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National Geographic: Beyond 2000 - The Explorers (1988)
Even as a little kid
I was always curious you know what was the next yard like what was it like on the next street over the next neighborhood the next town It just snowballs Ever since I was a kid I was interested in animals I really liked to get up close and personal with animals I was a little boy who grew up on the shore lines of San Diego I wanted to be Captain Nemo I wanted to command the Nautilus Growing up in a small town in Alabama I never thought that I would do this Just amazing I think there is in all human begins this essence of exploration this desire to explore We all have this hidden two-year-old in us that wants to just kind of reach up and really feel the world around us I really think that there are too many places to explore too many things to discover to sit around If it is easy it would have been done before I think there are plenty of places to explore A lot of those places are going to be the most difficult to sustain yourself There's so much of the planet that is unexplored that I can't imagine we're gonna be out of work any time soon July 16, 1969 Apollo Eleven escapes the earth's gravity and sets its course for the moon Our urge to explore has finally outgrown our small planet But as the people of the world look up the astronauts on board look back They marvel at earth It looks as strange as the place they're headed Below them is a planet still to be explored The spirit of exploration is as old as humanity itself Brave people have always ventured out into the darkness and come back to enlighten us And in the last century the pace of accomplishment has been astonishing Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay first to summit Mount Everest Robert Peary and Matthew Henson first to the North Pole Amelia Earhart? first woman to fly solo across the Atlantic That's one small step for man... And a thousand years from now they will still know the name Neil Armstrong But has everything been discovered? Is the age of exploration over? This is the story of ten explorers who believe that the spirit of exploration still thrives It is the story of what compels them to venture out time and again into the unknown Ian Baker believes that at the end of the millennium there are still places on earth that have never been named that have never been plotted on a map Somewhere in this vast Tibetan jungle he hopes to find a giant waterfall He's been searching for over a decade Ancient Buddhist prayer books hold that deep within a gorge is a cascade that shrouds the passageway to paradise I first heard about it from a very old lama who had spent much of his life meditating in these very remote valleys He had always told me the greatest of these was a place called Pemako in the far southeastern part of Tibet Baker made six expeditions in search of the falls He has never managed to reach them He is not the first to fail In 1924, British Botanist Frank Kingdon- Ward tried to find the falls only to be defeated by the terrain Where he failed Baker hopes to succeed He knows Kingdon-Ward was unable to descend the sheer cliffs along more than five miles of the gorge Could the falls be located in this unexplored area? Baker and his expedition partner Ken Storm, have won the trust of local hunters who will lead them down paths that no Westerner has ever followed The gorge is a treacherous place teeming with leeches stinging nettles and deadly snakes Why do people like Baker risk so much to explore the unknown? I don't feel that I'm different from anybody else in the sense that I think the spirit of exploration is intrinsic to human nature Exploration is really one of the very very few things that makes us human Once you get a taste of it you can't go back to the simple life I did become tensely irritated at the endless rain being soaking wet never drying out Leeches all over your legs and just scratch marks all over your bodies and face just because half the time you're moving up through a pathless terrain But I think anybody who's given to a life of exploration has to feel some sense of embrace of this kind of wild existence where, you know the comforts of the civilized world are suddenly stripped from us As a young boy, Baker loved adventure He yearned to be the youngest to reach the top of famous mountains And he drew pictures revealing dreams of mystical places places with hidden waterfalls My more recent explorations in the Himalayas have been in that sense a continuation of my earliest childhood activities which was really to explore the forests and marshes behind the house There is still a first out there for Baker to claim But reaching the great falls of the Tsang-po is an epic journey away Now that the weather is clearing a little bit we're going to try to make our way down into this unknown section And for 75 years it has been believed to be an impenetrable wilderness Ian Baker's expedition to find the falls has been slowed... ...to a mile a day In this terrain the difference