[ low rumbling ]
What's wrong ?
I'm just tired,
I guess.
[ train whistles ]
Have you traveled far ?
Yeah.
You're a surfer,
aren't you ?
Yeah, I'm a surfer.
I always wanted to try that,
but you know, I just--
It seems like it would be
so much fun, you know ?
So healthy.
Yeah, it can be.
- Depends.
- On what ?
On whether or not
you make it your whole life.
Have you ?
I guess.
What would you say
if I told you that
there's a wave out there,
And by the time
it hits this little island
off of mexico...
It's gonna be massive ?
And all I can think about
is riding it.
[ vocalists,
african dialect ]
[ camera clicks ]
So you want to surf ?
And the waves near
the town where you live
aren't half bad.
And you start
to improve.
And then you hear
about this wave...
In a faraway country...
With a name you can't
even pronounce.
What then ?
How far are
you willing to go ?
What sacrifice
are you willing to make ?
How good do you
really want to be ?
[ camera clicks,
typewriter clatters ]
[ continues ]
Mm. Ow. Ow !
Ouch.
Man, this hurts.
[ camera clicks,
typewriter clatters ]
[ boy ]
aw, mickey. You promised.
Mm.
So beautiful.
Mickey.
So beautiful.
We're dead.
We are dead.
It's cool, don't worry about it.
I'm just teaching her english.
[ no dialogue ]
[ camel groaning ]
[ camera clicks,
typewriter clatters ]
I've been watching him ride
for four days now.
Having chronicled surfing
all my life, I'm convinced...
That he's one of those
rare athletes...
Whose spirit is as great
as their talent.
I'm also convinced that
he's preparing himself
for something extraordinary,
And if I can do anything
to help him, I will.
Hey ! Mickey's at it again.
He promised.
Says he's teaching her english
or something.
He's teaching her
something.
Ladies first.
- [ repeating ] ladies first.
How are you ?
How are you ?
I am fine.
I am fine.
Your eyes
are very beautiful.
Your eyes very beautiful.
And you're
so very handsome.
You're so very
handsome.
And so strong.
- And so strong.
Very good.
- Very good.
Now, if you really
want to learn english...
- [ "you don't know me" ]
- you listen to country music.
They tell it
like it is.
[ repeating lyrics ]
you give your hand to me.
You give your hand to me.
And then you say hello.
- You say hello.
and I can hardly speak
my heart is beating so
and anyone could tell
you think you know me well
but you don't know me
[ siren wailing ]
[ man speaking french
over loudspeaker ]
[ siren, loudspeaker
continuing ]
and longs to kiss your lips
and longs to hold you tight
Sounds like your daddy's here.
Sounds like your daddy's here.
Yep.
- Yep.
[ wild chattering ]
I'm really sorry, sir, but I
was just teaching her english.
[ camera clicks ]
[ bluesy jazz ]
There's a lot of girls
out there, mickey.
That's my point exactly.
You gotta pick the right one.
You gotta make 'em
come to you.
Otherwise, it's like
marlin fishing.
- What ?
- Marlin fishing, man.
You see a beautiful woman.
She's like a big game fish.
If you really want her,
you're gonna need a boat,
bait, tackle, gasoline.
You gotta get out
on the high seas.
And if you get a hookup--
if you get a hookup--
You gotta drag it all the way
back to the boat.
But I have a question for ya:
At that point, who's tired ?
- Who, you ?
- No, goddamn it,
the both of ya !
Beautiful women, you know what
I say to them ? I say,
"you may be a symphony, baby.
But I believe in song."
- I-I don't get it.
You get it ?
- Sometimes.
You all right ?
You gonna be all right ?
Yeah, I'm fine.
- [ blues, indistinct ]
- [ happy chattering ]
Hey, english !
Over here.
English. No tv,
you understand me ?
No shopping malls.
No tour buses.
You hear me, english ?
No fast foods.
Leave us alone !
because the nighttime
night and day
ah, is the right time
night and day
to be with the one you love
night and day
[ chattering in french ]
[ speaking french ]
Hey, are they
gonna execute us ?
I wasn't even
doin' anything !
Oh, man. I'm gonna have
a heart attack.
