a paradise. You'd catch more fish in just a few hours than you knew what to do with. This was a place that you could really make a living fishing. And then all of a sudden in the early '90s my son and I began to see fish with sores on them. We began to see fish dyin' in larger and larger numbers and then we began to get the sores that the fish had. We continued fishing until this river out here was coated shore to shore with these dead fish. There were so many dead fish, they were burying them with a bulldozer on the other beach. So we shut everything down. I remember the early days. I went out to near the mouth of the river and I could see sediments running in and different things but I didn't see a source anywhere which would account for all the carnage that was going on in the river. When I got back to New Bern, I told the pilot let's fly up the Trent River to figure out what was wrong with this river and get it fixed. When I got into Jones County, I began to see all these pink Pepto-Bismol-lookin' lagoons. Uh, I didn't know what they were. I had no idea. I saw the barns but I really didn't know what I was lookin' at. Everywhere you look. You can be at 1000 feet over Duplin County you look out over the horizon, you can count 100 lagoons as you look around the airplane. 100. I remember I called some folks over some friends I had in Division Water Quality in North Carolina. I said, "Hey, what are those things?" And then he said, "Rick, don't you know? Those are hog lagoons." You know, you say pink lagoon. Doesn't that sound nice? You know, you got a girl in a bathing suit layin' out a little chair and table with some cocktails on it and everybody's stretched out in front of the lagoon. Here's what's goin' on in a lagoon. You got 10,000 pigs in these confinement buildings and what they're doing is they're defecating. They're poopin' right on the floor and it goes through slats and then it goes under the floor out to these huge cesspools that are nothing but dirt-lined. No concrete liners, no plastic liners just basically dirt. It goes in that lagoon and as that lagoon begins to fill up with this fecal marinade of feces and urine they gotta do something with it. They shoot up in the air and it ends up in the ditches and it ends up in our water and then our river goes out of balance. And the fish begin to die and people begin to get sick. The Earth is about 5.3 billion years old. Mammals have only been around 60 million years. Anatomically, modern humans have been around for about 200,000 years. And then virtually everything that we associate with human culture and human civilization has occurred in the last 10,000 years. And in that 10,000 years this incredible spike of population, of consumption uh, of essentially humanity freein' itself from the constraints of many natural systems has all happened in the last 200 years beginning in the 18th century but really becoming intense in this post World War II period that people call the Great Acceleration. This transformation now is called the Anthropocene. This is the period that's dominated by humanity. We are the Goliath and nature in all of its forms is the David. There's never been a time in world history in which there's been so many people with so much access to the conditions of a decent life. There's also never been any point in human history when there have been so many people who don't have access to the necessary conditions of a decent life. Never has humanity been so powerful since we crawled out of the trees. But probably never have individual humans actually felt so disempowered. The truth is, we don't really know what to do with ourselves. We don't know what we want and in part, we don't know what we want because we don't know who we are. And so the place to begin is to try to go back and try to understand who we are. Colonel.. ...Harland.. ...Sanders. Is that right, sir? That's right. [audience applauding] Colonel, I don't know what you do but I think you look too beautiful to work. [audience laughing] Colonel Harland Sanders was born in Henryville, Indiana, in 1890. His father died when he was five forcing his mother to take on two jobs. His mother was away for days on end leaving Harland to forage for things in the fields like sassafras buds and apples to cook for his younger brother and sister. I used to work here on this farm, clearin' new ground. Then that first month, he fired me. My mother, she said "What on Earth are you ever going to amount to? "Harry, you've got no father. I got nobody to help me and depend on but you." And I made a resolve, if I ever got another job I was sure going to see, prove to her that I was worthy of it. [instrumental music] After a long run of failures Harland Sanders began cooking out of his service station to make some extra money. We'd cook meals for the five in the family and then we wouldn't eat it right away ourselves hoping to sell one, two, three, or the five meals. People began to come from miles around. But pan-frying chicken took too long and Harland couldn't keep up with the demand so he modified a then new appliance known as the pressure cooker. He was able to reduce the cooking time down to the minutes and meet customers' growing demand. By 1964, Colonel Sanders was unable to keep up with the business and he sold the company for two million dollars under the pretense that there would be quality control and that no one would tamper with his chicken recipe. Well, how'd you like to make a million dollars frying chicken? Today's guest did just that. And I just think things have got to be right and there's nothing in the world more demanding in food than to have quality there. Kentucky Fried Chicken! Bonzai! You have a reputation of being very fussy about your original recipe. that you want things cooked the way the colonel meant them to be cooked. - Is that true? - That's right. That's right. It just had to be right. That's all there was to it. You know, we kind of got away from that, too, actually by selling out to two different corporations since I sold but they've depreciated the value of my product. Howdy, folks? It's me, Colonel Sanders. I've been gone for a while and, boy howdy have things changed. The guy came out and he did a little presentation. And I trusted the numbers and trusted him and then he has, like, this cost projection sheet. Even if you make the minimum that we can pay you you're still gonna have positive cash flow. The farming economy was bad. I wanted to stay here on the farm. My kids are the fifth generation in North Carolina and I looked at that as kind of like my lifeline. What's the drawback here? Of course, she told me not to do it. And I'm like, "No, honey. This is a sure thing. I got a contract." Well, the problem is, is every number on that paper that he gave me was pulled straight out of fantasyland. My reservation was the debt. Well, I mean, you know, we were 20. She was 21, I was 25 and you're talkin' about a quarter million dollars. That's a lot of money. I went from two houses to four houses. My income did not double. My expenses more than doubled. It's just a treadmill of debt. Every contract's take it or leave it. You're half a million