between life and death can be a single careless step We had on previous expeditions seen from a long distance what appeared to be a waterfall But even when we were a thousand feet above it a year earlier we were still not able to determine whether in fact, this was the great falls of the Tsang-po that Kingdon-Ward had been looking for And there was the sense that unless you went down to the falls itself we would never be able to answer or resolve that question The jungle thickens The terrain gets even steeper Then, finally in the distance they hear the river falling All of the Tsang-po pouring into the energy Unbelievable A century of speculation is over They have filled in one of the last blank spots on the map These are, indeed, the great falls of the Tsang-po They name it the Hidden Falls of Dorje Phagmo? after the region's most powerful goddess What this discovery of the waterfall has done actually, is to evoke from people almost a subconscious need that we all have for magical places in the world for a sense that there are still places to be discovered I don't understand why people think that exploration is finished For me it's really just started I think there's plenty of places to explore A lot of those places are gonna be the most difficult places to really sustain yourself within and make a real contribution I love this expression: The last place on earth And that's what I'm really trying to bring back The best explorers have always brought back to us with their words with their pictures that last place on earth When the film Congorilla opened on Broadway in 1932, audiences flocked to the theater. Most people had never seen moving pictures of such exotic animals You are going to see and hear the first pictures in natural sound ever made in the jungles of Central Africa There will be the roar of the lion herds of elephants millions of flamingos and rivers alive with the vicious crocodiles The film was made by Martin Johnson and his wife, Osa In 1917, they quit the Vaudeville Circuit left their New York home and began two decades of exploring and filmmaking When they began shooting Congorilla in 1929 wildlife was so plentiful they needed only to drive into the bush and turn on their cameras. The abundance is long gone To capture what remains, it took National Geographic photographer Nick Nichols weeks of brutal trekking through the jungles of Central Africa I have no interest in wildlife photography for the sake of it It's just not justifiable in this time when we've got so many habitats and creatures that are endangered In our case, we're going out in an unexplored part of the African forest We really know what's out there but we want to come back and show everybody and say "Let's save it." The job that I do is considered one of the most romantic jobs on earth Everybody wants to do it But nobody sees it for what it really is being hot, insects diseases People see the glamour of the finished product or the glamour of the travel and they want to do it But they don't really want to do it Why do explorers subject themselves to such hardship? You've got to have something that drives you because you are getting into the suffering the hardships, being away from home So if you don't feel like you've got a mission I don't think you can put those feet in front of you when the going gets tough There's difficult cultures difficult political situations difficult physical circumstances and no guarantee of anything except that there's gonna be an endless number of hurdles that you're gonna have to pass over to pull something out and make it meaningful And that is enough to really deter any but the most hardened explorer There's fleas that burrow into your feet and lay eggs You gotta deal with those You may get 100 a night that you gotta deal with There's other animals that go into your privates and burrow away Shuffling in the mud, looking for animals There was heat and there is piranhas and there is caimans and there is crocodiles and killer bees Then there is the mosquitoes that bite you and cause all the different kinds of malaria Then there is flies biting that cause blindness and elephantitis It's just endless It's five a.m. and I'm going out to photograph in the fig tree that [Neil] just rigged a tree platform in I'm trying to get pictures of monkeys and birds which are real elusive I have no assurance that they'll be there I just hope so I studied art as a young man I was a painter and I wasn't very good at it As soon as I picked up a camera and took my first photographs when I was 18 in college I decided at that moment that's what I was gonna do There's something in nature that is out of our realm of control I'm not sure what it is It's an essence That's what I have been looking for all my life Who knows how to get a frog to stand up? It is this word "wild" which means not controlled What's behind that is trying to find an essence that I can't define but we all know what it is We all know that there's something edgy out there that keeps us whole because we come from wildness, too In 1997, when