I'm full on gonna
have a heart attack !
Chin up, kid.
High tide raises
all ships.
[ keoni ] five more hours and
we would have been out of here.
Now we got nothin' !
[ mickey ]
what are you talkin' about ?
We got till ten.
[ keoni ]
we're never gonna
make that plane.
The harbor's
only a mile away.
We're in jail, mickey.
This ain't about
bein' caged, man.
I've seen birds in cages,
and you ain't no bird.
All right ?
Do you know that birds
are the direct descendants
of dinosaurs ?
They used to have teeth
and shit. Them guys was fast,
even the girl ones.
You know what "dinosaur"
means ? It's greek, man.
It means, "terrible lizard."
think about that.
[ tires squealing,
motor racing ]
[ keoni ]
hey ! That's my board !
What'll we do ?
Run like hell !
Come on, little girls,
don't run home
in your underwear !
Come back here !
I sense angels
at work here, boys.
There's
that taxi again !
[ horn beeping ]
Look out ! Hey !
[ continuing, indistinct ]
Charge !
[ keoni ]
hey, come on !
Pull me up !
- [ brakes squealing ]
- [ screaming ]
[ mickey ] look at that
stinkin' boat. It's the most
beautiful thing I've ever seen.
It's an epiphany.
Know what an epiphany is ?
[ keoni ] not now, mickey.
Can't you see ?
We're in trouble !
No tv ! No diet colas !
No shopping malls !
Do you hear me, cue ball ?
[ keoni ]
hey ! Hands off !
I said, leave
our women alone !
[ gulping, gasping ]
Come on, get over here !
This thing's gonna take off !
[ man ]
every sport has
its own mythology.
Its legends:
Joe louis, muhammad ali,
Over here.
Come on in !
Mickey mantle, babe ruth,
Michael jordan.
Faces you see
on television.
Surfing has
its own mythology too.
Most of it based
on what you never see.
Hang on, mickey.
Hang in there, buddy.
[ man ]
stories of great rides,
told over and over again...
Of unimaginable waves
in obscure, faraway places.
These are the people
who seek these moments out,
Traveling like spirits
from country to country.
- [ keoni ]
you okay ? Good, get in.
- [ mickey ] I'm okay.
[ airplane engine revving ]
ain't no rain or sunshine
I'm glory bound
get your hands up now
get glory bound
get your hands on now
get glory bound
get your hands on now
a song could do it
a song could do it, do it
glory bound
get your hands up now
ain't no foolin'
ain't no foolin'
come on around
ain't no foolin
ain't no foolin'
come on around
get your hands up now
singin'
[ man on megaphone,
indistinct ]
That son of a bitch.
I'll tell you about
that son of a bitch.
Before enlightenment,
chop wood, carry water.
After enlightenment,
chop wood, carry water.
Kissed by nature.
Not a bad guy to have
around...
When your back's up
against a wall, either.
I like you, mickey.
You're a good lad.
Well, thank you, captain.
That's a very nice thing
of you to say.
Straight flush.
I sure hope
this doesn't screw
things up between us.
[ raucous laughing ]
glory bound
get your hands on now
- Hey, keoni ! Happy birthday.
- Thanks.
Ah, it's
a good life.
gettin' glory bound
get your hands on now
song could do it
a song could do it, do it
glory bound
get your hands up now
ain't no foolin'
ain't no foolin'
come on around
ain't no foolin'
ain't no foolin'
come on around
[ electric drill whirring ]
This isn't just
a skateboard ramp, all right ?
We-- we build temples
to adrenaline.
This is like chinese
architecture, you know ?
'cause they didn't build
to the size of the human body.
They built temples to the size
of the human spirit.
I add some pain
I became your satellite
got to get it all right
psyched, I know
a man called sylvester
have to wear
a bulletproof vest, y'all
no kinda way
no kinda way at all
music myth
children learn
ride on
ride on
into the foam
into the foam
ride on
into the foam
hey
[ continues, indistinct ]
ride on
You know where
waves come from ?
Imagine
you're a giant...
Standing in the middle
of the bay of alaska.
You drop a boulder
in the water.
And the rings fan out.