dollars in debt. You're gonna take it. It sucks, but you'll take it. You come across these masterpieces. Steel, plastic, rotating wheels. Mechanical arms repeating the same motion. All brought together in the most ingenious ways to produce more and more. Is this efficiency? You once farmed independently with sweat and labor love and tedium, and it was satisfying. Now you go into debt, turn on the machines take orders from central command.. ...but you are efficient. That's why you do it. You and your machines are feeding the world. You are giving people what they want. You want this world, you want efficiency. You don't wanna put anyone out of business. Nobody ever got the idea wouldn't it be really cool if we raised millions of animals under really hideous conditions and gave them short, miserable and painful lives. By the way, we would also pollute our waterways uh, and deplete our top soils. Wouldn't that really be a great way of doing business? There was never sort of some evil genius whose idea it was to create a world that was like that. It's -- it's a place that we got to step by step. And we're going, "How did we get here?" The United Nations released a report. It was over 400 pages. It's called "Livestock's Long Shadow." And in this report, they said whatever environmental issue you're looking at water pollution, air pollution, climate change raising animals for food are one of the top two or three contributors. It causes somewhere between 14% and more than half of all climate change. And so now we're at this point where it's a question of how do we go somewhere else. If you look back a generation or two many, many people were raising pigs this way. But the basics that I am using today is passed from one generation to the next. Father, son, grandfather. It's a way of life rather than going to, uh, a factory producing protein units. - Sophia. - What? - Are they all up and out? - I think pretty much. - And they're looking happy? - Yeah. If you come out here, you'll notice that they'll be watching you. They -- they pay attention. They run away first and then they're all gonna come back. They wanna know what's going on. And I, I think that's really part of how a pig makes its living, you know? They're interested in a lot of things. They're intelligent. They like being together. They're a group animal. If they're by themself, they're uncomfortable. Basically, everything that we're gonna have for breakfast is from right here. Uh, it's either from the garden or eggs from our chickens. And the sausage is from Niman Pork. When I first started raising pigs in the '70s I went to meetings and you know, they told me you gotta get bigger or get out. And they showed me these buildings and how you could put one of these up and how many animals you could raise and all this kind of thing. I just had to visit one of those buildings once to realize that I -- I just -- I just did not wanna raise animals like that. I'd seen free-range chicken in the market. Why don't we call these free-range pigs, you know? So I sent some pork out there, trying to, you know market to some of the restaurants in San Francisco. Specialty market. So the chef said, "I don't know what you do but this is the best pork I've ever had in my life." Almost from the beginning I started looking for other farmers that were not going for the confinement system. Initially, we weren't creating new farmers. We were just finding the ones that were there. As the demand continued to grow I started working on the network of Niman Ranch farmers which today is about 500 farmers. [cows mooing] This is what it means when the grass is always greener. As you go down into these lower areas, the soil gets thicker and they know that the grasses down here are better for them. They're more palatable, there's more energy. It's really strong. And that means that the fiber is there and -- and it's -- it's really producing a lot of milk and -- and flesh. The meat industry has done a good job of disconnecting eating meat from killing animals and it's really made it possible for people not to fully appreciate that there a -- actually is an animal that had to be murdered for them to eat this. [instrumental music] They're animals that we have a contract with to care for.. ...and provide the best possible life. So we've done all that. They've had a good life and now we have the authority to decide that we're gonna take their life and cut them up into pieces and feed people. So it's, uh, uh, it's -- it's a tough moment. [indistinct chatter] The people born into animal agriculture today think that confinement agriculture is the way it's supposed to be. If the consuming public saw what it really looks like they would stop eating it. You have to start thinking like the turkey and realize what they're gonna do next.. ...and also sort of learn their language. I mean, turkeys are always talking. They have a tremendous language of their own and many, many different vocalizations that mean different things. So that's part of the reason why Ben Franklin didn't want the eagle. He thought the wild turkey was a far more majestic, honorable animal. People think turkeys as being stupid and, you know, drowned in the rain and all this stuff, which isn't true. That all got based where people went out and bought baby turkeys and brought them home and didn't properly house them. And it rained and they all drowned. But my response to that is take a human baby and put it out in the rainstorm and see how long it -- it survives. It will put its head up and drown. Um, you know, that had more to do with just really bad care. Now the other side of it is that the modern industrial turkey that everybody buys at Thanksgiving is a lot stupider. But that's because of man when they've decided to take the turkey off the land and house them in buildings actually began to select for stupidity. Because if you have an animal that you don't want it to do anything, you want it to just eat and stand there and gain weight you don't want it to have any intelligence. [laughs] They like to be where the action is. I finally learned why drugs are so essential to factory farming poultry. Healthy birds don't require drugs. Sick mutated ones do. Turkeys have been so genetically altered that they're no longer even capable of having sex. They're all artificially inseminated. I learned that because corporations want to pay less for feed and Americans like the taste of fat. Today's meat birds have been bred with mutant obese genes to grow faster and fatter than ever imaginable before. So much faster and fatter that if a human baby had her growth similarly accelerated a two-month-old would weigh more than six hundred pounds. They're trapped in these bodies that keep them from doing normal animal behavior. Well, abnormal is now called normal. Fifty years ago, these chickens wouldn't have survived on the farm. The family farm was the original small business in this country. There was this notion that through your own hard work and your own decisions, you can either succeed or fail. And that was an idea that embedded itself in the American way, that embedded itself in the American economy and culture and lasted