Nichols was photographing tigers in India his journey embodied the new creed of exploration Unlike earlier explorers he is not driven by a desire to return with animals in cages or trophy heads... but with pictures? pictures he hopes will save these animals from extinction When I see an elephant in a zoo or a tiger in a zoo I'm looking at a specimen If we had five gazillion tigers in zoos we have no tigers If they're not out walking around in the forest that forest is not even whole Tigers are part of the package, the chain A tiger won't pose while Nick snaps its portrait So his crew rigs intricate camera traps to capture a tiger's image They hope one of the big cats will trigger the motion-sensors on the cameras We're trying to find a way to take pictures of tigers on their terms. Actually, the tigers are taking their own pictures That's what it gets down to There's no humans here they come along whenever they want to We really wanted just to find a way to get into their world it's such a secret world Weeks pass? No tigers. Go in! Oh, my God, yes! Yes! C'mon! Go in! My mission is definitely to look at the earth as a finite thing and say let's celebrate this thing Let's find a way to realize that it's so precious and so fragile The new edge to exploration is that we must know how the planet works Like Nichols, Sylvia Earle is driven by the desire to preserve what she finds What drives me to explore? It's the need to understand what we're doing so that we perhaps might be able to do better in the future Earle is the Chuck Yeager of oceanography a pioneer of undersea exploration Five species of marine life have been named after her Earle was raised on a farm in New Jersey in a time when girls weren't expected go grow up and have professions, let alone become explorers. For me, my playground was the sea I knew from the moment I first saw a horseshoe crab sort of crawling up a beach in New Jersey that I had to know more about where it came from and how it lived and how it spent its days and nights And I've been intrigued with that ever since Seventy percent of the earth's surface is water but most of it remains as unexplored as the New World was to Columbus No place on the planet is more difficult to explore than the deep There's nothing more frustrating for a biologist a scientist such as I than to go down to 150 feet or even push the limits and go over to the edge of a drop-off into the sea and know that you just have to stop People have always dreamed of exploring the ocean But for centuries anything below a few hundred feet was impossible to reach... ...until William Beebe and Otis Barton invented the bathysphere a steel ball they hoped would take them a half-mile below the surface It took four years of testing before the bathysphere was ready Finally in 1934, Beebe and Barton jammed themselves in not knowing if it would be submarine or a coffin As they were slowly lowered into the depths the pressure built up to more than 1,300 pounds per square inch It was so cold, Beebe recalled it was like sitting on a cake of ice But they did it The bathysphere went a half-mile below the surface The record stood for Building on the accomplishments of Beebe and Barton Earle has pushed the limits of underwater exploration In 1979, untethered and alone she dove to over 1,200 feet It was as daring a feat as the early space walks Back in 1970, it was uncommon for women to do some of the sorts of things that I found myself hankering to do There were no women astronauts going to the moon In fact, there were no women astronauts at all at that point in time And aquanauts were also an iffy sort of enterprise Earle was one of five women selected to join a team of aquanauts who lived and studied in an underwater laboratory anchored in the Caribbean They called us aquabelles, they called us aquababes They had a hard time calling us aquanauts I didn't care what they called us as long as they let us go, and they did Earle has never let anything stop her Her passion for the ocean is too strong For me the lure of the deep is the lure of the unknown It's that curiosity that all children have but scientists never lose you just have to know what is going on In order to satisfy that curiosity Earle, like so many explorers is at the mercy of technology For years, she has teamed up with engineer Graham Hawkes. Together, they have helped revolutionize underwater exploration You know, it's said that there're more footprints on the moon than in the deep ocean That's kind of literally true Once you step foot in the oceans you are just back where early man was you're back looking at a piece of the planet no one's seen before When Earle and Hawkes conceived of deep flight a new fast-moving submarine they had to build it themselves There is no NASA of the deep seas You know, I was born to be an engineer looking back I grew up with the nickname professor I apparently was always taking things apart Numerous rockets, numerous experiments, numerous little explosions My parents were both from London My father was postman And the small part