The swells keep going until
something gets in their way:
An island, a continent,
A reef, something
that forces them to peak...
And break...
And roll.
That make
sense to you ?
Probably not.
If you understood what
I was saying, I probably
wouldn't be saying it.
Say a big swell hits Hawaii,
And you ride one of those
huge waves there.
The wave folds back
together on the other
side of the island,
And back out
across the ocean--
Like these rings--
to wherever it needs to go.
Then all you would
need to do to ride
it again...
Is find out where
it's headed next--
To beat it there...
However you can.
It's what
I've been doing.
I'm trying
to figure it out.
Why is it, when the waves
are just right,
When it's big enough
and hollow enough,
And I'm inside of it,
Everything--
whatever I'm doing,
Why I'm doin' it--
In that moment
it all makes sense ?
Most everybody wants
something else from it.
I'm afraid
if I ask for more,
it'll all disappear.
Hey, I'd be careful
if I were you.
I know you're
the captain's daughter and all.
We just got into a bunch
of trouble because of a woman.
- Scared me to death.
- You're very young.
Yeah. I am young.
Where's your home ?
I live with my friends.
Wherever the surf's good.
You know mickey ?
He used to be number two
in the world.
Pro tour and everything.
Could have been
number one, but--
I don't know. See him ?
He's the best in the world.
That's what mickey says.
That's what everybody says.
Won't compete
on the tour, though.
Don't know why.
Guess he doesn't
like hotel rooms
or something like that.
But... He's a hot surfer.
I guess that's all
that matters.
When I'm old enough,
I'm going on that tour...
And cashing in,
making a million bucks...
And buyin' my mom a house
and fixin' her teeth.
'cause everybody's got
to have beautiful teeth.
Even moms.
Do you know
that salt water...
Is the most closely
related to human blood ?
And you know what
that reminds me of ?
Our own essence, gentlemen.
[ vocalists,
african dialect ]
Lookin' sharp.
Lookin' sharp.
[ continues ]
[ fades, ends ]
She wants
to go with ya.
When my wife
was alive,
We found her
on the streets of rio
as a child.
I brought her on board
to save her life.
She recognizes herself
in ya. Same eyes.
Same heart.
Without lies.
Takin' only
what you need.
Givin' only
what you can.
She feels safe with ya,
Although she knows
she'll never stay
with ya forever.
[ loud cheering ]
[ shouting, jeering ]
Kick his ass !
Go to him,
go to him.
[ keoni ]
no, no. Go on, mickey.
Take this hippie.
Whaddya mean ?
I got him right
where I want him !
I got this fuckin' guy
right where I want him.
- Kick his ass !
- [ grunts ]
[ camera clicking ]
[ keoni ]
four and 0, four and 0.
Come on !
How much we bet ?
- All of it.
You lose, we don't eat.
I'm gonna
kick your butt.
A little hot sauce'll
fix this guy.
The old caliente.
Come on, mickey.
Now !
You enjoying
your visit to bali ?
Jet lag's
got me down a bit,
but I'll get used to it.
[ grunting ]
[ blues ]
[ camera clicking ]
baby, please
baby, please set a day
baby, please
baby, please set a day
please don't say tomorrow
Soon as my friends and I
get it together...
And all these people
move out of the way,
we're gonna move the car.
[ camera clicks,
typewriter clatters ]
Yeah, if I understood a word
you said, it would be helpful,
but obviously I don't.
Wyatt, my man !
Hey, nice to see you,
man. How you been ?
[ speaking
native language ]
no problem.
[ speaking native language ]
these guys are
friends of mine.
Mab.
- Hey, domo, man.
How's it, man ?
- Hey !
Good to see ya.
What's happening, rush ?
[ camera clicks,
typewriter clatters ]
Rush ! Brian !
Unreal, man.
Good to see ya.
Long time.
Wow.
[ typewriter clattering ]
baby, please
[ brian ]
gotta get back in shape.
It's been a long summer.
baby, please set a day
- I believe these belong to you.
- Keep them. You never know
when you might need them.
Who are you ?
- Just a fan.
[ laughs ]
What's up, darrick ?
I was hoping I'd get here
in time to train with you guys.