until the 1970s when we changed what economic sovereignty meant. You know, the almighty good and the best object you can achieve is just cheapness. Make the food as cheap as you possibly can. And as long as it's cheap people really didn't care how it was produced. We still hold this idea in our head that there's capitalism out there in rural America that we have independent farmers that rise or sink based on how well they do. What we really have now is a system that looks a lot like a Soviet Politburo system. It's a system based on central planning central ownership, centralized control. I mean, you've literally got a control room in Springdale, Arkansas with people typin' away on computers, figurin' out how many chickens are gonna be raised on farms in the state of Georgia or North Carolina or Mississippi. John Tyson and his son, Don were brilliant businessmen. You know, he started out by hauling you know, fruit from Arkansas to Kansas City. And then when that went under, then he started hauling chickens and then that's what started his business. He had a lot of guts. Don Tyson was brilliant and visionary and ruthless and completely unsentimental. He was born in near poverty. The northwest corner of Arkansas was the poorest corner of one of the poorest states in the country. Nobody showed a great measure of pity to him when he was growing up and I don't think he felt he owed that to anybody else. The chicken business was pretty simple then. We grew one chicken, it made money. We grow two chickens, it makes money. We grow more. And so that, that's the history of our company. But as it grew, he ran into the problems that I have today. The demand fluctuated too much. He had to find a way where he had a product that didn't change, that was identical and was in demand 12 months of the year. Don spent 12 years going to McDonald's saying "I can make chicken cheaper than anybody can make a pound of beef or a pound of pork." And finally after 12 years they -- they saw what he was seeing. And that was the Chicken McNugget. McDonald's new Chicken McNuggets McDonald's and you He was always capable of putting the, the risk, the loss the chances on other people. Preferably his farmers. They always paid the price when things failed. He'd invented the tournament system. It is truly a Machiavellian and brilliant system that all these companies now use. The tournament is unique in that most farmers get paid a certain price for the commodity they raise. You know, corn farmers, soybean farmers there's a market price for their product. But chicken farmers get paid based on the terms of this tournament. Tyson will take all the farmers in an area and then it will rank them based on how efficiently their birds were fattened up on a given ration of feed that Tyson provided. Based on your ranking you were either paid a premium price or your pay is cut and that is the bonus that's given to the farmers at the top. It makes it so all farmers know that if they're going to do well it is gonna be at the expense of their neighbors. So it systematically divides and conquers rural communities. It makes sure that farmers don't cooperate they don't share information. If I try to compare the results of my tournament to my neighbor's I can actually be sued by the company. I have no desire whatsoever for my kids to do this. I've got more faith in them and they're smart enough to not do what their daddy did and, uh, I just had such a bug to get back to the farm. I got nobody's butt to kick but mine for getting into it. Um, but I will keep them out of it. My 13-year-old son has never set foot in these houses. Neither will my other son or my daughter. I don't know one chicken farmer that's happy. It's that disrespect for the farmers. For what we are to this business and to be treated like, uh, uh.. ...like a serf. Somebody called it indentured servitude. Indentured servant doesn't have $500,000 worth of debt. I'd trade places with him. Year after year, the lopsided contracts reduce Craig to little more than a low-level manager of his own farm owning nothing more than the houses the waste and the dead birds. His chief concern becomes protecting his family from the danger of their massive debt. It's not just the unwinding of a way of life. There is, perhaps, an exhaustion of spirit. We turned off the interstate in the Central Valley and headed toward the town of Tulare to see if we could find any trace of the lake that was no longer there. Tulare Lake was once the largest body of fresh water west of the Mississippi before it disappeared. We were told that long before European settlers came here, the lake's basin was home to the largest Native American population in North America. How they once thrived on the plants and animals that lived around the lake. Tulare Lake was a significant stop for millions of birds migrating along the Pacific Flyway. With its fertile ground and water resources settlers began to move in. And in the 1850s the governor of California ordered the execution and annihilation of the Yokut Indian Nation. As settlements grew the farmers redirected the rivers that fed the lake to provide water for their crops and farm animals. The early pioneers of big agro business took the cows off pastures and placed them into high-density feed lots. We drove through the now dry lakebed and passed the massive dairy complexes that now populate the area. Okay, let's see. He's right behind us again. Who knows what he's doing? So stay off of our property. We have our right. We're on a state road. So I'm not doing anything wrong. I appreciate it, okay? Thanks. Okay. It is good. Let's pass on now. Wow. Might want to get a picture of this too. Good eye. [indistinct chatter] Back, back, back, back. Here he comes. Paul, here he comes. Paul, he's coming. Nine billion farm animals. Their lives are categorized by unmitigated misery from the moment they're born to the moment that they're slaughtered. 98% of people eat animal products and 98% of people are complicit in cruelty to animals that if they actually witnessed it they would find it morally loathsome. These are the worst jobs in the country working in slaughterhouses. And yet anytime anybody is eating meat you are entering into this mercenary relationship wherein you are paying someone else to slice animals' throats open for you to castrate pigs without pain relief even on the so-called humane farms to slice the beaks off of chickens even on the cage-free egg farms. The level of abuse from the farm to transportation to slaughter is something that will shock the conscience of most kind people. It's only a matter of time before you move from you know, where we are now to a world in which more and more people are saying you know, well, maybe we shouldn't be consuming them in the first place. Do you have eight? Today is the day in which we load all the turkeys for the Thanksgiving market. It's always the day I hate. It's -- it's not like it's a great enjoyment to know that I'm going to send these turkeys off to their death. I just don't know how else to finance what I'm doing. This is the way I know of saving these endangered animals. There ought to be 12 in there. If you want to help