of London Tootting the wrong side of the railway tracks went to the wrong schools Hawkes was the first in his family to go to college Over the past 20 years he has become one of the leading inventors of submersibles Hawkes's and Earle's dream is to literally swim with the fish It's the counterpart of flying you fly into that other atmosphere There's this moment of discovery that this is not just water this is water filled with life There are jellies, there are fish, there are eyes all around There you go as an explorer not alone for a moment... not even for an instant are you alone Oh, my God, it's coming right at me Oh, my gosh Oh!? Just so close. He was just beautiful Funded in part by the National Geographic Society Earle is now diving in a remarkable new machine It is the tool for the next generation of deep sea exploration In July of 1969, four simple words expand forever the limits of human potential The eagle has landed The calmness of the voice masks the terror of the moment Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin have only seconds of fuel left when they land on the moon Armstrong's pulse races at 156 beats per minute That's one small step for man, one giant leap for mankind The triumph seemed complete but landing was the easier part NASA couldn't guarantee the safe return of the astronauts President Richard Nixon had prepared a eulogy in case the men were stranded on the moon's surface It read, in part: "These brave men know that there is no hope for their recovery But they also know that there is hope for mankind in their sacrifice." Our greatest achievements are often balanced on the edge of catastrophe For 20 years, Robert Peary and his expedition partner Matthew Henson, had been risking their lives to walk to the North Pole On the fourth expedition temperatures dropped to minus 63 degrees They were forced to eat their dogs for food But the men relentlessly advanced and on April 6, 1909, they became the first to stand at the top of the world "The Pole at last, Peary wrote in his journal "The prize of three centuries Mine at last." As much as Peary and Henson dreamed of the North Pole and Armstrong the moon explorers have dreamed of climbing the world's highest mountain For decades, the slopes of Everest had claimed the life of one climber after another Then, in 1953... Mount Everest has been conquered by members of the British expedition ...Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary overcame the cold and the thin air to stand on the summit of Everest No one else will ever be able to claim the title: "First to the roof of the world." The drive to explore endures But have today's explorers been born too late? I'd love to have been an explorer in an earlier era where I could have been the first man to cross the Congo or the first man to penetrate the heart of Australia or climb Everest It would have been wonderful Exploration a century ago was about assigning names to places and I think it's become more about assigning meaning You really have to push yourself to the edge That's why it hasn't been done before I mean, if it was easy, it would have been done before An explorer is someone who pursues the epic journey a person who has a dream who prepares to fulfill that dream assembles a team, goes out into the ocean overcomes the tests of the mind and the heart attains the truth and returns to society to share the truth That's the epic journey and that's what the explorer does Deep sea explorer, Bob Ballard has spent a career in search of tragedy and disaster For years, he longed to find the Titanic It was the most elegant luxury liner of its time Titanic was built to last forever On April 10, 1912, she set sail on her maiden voyage Five days later she disappeared into the cold waters of the North Atlantic More than 1,500 perished People believed the ship was gone forever and that Ballard's quest to find her was futile But he proved them wrong In 13,000 feet of water, Ballard found the Titanic He made history come to life People could see the past floating before them a romantic era stolen away by an iceberg and now returned I don't go to sea unless I am really convinced I can succeed I have decided not to do a lot of expeditions People say, "Why don't you find Amelia Earhart's airplane?" Fat chance. I won't take on a job unless I have a good shot at it Ballard did not stop with the Titanic He found the Nazi battleship Bismarck... ...explored the torpedoed luxury liner Lusitania... Contact. That's a ship It's definitely you My only love ...and located the aircraft carrier Yorktown sunk in the World War II battle of Midway I have little boys come up to me and say they wish I would stop exploring because there isn't going to be anything left for them And I try to remind them that I've only seen one-tenth of one percent of the deep ocean so there's plenty there This time, Ballard is exploring further back in time than he has ever gone before... two thousand years ago when Roman ships criss-crossed the Mediterranean They were small vessels at the mercy of the sea