[ wyatt ]
there are only a handful
of surfers in the world...
With the courage and skill
to ride really big waves.
And here, in a marketplace
in bali,
On the other side
of the world,
He was about to become
one of them.
[ man's voice ]
some mornings, when I wake up,
Before my first cup of coffee,
i look in the mirror.
I think to myself,
is today the last day
I'm gonna be alive ?
'cause you never know
when you're gonna go.
When you come out of that wave,
if something goes wrong,
The jet ski is
your only salvation.
Jet skis, tow ropes.
You guys got equipment
on the brain.
I'm comin' to Hawaii
this winter,
and I'm gonna paddle...
Into one of those
40-foot sons of bitches
with my bare hands.
What are you talking about,
mickey ? There's no way you can
paddle in. It's just too big.
- It's just a wave, man.
- It's too fast.
- That is horseshit ! It's just a wave.
- You can't paddle 35 m.P.H.
It's just a wave, man.
A big mother of a wave, yes.
But it's just a wave !
You gotta be in the right place
at the right time !
Dream on.
Then why don't you tow me in ?
You, no problem.
For him ?
No way.
- And just why the hell not ?
- [ keoni ]
because, Mickey, you're crazy.
- Everybody knows that.
- Well, thank you, keoni.
I love you too.
But I will tell
you three guys one thing.
For us,
the partying's over.
Starting tomorrow,
we train all day, every day.
That's reality.
all around the world
Two... Three !
no one understands me
no one knows
what I'm tryin' to say
everywhere I go
no one understands me
they look at me
when I talk to them
and they scratch their heads
they go
what's he tryin' to say
oh, but you
you speak my language
but you
you speak my language
yeah
yeah
[ brian ] there are
two types of surfers that
we have to be concerned with...
In surfing waves
that actually kill you.
One is gung ho.
This guy does not
consider the risk.
The other guy
is gun shy.
He does not want
to accept the risk.
In this cage right here,
gun shy and gung ho,
One focuses
on his abilities,
And the other focuses
on his limitation.
Pete, what is
the worst-case scenario
you can think of ?
The worst-case scenario
I can see, if someone goes
down on a big wave,
And gets held under
or maybe shoved into a cave.
When the rescue team
goes in to get him,
they can't find him.
[ brian ] rush, what is
the worst-case scenario
in this extreme surf ?
I think, if you let go
of the rope too soon,
And you fade to the bottom
of the pit with no speed...
And the wave just comes
from behind and takes you out.
Gobbles you up.
Shane.
I think the worst-case scenario
would be...
To get sucked over the falls
on a really, really big wave,
And lose all your air on impact
and get sucked down really far;
Like, 30 or 40 feet deep,
you know, and you're
getting darker and darker,
And all the clouds
surrounding you,
Like you're just about
ready to black out...
And it's really loud
and dark.
I think that would be a really--
like a really bad scenario.
[ shane ]
how long have you lived here ?
[ wyatt ] forever.
Came here for the surf.
Couldn't see leaving.
I travel.
But I always come back.
You a writer ?
- Yup.
- Got a wife ?
- Mm-hmm.
Kids ?
- Yeah, three.
Girls.
- They surf ?
Of course.
The navy's got these things
called "rebreathers."
Put it in your mouth,
and it pulls all the oxygen
right out of the water.
Won't be long till
we stay down indefinitely.
Rebreathers, my ass.
Guys sound like
a bunch of astronauts.
Here's the news:
You guys don't tow me in,
I'm gonna paddle in.
You don't think I know
what I'm doing ? I was
number two in the world.
Full on, mickey,
number two, man.
Full on !
That was eight years ago.
Eight long years, bro.
Eight years ?
[ all, chanting ] eight years,
eight years, eight years !
Eight years, eight years--
eight years, my ass !
[ others, chuckling ]
eight years !
[ brian ]
the other thing that
we have to also understand...
Is that we can augment
our own abilities...
Through the technology
that we have.
But technology
isn't everything; you need
the speed, the strength,
To handle those kind
of poundings.
You need to be as quick
and agile to fly,
And you need to be
as flexible as you can be
to reduce injury.