preserve them or save them we have to put them back into your meal. Are you gonna drive dad's truck or is he gonna drive? He is. Where do you want me to move it to? They'll start loading right here. When he was a young kid, he told me he was gonna do this. I mean, he was eight years old he bought twelve turkeys and, uh, he raised them all and when they got about, oh, half-growing the, the coyotes got in 'em and killed them all but one. And that one turkey was kind of like one of the family for years. Lars, my wife, she went to leave one day to g -- go get the kids from school and backed over that turkey.. [laughs] ...with the car. And, of course, she jumped out and wrung its neck and right away and let it bleed out, so we.. It wasn't a waste. We ate it. He is really old. Sort of support him up or he isn't gonna breath right. But after that, well, he always had turkeys. [indistinct chatter] This has to work. I've thought about that a lot at night that it is my responsibility to show people because part of sustainability is the economics. And, you know, these birds have to pay for their way. Part of being a farmer is making a living at it. So who says standard-bred turkeys have to be skinny little narrow-breasted things. Look at that, some of these hens. Beautiful round-breasted hens. These birds you've worked with for six, seven months and you've started with an egg and hatched and everything else are gonna be sent off to be killed. And if, if you're not aware of that you know, but I love my turkeys so I know what's gonna happen. Today farmers working outside of the factory farm system are required to fit themselves into a model built to serve big ag. Access to affordable slaughterhouses what the industry calls processing plants is the single biggest problem that farmers like Frank face. Most slaughterhouses in America today simply refuse to work with smaller clients. Independent farmers once a crowned jewel of American democracy are now peasants serving the will of corporations. We sent our turkeys to the processing plant in Nebraska to be processed not knowing that the plant is very close to being foreclosed on by the bank. The employees really didn't give a damn and they were cutting the colons and spilling fecal material all over the meat and the inspectors were condemning them all and nobody really cared. The turkeys are just part of the widget that's gotta get shut down the assembly line. Basically, they destroyed 40% of our flock. We more or less lost about the entire amount of turkeys which was about 2600 turkeys was -- was the number of turkeys I put on the truck. You know, again, these big companies these big corporations, you know, they don't get it. So we're entering MARC, uh, right now. The most striking thing about it is that there are these large concrete bunkers they used to manufacture ammunitions during World War II and they stored them in the bunkers. And they were able to get it transferred from US Military Department of Defense to the, uh, USDA and created the MARC. It's probably the largest livestock research center in the world. More than a billion dollars has been spent over there in the past 50 years, which is allocated by Congress to support maximizing meat production and dairies and things like that. As a clinical veterinarian I've been at MARC for half of its lifetime. So I knew where the dead bodies were buried. About a mile down, there is probably some sheep. That's it. Left side of the road. - All those buildings. - What did you say, Connie? I'm saying that's the research center. I was banned from here eight or nine months ago. - Here comes another car. - Yeah, we got company. They're probably calling MARC security. Well, they can't do anything to us. We haven't done anything wrong. What I came to realize over the years was some of the actual experiments that they did there I could no longer buy into. One was a case where a technician did surgery on about 60 pigs. She used a very fine suture and the wrong suture pattern and so a couple days after the surgery all the guts fell out of the pigs. So when a lamb is born.. Another case that comes to mind is the project called the Easy Care sheep and MARC was trying to fight nature. They were trying to convert domesticated sheep into a wild sheep and the idea was just to minimize the labor. I had a veterinary student and his job he would just pick up lambs by the dozens or hundreds depending on the day, that had died each day. So he'd go out there and pick up all the deads. Another example I can think about was on a Saturday I was on call. The technician told me there was a heifer that was down. So I went up there and it turned out it was from an experiment. Typically, the way to measure sex drive in a bull is you put one bull into a pen with a single female who's in heat and you see how many times the bull mounts the female in 15 minutes. In this case, this heifer was with five or six bulls restrained in a headlock. I'm -- I'm not sure why, what the rationale for that was but this heifer was mounted until she ruptured both of her Achilles tendons and broke both of her rear legs. Basically, a cow was raped to death. After that, I started documenting things I saw or things I heard about, cases of animal abuse. I had a log. I guess at some point, uh I realized I just.. Yeah, I just, it was time to pull the trigger. I thought I could just be hidden and just supply Michael Moss of "The New York Times" with the documents. Another veterinarian showed up unexpectedly and, uh, saw me with him there and -- and that's how I got found out. Is this the same guy in the red? Yes. Probably a security guy. Do I have to stop? Is he looking at me? You're staying on the road. You can do whatever you want. Oh, we're just driving, looking around. Okay, um, I notice you got a camera in the back there. - Yes, we do. - Okay, what is it for? It's, uh, we're filming. You're on federal property, sir. - Are you -- - May I see your ID? Uh, are you a -- a state police? - No. - Okay, then I'm sorry. I'm not going to. I know my rights. She's writing down your plate. Now what? - You can go. - Okay, okay. Hours after they were stopped for filming Jim and Connie received a knock on the door from an FBI agent specializing in eco-terrorism. Despite the fact that he has no criminal record the agent placed a file folder on the table an inch and a quarter thick and opened it to the first page revealing a color photograph of Jim. Not long after he was visited by the FBI Jim bought "The Whistleblower's Handbook" and in it, he read that about 80% of the time the whistleblower gets hammered. It just builds over 20-something years. I mean, you just get to a point where.. I mean, everybody's got that point and I just hit mine watching that, uh, Perdue commercial. My dad always, uh, taught us one line. Uh, do the right thing and we're doing the right thing and we're transparent. He wants the public to believe that that's a normal farm. I might not be a lot of things, but I'm not a liar. My granddaddy drilled that into me very good. Um, he always said, you know, tell the truth no matter how bad it hurts. I've seen birds with four legs, no eyes. Bacteria-laden