Many of them never made it home To help him find the sunken ships Ballard has enlisted the help of a Navy submarine The NR-1 was used during the Cold War for missions so secret the Navy still won't talk about them Now the sub is hunting for a Roman galley that sank to the ocean floor Captain, ship's fit for dive You have permission to submerge ship Dive! Dive! For hundreds of years scientists have looked in the ocean for our history And for most of that time they've only been able to look a very short distance And what we're trying to accomplish is something that has never been done before and that is to try and excavate a ship of antiquity that is thousands of feet beneath the sea The NR-1 hits thick mud The sub's arm is unable to dig below the surface Do the wooden hulls of Roman vessels still exist just beyond reach or has time stolen them away? Will this be Ballard's first failure? You can be lucky, but you work for it You know, you cannot just go and dig and discover something No! You have to stay day and night and work very hard And luck will come to you And that's why luck cannot come to a lazy explorer Like Robert Ballard, Egyptologist Zahi Hawass is an explorer of deep time He has spent a career searching the sands of the Giza Plateau One of his most remarkable finds began with an accident when a horse, galloping past his excavation site plunged its hoof through the sand Below lay a vaulted tomb, sealed in the time of the pharaohs Inside, Hawass glimpsed eternity Because of the size of the tomb because of the unique shape of the vaulted ceiling and also because it was cased inside with plaster then I believe this is the man who was in charge of the whole administration of the workmen This is the man who wanted to be sure that all these people live in a good living and they go early in the morning to work and they come by the sunset and they live in the village, and at the same time when they die, there is a tomb for everyone Besides the foreman's tomb Hawass and his crews unearthed more than an entire cemetery of workers For centuries, the pyramid builders were thought to be slaves a captive labor force cringing under the whip This discovery shattered that myth For explorers like Hawass the possibilities of discovery seem limitless The sands of the desert are constantly shifting Artifacts, hidden from one generation of archeologists can suddenly be revealed to the next In 1998, a team under Hawass's supervision made a startling find: A tomb, unseen untouched for thousands of years It is beautiful, the painting is so beautiful It is very rare We discover a lot of things every day, everywhere in Egypt But everything, almost 99 percent of what we discover, is robbed This is unique, and this is rare, because of one thing: This is intact Beneath a limestone lid, they discover a sarcophagus This is wonderful The symbol of resurrection Under the glare of television lights they struggle to remove the heavy lid Have the contents inside decayed and rotted? They crane forward, peer inside and a gift from the first millennium B.C.: a mummy dressed in a shroud of bead work portraying the gods of the afterlife Hieroglyphs around the coffin tell a story from the final glory days of ancient Egypt. Buried here is a nobleman, a member of the pharaoh's court His name was Lufaa He is the director of the palace He was near to the king The king lives in the palace This is the man that is used everyday to know the throne is fine your majesty The ladies, or the wife, your main wife she's not coming today to see you You can meet this official today the dining room is set, wine is there we will make the party tonight That is the man that does all the arrangements at the palace He makes the palace life Hawass's explorations have given us a more detailed picture of the past of who we are and where we come from An explorer is someone's who trying to find answers to basic truths I think all of us want to know those answers Certainly, we want to know who we are and where we came from and where we're going And I think most people think about those questions but very few of them spend a career trying to find answers to those things For weeks, Robert Ballard has been searching for history in the depths of the Mediterranean He has not been able to find the Roman ships he believes sank in these waters He cannot afford to fail A single expedition can cost millions of dollars Hold shipwreck Holy mackerel At last... Look at that! ...3,000 feet beneath the waves... fragile amphora... jugs that held wine dried fish and olive oil Instead of finding the amphora sort of randomly scattered throughout this area they are, in fact, concentrated in very narrow lines one amphora after another, hundreds of them As Ballard and the captain of the NR-1 plot the find the final tragic moments for the Roman ship are revealed It must have been caught in a fierce storm They began to off-load their cargo as fast as they could throwing the amphoras off one side of the ship and off of the other This is probably the width of the ship the separation