As we all know,
when we surf big waves,
You can be held under
for more than one wave.
You can be held under
for a two-wave hold down.
You could even be
held under for three waves.
We understand the risk that's
involved. We know exactly
what we're up against.
We know exactly
what our bodies
are able to do.
Practice
extreme safety...
When we're doing
extreme things.
[ wyatt ]
technology is taking surfing
into another dimension,
Allowing a rider to match
the speed of a 50-foot wave,
Traveling at 35 miles per hour.
But the question is,
at what price ?
Will only the most skilled
stand a chance to survive ?
To ride waves this big...
Is to put yourself...
In god's hands.
[ indistinct chattering ]
[ chanting in
indonesian dialect ]
What's the matter ?
You all right ?
[ groaning ]
- side pain.
Can't breathe.
What's up ?
All right, keoni.
What is it ?
Take a deep breath.
Breathe. Relax.
Relax.
Okay, let's walk him home.
Get him up.
[ groaning ]
[ mickey ]
he's burnin' up.
Maybe malaria.
I'll be fine.
Hey, no matter what,
no hospitals, okay ?
'cause I hate doctors.
One time, my mom...
Had this skin disease.
It got really infected,
and we had to take her
to the hospital.
Stupid doctor gave her
all the wrong things.
[ sighs ]
ruined her teeth.
Ruined her hair.
She made her look all old.
My dad freaked.
Drove his truck right through
the doc's living room.
[ chuckles ]
right through
the picture window.
You'll be okay.
You're strong.
Strongest man on earth.
[ shane ]
what is this place ?
[ wyatt ] my home.
[ wyatt ]
there's this rock concert
once a year.
We get invaded for three days,
and then they'll all disappear.
[ rock, indistinct ]
Daddy !
- Daddy !
Daddy !
Daddy, daddy !
Daddy !
- Daddy !
Hello, girls.
Hi, daddy.
Hi, daddy.
Hi !
Look how big you are.
Oh, god, I missed you.
Wyatt !
[ chanting in balinese ]
[ chanting continues ]
[ keoni's heart beating ]
It's not like I'm dyin'
or anything, man.
I just got a temperature
or somethin'.
Everybody's got
a weak spot.
[ wyatt ]
help me get him to my house.
Serena's with him.
Hope it's not malaria.
[ man on loudspeaker ]
welcome travelers.
Time to rock.
Just remember,
for the next 72 hours,
We are guests
in another people's land.
So listen up.
There's trash cans
and port-a-potties galore.
I need graphite too.
So spend wisely,
and if you choose to partake,
For heaven's sakes,
be discreet.
And above all,
if you hit pay dirt,
share thy bounty.
[ female vocalist,
indistinct ]
[ playful screaming,
squealing ]
[ audience hooting,
whistling ]
[ gasping ]
[ wyatt ]
this is for you,
and this is for you.
- How come you're not over
there with your friends ?
- Too many people.
I know what you mean.
I want
to show you something.
All over the world,
people are returning
to their tribes.
I don't blame them.
Probably don't realize it,
but you and your friends
are part of a tribe.
You think ?
- It's a tribe built
on mutual respect...
And a common understanding
of what it takes
to do what we do.
Never really
thought of it that way.
What do you think
about riding waves that are
too big to paddle into ?
Do they frighten you ?
- Yeah.
What about
using a jet ski
to help you get in ?
That's one way, yeah.
Mickey thinks
they can be paddled into.
He hates jet skis.
He thinks it takes
the purity away.
What do you think ?
I haven't really
made my mind up yet.
dream through
a warning sign
It's morning.
The night is over.
numb your senses
listless sleep of dreams
Hey. You okay ?
[ continues,
indistinct ]
Rough night, huh ?
The guys are out there trainin'.
I gotta get out there.
You'll be all right.
They'll take care of you.
Need anything ?
[ ends ]
Oh, man !
Come on, mickey. Focus.
Focus.
- I got it.
[ darrick ]
wait for the whip.
Perfect. Perfect !
[ darrick ]
faster ! Faster !
This is wrong !
I got it !
I got it !
[ wyatt ] as I watched
them train today, I was filled
with a certain sadness.