intestines. You'll smell that walking in the door. That can be horrendous. And you'll see heart attacks. They call them flip-overs. We call it water belly. This will get purple and it's just full of fluids. It's a absolute breakdown of the heart lungs and whatnot. I'm not a vet, but that's not normal. Rubber. The leg's folded completely in half. I -- I really don't know what happens. It's just so soft that it doesn't snap. You run into a lot of these that can't get up. You can hear respiratory in this one really bad. Can you hear it? This is your premium primetime, no antibiotic ever, cage-free humanely raised, blah-blah, whatever else is on that label. You know, I -- I -- I mean, I took pictures. I cut the birds open, told them what it was sent it, nobody came. If you want the egg to hatch you had to leave it in there with.. If Craig, he had come to me first and said "I wanna be a whistleblower. I wanna tell the truth about what's happening on these farms.." I would not have said, get a camera and start videotaping because the risk would have been too high. We've been around for 37 years and, uh, represented very high-profile whistleblowers and we know what happens. You're probably just gonna get your ass handed to you by the corporation. It's not just like you can come up to these giants and throw stones and say bad things about them and expect not to have some sort of retaliation. There's a brand that's at stake and they definitely wanna fight for that. We were going through the government route and -- and what we found out was if you step in that congressman's office time you leave, the chicken counselor knows that you were just there. That's just the way it is. And I found out, okay, the hot button is video. I'm Craig Watts. I'm a contract poultry producer with Perdue Farms. Leah released a video and "The New York Times" picked it up and then they got it on the "Reddit" board and, and it's just like, pfft, damn. "Forbes" and "Washington Post" and front page of "Reddit" and "New York Times," "Wired." It really upset people. The next thing you knew, there's a half million views in 24 hours, and I was like, "Oh, shoot." I mean, I didn't expect that. They dispatched a team of welfare experts to my farm. Company people. Six visits in ten days, if I remember right. They were telling me my welfare standards on my farm weren't up to their standards. How can I be so bad to finish first in the tournament system? The whole thing was to get me to the breaking point. What you guys doin' over here? - Just filming. - Just a little videotaping. Well, you can't be filming my farm. - Why not? - Because I don't want you to. - Well, okay, well. - Yeah. You guys might as well get in your trucks and go on about your business. Now you're here trying to hurt me. - I'm not trying to hurt you. - Yes, you are. You're trying to put me out of business. - You've tried for years. - I haven't, what.. When have I ever done anything to you? - You want to hurt me. - What? That's what these cameras are about. Cut your camera off, please, sir. We could see where they're putting the waste we could see the lagoon, we could see if it's overflowing we could see if it's running in the rivers and streams and where they're spraying, right? We could see all of that. The one thing we can't see is what's inside those buildings. That's the deep, dark secret of this industry. What is it that the industry is trying to hide inside? Is it suffering? When asked, the majority of people say that they object to animal cruelty and environmental degradation. You'd be hard-pressed to find any other issue on which so many people see eye to eye. And yet suffering and disregard for the environment has been built into the equation of cost and efficiency. They've calculated how close to death we can keep an animal without killing it. How close to destruction we can keep the environment without losing it altogether. It's an essential element for a system that delivers the cheap meat we've come to demand. Are we trying to hide it from ourselves? The public has a right to know the truth about the meat they eat about what this industry is doing to them. Okay, and then hit it again to turn it off. We process 19,000 hogs a day. Uh, so it's been five months since I started working at the plant. Whistleblowers in our society play a very important role. Corporations can't tolerate that so they pass these laws called Ag-Gag to shut us down. And in some states, if you take a photograph on a factory farm you could have committed a felony. Not a misdemeanor but a felony. I mean, it's ridiculous. My job primarily is I recruit. I look for people who are, for one, willing to go into these environments and work in them but also to do it successfully. Honestly, finding people who even want to do this job is challenging enough, let alone then breaking it down to people who are, who are gonna be good at it. To actually participate and be a part of this world maintaining your cover, and it's -- it's huge and you can't do that if you're just gonna stand there and watch. You have to do the job you're hired to do. There are many days where I would come back to my hotel. I'd wanna curl up in a ball and just not do anything, not write my field notes. I don't wanna relive the horrible day that I just had. I don't want anybody to know about what's going on inside those facilities. You can't do that. You can't shut down the individual's right to inform other people about what they know. I don't think that's constitutional. I have a right under the First amendment and Fourteenth amendment. Ag-Gag is the stupidest thing ag ever did. When that hit the editorial page of "The New York Times" it made ag just look like they had something to hide. Dumbest thing they could ever do. When you get bashed, you should be opening the door not shutting it. I have a saying. Heat softens steel. Undercover videos of really bad things that made the steel soft and then all of a sudden, industry started coming out with some good guidelines on animal handling. And they realized, yeah, we need to change things. Big is fragile, but has advantages. Economy of scale, cheap price. But it's fragile. We are approaching what was the notorious Westland/Hallmark slaughterhouse where they kill spent dairy cows and they're no longer considered to be profitable milking cows. We're just looking at what you're doing here. I guess is this a slaughterhouse? It's against federal law to have cameras? You'd give us a tour if we asked? - You would give us a tour -- - I sure won't know. But do you do tours of the place regularly? Is that something.. Really? Right, so these, right, right. - Okay. - Alright, we'll do that. In the 2000s, the Humane Society sent an investigator here to work at this place and documented horrible conditions with cows being pushed with forklifts with animals being horribly mistreated and this plant was sending these downed cows into the food supply. Ground beef from these diseased animals was going into the school lunch program. That was what was happening routinely here and that resulted in the largest beef recall in US history. You were established by Abraham Lincoln who called