between these two rows Two miles of amphoras were being thrown over the side until finally the ship went under and ultimately sank here Ballard deploys a scavenger sub named Jason to bring the 2,000-year-old artifacts to the surface Robert Ballard has proven that we can dive into the deepest oceans and resurrect the sunken stories of the past The key is that you plug away you slug away, you slug away and then there's this moment of discovery And it's so exhilarating It's just the greatest natural high known to a human race And once you've experienced that you want to experience it again There is so much of the planet that's unexplored that I can't imagine we're going to be out of work anytime soon Exploration really has that element of discovering something new You make it a discipline to observe to document, to record what you see The old style of explorer it was about conquering something about, you know, putting your flag on it about getting control, to be the master of I think the real difference between adventure and exploration is that exploration is adventure with a purpose Michael Davie is just starting to explore our world In 1997, at the age of 22 he trekked from Cape Town, South Africa, to Cairo Egypt a 5,000-mile journey that took him seven months Davie uses a video camera to explore more than geography he explores culture and people His journey epitomizes the explorer within us all Do you think life here in Botswana is difficult? Yes Why? There are no jobs But your future, does your future look good? Yes, I think so Peter Pan was my hero, you know I wanted to live a Peter Pan existence I wanted to fly away to Never-Never Land and run wild with the Lost Boys You know, I think it's every kid's dream to get out there and bash his way through the jungle and have wild adventures and extreme encounters and get himself into as much trouble as possible And now I get paid to do that which is the greatest privilege of my life Man, this place is just amazing, just amazing An explorer is somebody who has to look deeper into things than things were looked into before It's about going into territory which geographically has been explored before but emotionally perhaps has not Mozambique at last I just hope I don't step on any land mines Red danger sign Danger! Mines! What kind of damage could a mine like this do? Take off a lower leg or take off a limb It's primarily a weapon that's designed to maim rather than kill, although there's every chance in the world that it would kill a small child or an elderly person One of the most inspiring people I've ever met in my life was a five-year-old girl named Isabel She was a land mine victim living in Mozambique And I think I forgot that I had the camera in my hand and suddenly I was looking at a five-year-old girl fighting to learn to walk again That was an incredibly potent and emotional moment for me and I don't think it's one that I will ever forget When I turned 21, my parents and I were on a camping trip and we were sitting around the campfire And we decided to count the number of times we'd moved in my 21 years And we had moved home And at that point I realized that although I wanted to become an explorer of some kind I had already spent my entire life doing that Danger certainly adds an element of spice to what I do and I love that I love the sense that there's something at stake Today is a hell of a lot tougher than yesterday was and it's been quite scary, actually We've been surrounded by a forest fire I need the adrenaline, yeah, I mean otherwise I'd still be at law school studying contracts Hello What's the problem? I don't have to quote this camera I know my rights I think the first time I got into real trouble I wasn't enjoying it all I was absolutely terrified But once I saw myself get through that situation I think that's probably when the addiction kicked in Okay, well you don't have to hassle me all the time I know I'm foolish and I know I'm reckless sometimes But, you know there is a certain amount of appeal in riding that edge You can't really understand life or appreciate it or understand it or the scope of it until you've flirted with death a little but understood the other side Exploration is often a solitary venture a journey to understand yourself and your place in the world Heidi Howkins craves dangerous places For her, risking death on a thin cornice of snow is how she explores life Who could have guessed that this little girl would grow up to be a high altitude mountaineer? There was one influence in her life that might have given you a clue? her father She describes him as an eccentric fitness fanatic He passed along his passion for ultra-long distance races But Howkins quickly got bored She wanted something more For me, those are just physical challenges They're not mental challenges Yes, sure, you get to the point where to continue running after 24 hours you've got to have some kind of mental urge But it's, there's no danger There's no risks, there's no fears But risk and fear are at the core of mountaineering While an