[ typewriter clatters ]
so many people aspire
to greatness; so few succeed.
I could see the separation
happening before my eyes.
- Good !
- The big waves of hawaii
would be waiting for them.
A challenge to one,
A threat to the other.
It's gonna get worse
before it gets better.
I wish there was more
i could do.
You could talk to me.
I like it
when you talk to me.
Did you see me
out there today ?
I heard
it was brutal.
That's my point
exactly.
Shane got it.
You'll get it.
Takes time.
You were number two
in the world, mickey.
Yeah. I was.
[ pete ]
just got word from hawaii.
There's a huge swell coming in.
Huge.
- We'd love to hang with you guys,
but I think it's time to go.
[ darrick ]
might only get one shot
at a swell this big.
Well, we gotta hang around,
wait for the kid to get better.
Only take a couple of days.
[ clicks tongue ]
see ya in hawaii.
All right.
We'll pick it up
where we left off.
- Right on.
Hopefully, we'll get there
in time for the swell.
All right.
[ all muttering good-byes ]
Hey, take care
of the kid, huh ?
Yeah, no problem.
[ groaning ]
He ain't comin' in,
you know.
I know.
[ mickey ]
he's been preparin' to surf
big waves all his life.
But he'd never
leave the kid
while he was sick.
He's got a strange way
of showing his feelings.
You'll get used
to it.
- Hm.
To all my friends,
good evening.
[ crowd shouting ]
[ woman ] brothers and sisters,
i can't tell you how blessed we
are to have you here tonight...
At this musical carnival
of ours.
And I want you
to give it up for skull.
[ crowd cheering ]
[ male emcee ]
all the way
from stockholm, sweden !
Whoo !
[ male vocalist,
indistinct ]
chaos
it's a one-way ticket
to chaos
and I'll be on
chaos
it's a one-way ticket
to chaos
chaos
I want to be just like you.
But I don't tell you that.
[ crowd shouting ]
You're strong.
Strongest man
on earth.
[ chanting in balinese ]
[ chanting continues ]
I said shut up !
[ screaming ]
[ screaming ]
[ screaming ]
[ man whispering,
indistinct ]
Shut up !
[ whispering continues ]
[ whispering ]
leave me alone, alone, alone--
[ hard rock ]
[ screaming ]
[ woman vocalizing ]
[ monkeys chattering ]
[ screaming, crying ]
Why you fightin' with me ?
Let me go.
[ crying ]
It's okay.
You'll be okay.
You'll be okay.
It's over.
[ shane ]
keoni's not getting any better.
[ female vocalist,
indistinct ]
- I'm gonna take him home.
Get him to a doctor.
blow you and I away
I knew when I came
with you it wouldn't
be forever.
My father's boat's
coming back through.
I miss him.
when the earth below
shakes us from
each other's arms
- shane--
It's been
a beautiful journey.
I'll never forget you
forget who you are
i love you.
I'll stay alive
with the warmth
of your breath inside
I'll watch you fly
wipe the tears
from my eyes
[ man on radio ]
hawaiian national sea
and weather forecast...
For local coastal waters
reporting small craft and
shipping lanes stage five alert.
Small craft warnings
anticipated by 1800 hours.
[ continues, indistinct ]
I'm ready.
Fever's gone.
Let's go !
My point exactly.
[ man on radio ]
small craft and shipping lanes
stage five alert.
Does serena know
what I did ?
With the fire and all ?
Yeah.
[ male vocalist,
indistinct ]
Was she mad ?
No, she wasn't mad.
I really liked her.
lap up the rain
released from
all my sin
I run
you'll stay
[ radio chatter ]
was all-night surfer red
when I held you
that night
They beat us here.
[ mickey ]
of course they did.
You leave first,
you get there first.
[ continues ]
who's that guy
in the baseball cap ?
That's the wizard.
Mike stewart--
The only guy
with guts enough to ride
this place on a body board.
He's been mappin' the reef
all summer.
[ ends ]
It'll be here
by morning.
How big ?
Big.
[ group ]
merry, merry, merry
a merry, merry christmas
to you
[ singing in hawaiian ]
No hard feelings,
but, uh...
We took a vote.