you The People's Department. But now your job is to protect industry from increasing public fears about everything from tainted meat to farm animal abuse. When your own dietary guideline committee cites health concerns and recommends Americans eat fewer animal products you ignore them and buy unwanted meat and cheese to feed our children through the federal school lunch program. While independent farmers struggle you spend millions on photos of celebrities with milk mustaches to prop up big ag. While thousands of Americans are hospitalized or dying from food poisoning you allow millions of pathogen-infected chickens to be sold with your approval every week. While people demand meat raised without antibiotics you ignore sound science and side with meat companies to continue putting drugs in animal feed. You silence the whistleblowers who do the job you were created to do. Your job is to guard the fox, not the henhouse. You are now known as the USDA. It doesn't look like the democracy that was around when I signed up for the Marine Corps 40 years ago. I swore to support and defend the Constitution of the United States against all enemies, foreign and domestic. I always wondered about the domestic part of that oath. What kind of a domestic enemy would I have to support the constitution against, you know? And then I got into this business and I see what these corporations are doing and the way this meat is being raised and, and then how they put money in the pockets of legislators. The USDA's been charged by the president to do a better job.. Every secretary of agriculture whether they're Republican, Democrat they learn on the first day that if the subsidies don't continue to flow if meat doesn't continue to be favored in diet guidelines you're gonna hear about it in the next election. [indistinct chatter] They pay the US Government enormous amounts of money to make sure that their products are front and center in what the government tells people to eat. There are plenty of things in his childhood and now his child's childhood that informed him that diary was a necessary part of a well-balance diet. But he had seen too much and for him it was no longer an issue of personal health. He's no longer blind to what goes into a glass of milk. What are you, what are you feeling for in there? The dairy cows are artificially inseminated. It's a bit jumpy, I think I would be if someone did that to me. He learned that immediately at their birth babies are separated from their mothers. The females will be sent into the dairy production cycle while the males are sent into crates for veal production or sold as beef. The cows' tails are sometimes docked for the benefit of the milker. The hybrid cow has been bred to maximize milk production yielding ten times the amount of standard cows. This can lead to mastitis of the udder or other painful infections. White blood cells, also known as pus accumulate and end up in our milk. They quibble back and forth over the suffering that goes into the glass of milk they serve their children. After that expose they tried to fire me but in the end, it was my tenure that kept me from getting fired. But on the other hand, I have to move to Lincoln. I mean, my family's gonna stay here. But what I didn't really plan for or expect were all the other negative things. The past five years have been really, really difficult. Really difficult. It's not the way I ever dreamed this time in my life would be, you know? And granted, it's for a good cause.. ...but.. ...I wish it were somehow done differently with -- with us on the radar. Sorry. He had this drive to do this and again, some good stuff has come out of it.. ...but also some not-so-good stuff. I mean.. ...all through the years, I've, um.. ...with kind of an absentee dad.. ...I played the role of both parents. It would be easier for me to fix the work side than the family side. You know, families, there's too much. All the emotional stuff that's involved in that and, um, being relocated to Lincoln and, you know, I don't want to go to Lincoln. Well, so here we sit. At Niman Ranch, we sell about 3000 pigs a week.. ...and the hog kill nationally is 400,000 a day. So 3000 a week, 400,000 a day. So we're still, in the big picture, small but the demand is there. One of the worst fears that people have if they live in the country is that somebody will build a confined animal feeding operation, uh, next door to you. The laws here allow those to be built within 1800 feet of your house. The neighbor down the road a piece of land was sold off by the farmer. It depends on which way the wind blows. There's a lot of odor that comes out of the buildings but each building holds about 2500 hogs in confined animal feeding operations. They're not really owned by the farmer. They're owned by a company. Then another neighbor he doesn't care whether he makes any money on the pigs. It's, he considers it a fertilizer plant. After a lifetime of raising pigs Paul decides to make some changes. He says raising hogs is a young man's game so last winter a farmer came and picked up the last of his pigs the same line he's had since the 1970s. Paul has become an increasingly rare breed. It is uncertain whether his now unique knowledge of raising hogs traditionally will find its way to a new generation of farmers. I have done everything to bring those birds into existence. I had their parents, their grandparents. I've gathered the eggs, I set the eggs I washed the eggs. I spent hours and days taking care of them as babies and months being with them in the pasture. Some of the lines I have here this truly is the last of them on Earth. I find my faith in doing what I do and the connection with the earth and with these animals a very religious experience. Holiness doesn't mean you do great things. It means you do small things with great love. When I was a kid, there was a true love of the aesthetics. I would go and I would visit the farmers that I knew and you would look out over the field and you would see a flock of Barred Rocks or you would see a flock of Bourbon Red turkeys. They would truly love the beauty of what they saw of what they were doing. That is gone today in farming. There's no way you could love an animal that has been genetically engineered to die in 6 weeks. I've come to learn why annually billions of birds are fed antibiotics. It's not that they're initially sick. It's so they can stand the filthy overcrowded conditions they're raised in. It's because their bodies have been modified to grow 4 times more quickly than they would naturally leading to diseases that make drugs essential. Nearly 80% of all antibiotics produced by the pharmaceutical industry are used for factory-farm animals. This constant flow of antibiotics is a vital artery of industrial farming as essential as air or water to the factory-farm system and it has led to the birth of so-called superbugs. These bugs are already mutating to bypass the antibiotics designed to kill them. Tens of thousands of Americans now die annually from ailments once easily treated. The CAFO system, it's like a petri dish for resistant bacteria and flu viruses as well. It's a system that is just ripe for creating disease. Birds and waterfowl, in particular are a melting pot for all these viruses. They come together, they mix and match. You can get H5N1, H1N7. What's changing things now is that the industrialized poultry industry is spreading across the world. So now we routinely raise birds in flocks of several million on a single site in close proximity and it's very easy to get a buildup of pathogens that will go through the entire house in a matter of hours. The risk then comes that these viruses jump into humans. And that's when you get a human pandemic and that's when we get worried about the likes of Spanish flu back in 1918. The 1918 pandemic was unlike most influenzas that attacked the weak. This one preyed on the young and healthy. The virus spread around the world traveling on boats that moved across the oceans. Estimates suggest that one-third of the world fell ill. 25 million died in a 25-week period. By now, the deadly strain of influenza had not disappeared from the planet even though it had largely disappeared from our minds. Where is the virus now? Is it en route on the wings of a bird? Imagine 2500 cesspools like that cooking in the hot summer sun in Eastern North Carolina and -- and if you don't expect something bad to come out of that well, I got a bridge to sell you. This is now some of the filthiest floodwater ever seen in this country. In the mix, millions of gallons of concentrated hog manure. Worried about disease state officials are shipping in portable incinerators. Sooner or later, it might be swine flu. It might be Avian flu. Something bad's gonna happen in America. Now I'm not a scientist, but it takes a idiot not to realize that that's gonna happen. That may be a rendering truck. We are creating the perfect storm. I mean, it's -- it's not if, it's when there's going to be another really dangerous flu virus. Frank's birds are outside, they're free-range they're exposed to the environment, to pathogens to wild fowl, et cetera, et cetera, from day 1. They've build up resistance. But we can't feed the world's population on chickens running around in a field. If we're gonna produce enough chickens to feed the world then we're gonna have to double from 50 billion to 100 billion a year unless we all turn vegetarians tomorrow. [speaking in Chinese] The combined population of India and China is approaching 3 billion people and every year, their diets look more and more like ours. The decisions they make will shape the world we all live in. When I think about the forces that shaped my life the most this place is a -- a very significant one to me. Got a couple in here. Hey, pups. I was taken by how similar animals in the barn and animals in our home were and had trouble making distinction between the two of them, in terms of which ones you would -- you treat as a pet which one you would -- you would take to slaughter. And I think that had a big impression on me in terms of what I'm doing today. The notion that you can't perfectly replicate animal protein with plant protein, I think, is wrong. The core parts of meat are everywhere. They're abundant in the plant kingdom and so why not take them directly from the plant kingdom run them through our process which is heating, cooling and pressure and create that piece of meat for the center of the plate? For most people to eat plant-based food you're gonna have to replicate meat and it's possible but it's up to companies like myself and to others to invest so that we really deliver on the promise. [indistinct chatter] We looked at over 3200 plants now. We've identified 11 and then we can use these plants to do a whole bunch of different things. We can use it as an ingredient to everything from binding a cookie to aerating to gelling in a pan like a scrambled egg. There's something amazing about plants and we can tap into 'em and we can use it. And I think there's a way to do it that preserves resources that, that promotes things we can all agree on. People are eating meat because it's delicious because the price points are good and because it's convenient. So people are not eating meat you know, because of how it's produced. They're eating meat despite how it's produced. Yes, people eat a lot of meat now. But once people are given 2 choices and one of them is healthier and environmentally sustainable and doesn't harm animals, and the other one is you know, what factory farming and slaughterhouses look like I think we're gonna see massive shift over to the plant-based technologies. In, uh, 1889 there was a story in "The New York Times" that said "Edison's gas light substitute is catching on." Electricity, you know, over 100 years ago was called a gas light substitute. When it becomes the easy thing, the affordable thing it's not a substitute any longer. It's just called electricity. One year after he lost half his flock at the slaughterhouse Frank is unsure if his poultry ranch will be able to survive. A friend and neighbor come to help try to balance Frank's ledger. Be careful. She just.. Yeah, I was gonna say don't do that! We're running these numbers. It'd be tough to do worse than we did last year with the slaughter problem, but looking at these numbers the changes you've made are clearly working. This is the 1st year you've made money on all of your hard work. It's kind of like now we have a foundation that we can actually take off from. I can't compete against the factory farm. I can't compete. It's not even my job. - It's not even my focus. - Right. My focus is in what I do. Ben brought some ladies here a while, a few weeks ago to visit and one of the questions she asked me, she says "Of all these birds and turkeys "which ones are the most important? Which ones do you wanna keep?" And I said, "That's like asking, you know.." Um.. [inhales deeply] [instrumental music] For 17 months, I was in work limbo. Eventually, the choice was either move to Lincoln or not have a job, so I guess it wasn't really a choice. [blender whirring] Connie and I.. It's not finalized yet, but we're getting divorced. Um.. Yeah, that was the biggest price.. ...out of all this. I hope that at some point Connie and I can become.. ...um, friends again. In the last 3 months, I've slowly become an activist. Working with the Humane Society. I guess it's the next logical step. Going from thinking and then whistleblowing and the next step, you have to take action. There's inherent cruelty in that system. I look back on it now and I say "How could I not see that?" Maybe it's like if you don't wear glasses and you can't see well, you put your glasses on and then, wow, there's a whole new world out there. Maybe it was sort of like that. I like my non-work activism much more than my job. I'm already much more comfortable in my own skin. [applause] I think if I had the choice to do it again I'd do it again. We thought we could simply go to the legislators of North Carolina and the governor and say "Look, here's the problem. We know what it is. The scientists are showin' it. It's documented. Let's fix it." Go to the forests and streams.. We were able to figure out where the pollution sources were comin' from. We were able to educate the public. We