I'm not towing you in.
Yeah, well, I'll be there
just the same.
I'm not towing you in.
[ chuckles ]
Yeah, I know.
You voted.
- Merry christmas, darrick.
- Mele kalikimaka to you too.
[ slaps buttocks ]
Looks like the kid's
feeling better.
- Yeah.
[ off-key ] she gave me
her number and her eyes
were as big as the moon
soon I know I'm gonna be
in her arms tonight
hugging and kissing
[ dog barks ]
What's going on ?
[ barking continues ]
- Uuh !
- Jesus, mickey ! What the--
- Stay out of this !
- What the hell's
wrong with you ?
Shut up !
You've been told !
All right,
so you ride one of those
big sons of bitches tomorrow.
Then what ?
What's it gonna prove ?
[ shane ] I've never
tried to prove anything
to anyone in my whole life.
[ mickey ] get out on the
pro tour and make some money !
Show people how good you are !
Calm down.
- Shut up !
You lose that step, man,
and it's gone.
[ snapping fingers ]
And it ain't comin' back.
You're gonna burn out.
People burn out.
[ cricket chirping ]
I'm paddling into
one of those bombs tomorrow.
I know you are.
I hate the stink
of those goddamn jet skis.
I know you do.
You think I'm nuts,
don't you ?
It can be done,
you know.
I know it can.
You just gotta catch it right.
You ever gonna tell me
what's on your mind ?
You ever gonna tell anybody
what's on your mind ?
Jesus.
I'm treatin' you
like a chick.
Line up with the palm tree
on the cliff.
Sit deep.
The wind comin' up the face
is gonna be like
nothing you ever felt.
This wave's an animal.
[ stewart ]
imagine 50 to 60
olympic-size swimming pools...
Converging all at once
on this reef shelf here.
It's about 30 feet deep
when it initially breaks...
And then it shallows out
to about 15 feet.
So there's a lot of intensity
and force coming in all at once.
[ male vocalist,
indistinct ]
get off of my porch
You're up first.
You're gonna run with it
a while outside.
I got the power.
Forty, fifty miles an hour.
I know it's gonna seem
like a long time, but wait--
wait for the whip.
Hey.
Where's mickey ?
Don't worry.
He'll be here.
I'm gonna get my pistol
and call out the dogs
I'm gonna get my razor
and feed you
to the hogs
[ stewart ]
the wave generally comes in
at a northwest direction,
Maybe 350 degrees
on the compass.
The waves surge
over the shelf
towards the beach.
So if you can make it
past the initial intensity
of that impact,
The rest of this current
should take you
over to the channel.
But you're gonna have
to hold your breath for
a good 80 yards underwater.
So we're gonna be
in the mach ten express ?
Mach ten express.
[ continues,
indistinct ]
If the guy wipes out on the
inside corner and gets dragged
underwater to the inside,
He's gonna get spit out
along the shoreline here...
Because the current comes in
parallel with the beach.
So watch here if you do get
caught in that inside section...
Because it can wash you
onto the rocks.
[ continues,
indistinct ]
I'm not goin' down
so easy
[ man on radio ]
what's mickey doing out here ?
How'd he get out here ?
Okay, guys.
You gotta make sure
he stays out of the way. Over.
Shane's up ! Shane's up !
[ ends ]
I'll be taking off
on a 30-foot wave, impacting
the water at such speed,
And hitting the bottom,
which is about 40 feet deep...
On jagged coral.
Then hoping you survive
if you're getting carried
all the way in.
It's possible.
[ male vocalist,
indistinct ]
When I was pinned
to the bottom--
i jumped off the bottom.
I couldn't get up.
It pinned me back down.
I started counting.
I got to 21 seconds before
i pushed off the bottom again.
Fortunately,
i saw a blue spot, and i
went through and I made it.
[ ends ]
[ man on radio ]
man down, man down !
Team one, team one.
- Go, go ! Do something !
- [ man ]
mayday ! We got a man down !
[ female vocalist,
indistinct ]
[ man #1 on radio ]
okay, we got a visual.
Let's go.
High speed, boys.
High-speed pickup. Over.
[ man #2 on radio ]
okay, wilford's got him.
He's on board.
[ man #1 ]
okay, boys, vacate.
Go back out in the channel.
[ keoni ]
what do you wanna do ?
[ shane ] go again.
You sure ?
- I'm sure.
[ male vocalist,
indistinct ]
when you see me
in the cage
you'll seek
you'll never find me
in a rage
[ continues,
indistinct ]
I don't care
I don't care
I don't care
That has to be the biggest wave
i ever saw in my whole life !
You're up.
Grab the rope.
I'll tow you in.
I can't.
I'm scared, man.
Everybody's scared.
I'm really scared.
What do you wanna do ?
How am I ever gonna
face that kid again ?
How am I ever gonna
face anybody again ?
It doesn't matter.
You just had a bad day.
Let it go.
Go tell the kid I'm cool--
That I'm just waiting
for the right one.
I know you are,
mickey.
It can be done, you know.
You can paddle
into these waves.
You could do it.
I'm waiting now
awaiting rebirth
craving it
in the darkness
ooh-ooh-ooh-ooh
What the hell's
going on out there ?
- He said he's just waiting
for the right one.
- beautiful
here
breathing in god
breathing in love
[ continues,
indistinct ]
Jesus, mary and joseph.
it's beautiful here
- there is safety right here
- mickey !
here
wonderful
seek care
you
[ holds note ]
feeling shame
[ continues,
indistinct ]
I'm born with you
here, the shame
Mickey, no !
Come on !
We got a man down.
Go ! Do something !
Get him ! Go !
Go, go ! Get him !
I have desire
for the world
and I have desire
for you
He's not comin' up !
what will I think
of this world
what will I do
in this world
will I be afraid
of this world
[ gasps ]
[ gasping ]
[ male vocalist,
indistinct ]
in a crowded world
you leave an empty house
I see you're lonely
so leave me alone
leave me alone
[ man singing
in hawaiian ]
The big waves of hawaii.
Until we ride,
we're just men...
Waiting for a train.
Mickey was right, you know.
I hate the sound
of those damn jet skis.
Me too.
My son ! Hi !
I love you, keoni.
I'm so sorry,
mrs. Mccormick.
I'm so sorry.
[ ends ]
[ female vocalist,
indistinct ]
What would you say
if I told you...
That there's
a wave out there,
And by the time it hits
this little island
off of mexico...
It's gonna be massive,
And all I can think about
is riding it ?
Then what ?
My point exactly.
[ chuckles ]
what's so funny ?
You ever had
one of those friends
where it doesn't even matter--
All you gotta do
is just think about him
and you smile ?
No.
That's too bad.
every chain
today
so I stay
[ continues,
indistinct ]
[ people chattering ]
vow never
ever again
[ gulls cawing ]
[ no dialogue ]
come on
dive right in
dive again
my old friend
your love
will let you in
but until
the light
it glows forever
I will be there too
[ gull cawing ]
[ speaking spanish ]
Muy peligroso.
Gracias.
[ wyatt's voice ]
so you wanna surf.
And the waves near the town
where you live aren't half bad.
And then you hear
about this wave...
In a faraway country...
With a name
you can't even pronounce.
What then ?
How far are you
willing to go ?
What sacrifice
are you willing to make ?
How good do you really
wanna be ?
heaven
savior of the whole world
heaven
love can make it
love can take it in
new moon in your star way
it's to light your way
you won't see the starlight
you won't see
the stars bright
it's a brand-new day
heaven
it's a brand-new day
it's a brand-new day
heaven
sing all over
the whole world
[ bird call ]
[ men chanting
in african dialect ]
[ chanting continues ]
it's a brand-new day
heaven
you believe in me
it's a brand-new day
heaven
you believe in me
it's a brand-new day
heaven
it's a brand-new day
it's a brand-new day
it's a brand-new day
heaven
it's a brand-new day
it's a brand-new day
it's a brand-new day
heaven
it's a brand-new day
heaven
you believe in me
it's a brand-new day
heaven
it's a brand-new day
heaven
it's a brand-new day
heaven
you believe in me
it's a brand-new day
heaven
you believe in me
it's a brand-new day
heaven
it's a brand-new day