were able to educate the government. What we weren't able to do is to make somebody do somethin' about it. Alright, this one here at 3 o'clock. Here it is now, 20 years later and every one of those lagoons is still out there where they were. It's a problem not just for those of us out here who think this is a problem. It's a problem for our society, in general. It's the way we eat meat, the way we raise meat. It's the way we treat the animals. It's the way we impact the environment. It's health issues. It's how we're treating our communities. How we're treating the people that live in these areas who have no choice but to be here. It's just, uh, it's -- it's a sad situation all the way around. It's sad, but it's also infuriating and downright maddening at times that you have an industry that has that much of a stranglehold on this society. Come on, let's go! Come on! What time do you get off ballet tonight? - Around 6:00. - 6:00? Sometimes I -- I get fatigued. Are you still practicin' for "Nutcracker?" I'm up there now and my time is limited on this Earth. And sometimes I think that maybe the best thing to do is to just enjoy what's left. And then I think about my grandchildren. Uh, they got a whole lifetime ahead of 'em. There's enough left for me. There is. But is there enough left for my daughter and my grandchildren and my two great grandchildren? Is there enough left? Connecting. Okay, it is connecting now. There's gotta be a stop to this. There's gotta be a limit. That was slow. Duplin County traffic, skyline on the roll, runway 2-3. Duplin County, departing to the southeast. There's always gonna be people who are willing to stand up and tell the public about what's going on. I wanna hit Hookerton on the way back down to.. That's near Grifton, the Grifton Tower. People need to understand there are 2 sets of law that govern what we do on this planet. There's the laws of men and the laws of nature. The final word is gonna come from Mother Nature herself. The unfortunate part about that is it's gonna affect you and me just like it does all the bad actors. That -- That area around Goldsboro that's really flooded right now. If they pass a law that says it's a criminal offense for me to take a picture from a public highway or from an airplane then they're gonna have to lock me up. Somebody's gonna try to strip those rights away from me. It's gonna be, they're gonna have a fight on their hands. After the video release that Leah and I did I raised chickens for another year. I mean, there was nothin' more. I had nothing left with the business. So in January of 2016, I decided to, to cancel the contract and, uh, start life over at 50. Well, I just woke up one morning. I had my, my head, my hands like this and it's about, like, 3 o'clock in the morning and I'm just waiting for my wife to wake up and I look at her and I say, "Can I stop raisin' birds?" Um, and she said, "I told you that 2 years ago." It's scary. I have young kids and, and I'm not where I expected to be at 50 years old so there ain't a storybook ending. We're just gonna h -- hope we can find an ending where we land very softly. That shit runs downhill and I was at the bottom of the hill. [chuckles] It's good that I'm not beholden to Perdue Farms anymore. Having to raise their chickens while they're lookin' at me the whole time as an expendable resource and not a person and not an asset. When I was doing chickens under contract, I mean bottom line is, I was a homogenizing widgets. Is this farming? I say no. I don't want my kids involved in this method of raising food. There might be a heck of a past, but there's no future in it. Um, I don't see it gettin' any better. I see, um.. I -- If the world's appetite in meat grows and the -- and these, these companies keep expandin' like they are, um at some time, uh, some point in time it's gonna force our hand to change. They're talkin' about this Feed The World mantra. This is insane. We're not feeding the world now. We're not even feedin' everybody on this road. It's a defense for the system that's in place now. You're growing soy and wheat and corn and such a high percentage of that is just going back to feed animals. Uh, tillable acres. At some point in time, it's finite but it's not gonna be sustainable. At some point in time, you're gonna have to go for less meat consumption. You vote at least 3 times a day with your fork. I believe with, in all my heart, the future lies in diversifying farms. I believe you're gonna see more traditional-type livestock production. The -- The hogs on the pasture and the cows on the grass-fed and the, even the chickens on the pasture. That is like the new, that's -- that's like, um.. It's like back to the future is kind of where -- where where I think we're goin'. Without the diversification in the monoculture you're so dependent on those commodity prices that it's feast or famine. When you put all your eggs in one basket all your eggs are in one basket. You don't have anything to fall back on. I was fascinated by the question about what was here before we were raising 13 billion bushels of corn, you know? [chuckles] Iowa, it's actually the most altered landscape on Earth. 99.9% of the -- of the prairie is gone. And so the fascination with it kind of hooked me. So I planted this and never regretted it one second. It's 140 acres of restored and reconstructed tallgrass prairie. It's an oasis for wildlife, really. All kinds of mammals, badgers, foxes, skunks. And every time you go out there you'll see something different. The seed bank was there. I've never put a fish in any of the ponds yet there were 2 varieties of fish in the ponds. Well, this is the stuff that's been here for the last 10,000 years since the Wisconsin glacier came through. It just enriches a person's life in my estimation. Much more than another field of corn. There needs to be a place for farmers to come and relearn this again as we did years ago. I'm not sure that's easier to read though. - No, that's harder to read. - Yeah. - Really? - Yeah. I like it on the wall. This type of farming, this type of breeding is not taught anywhere anymore because all the land grant universities are controlled by the factory farms. 'Cause that's where the money is. It may take us a long time, but little bits at a time and this is what we're hoping. It's gonna be back a ways. I want a big enough space for busses to turn or whatever. If we're going to change something then we need to change the entire system. We cannot legislate nor pass laws nor fine the factory farm into compliance. It isn't gonna happen. The only way to replace this system is to replace it with something new and make it available to more and more people one farm at a time, one state at a time. This is my mission. And I'm sure I won't live to see what happens. When I told my mentor when he was dying that I would try not only to save the birds but to save the memory of those people. It is a love for the birds, but it's also a love for that whole personal system of people fighting to keep something alive to keep something going. [instrumental music] [instrumental music] |
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