earlier generation of climbers would have been satisfied with conquering one world-class peak in a year Howkins hopes to conquer two: Everest and K2 without the aid of supplemental oxygen It really doesn't matter that I'm female when I'm up there What matters is that I'm a good climber And that's a great feeling That's something that definitely gives me a charge It'd be nice to share that with other women It's just that there aren't that many of us My legs are saying, "No more up!" Howkins knows all too well that once she sets foot on a mountain she puts her life in peril While climbing Kanchenjunga in 1997 she was struck by a massive avalanche Although buried in deep snow she found the strength to claw her way to the surface In 1998, her expedition was hit by another avalanche The slabs of snow missed her but she was helpless as members of her team were swept away Two were killed Despite the danger Howkins returns year after year to these mountains You have to confront your own mortality like that every day on an expedition if not every hour, or every minute It becomes something that you know sort of like your fingers and your toes You're certain that it's there and you're fully aware of it You're catapulted into a totally different realm when you're facing that fear that terror, that mystery, the unknown Why do climbers like Howkins scour the earth for extreme vertical places? Why do they eagerly seek out life on the edge? Why do I do this if it's so cold and so uncomfortable and scary? Because I don't want life to be easy You know, I find greater meaning in my life when I go out and struggle to get something I want On Baffin Island, 300 miles north of the Arctic Circle there is a wall of granite more than twice as high as the Empire State building It's not the world's highest, it's hardly even famous But no one has climbed it For four world class climbers that's an irresistible challenge I think, to me personally true adventure requires an uncertain outcome It's gotta have this big question mark hanging over it It's probably the hardest piece of big wall climbing that I've done Maybe that's what it's all about pushing yourself so far out there that you can't really turn around You have to keep going Basically, a trip like this is a journey It's a journey of exploration into a beautiful wilderness like Baffin Island I don't have a death wish, I have a life wish And these trips bring you closer to life than anything I can imagine Howkins's journey is becoming increasingly difficult She is approaching the death zone Above 26,000 feet the air is so thin that the brain is deprived of oxygen It becomes hard to think straight Every fiber in your body is telling you to stop to sit down, to die, essentially You've moved beyond your survival instinct There has to be something beyond reason that's pushing you to continue moving especially to continue climbing up Howkins isn't the first woman to try climbing both Everest and K2 in a single year In 1995, Alison Hargreaves had successfully climbed Everest and had reached the summit of K2 But on her descent she was caught in a storm and died on the mountain Howkins herself is in trouble Illness and weather stop her ascent I can't describe how I really feel right now without using four-letter words I mean, I'm like, I've got a fever I'm sitting at 21,000 feet I slept for about one hour last night and the other 11 hours I hacked up all kinds of lung gunk I've got bronchitis or something She is forced to admit defeat give up the summit, and descend To deny that the summit is important isn't what I'm trying to do It's just that it's not as important as the way in which I climb The journey that happens on the way to the summit is more important It sounds clich, but it's true It's not whether you reach the summit, it's how It's not what you do it's how you do it that matters The best explorers are always imagining the next journey, the next goal But what are the personal costs of such relentless? I'm on the road a lot It's very difficult to develop roots to put out roots in any one community because I'm not here for enough of the year to really get to know people I regret that I didn't have more time with my children when they were young because I chose to go out on expedition The negative side is obviously being away from home I love my family And I love land I think the most important thing I've learned about exploring the ocean is how much I love land You know, I have absolutely no regrets about it Whatever one might conventionally see as a sacrifice is not a sacrifice and that it really entails not seeking out security above all else I think my biggest sacrifices are the fact that I'm going to die real young because I've just been worn out from these tropical diseases That's my biggest sacrifice The Llanos, wild heart of Venezuela For the early explorers who dared enter this untamed place no creature loomed larger than South America's giant serpent... Look out, Jimmy! Hold the head, hold it! Explorers spun tales of intent on human flesh Jim is black in the face, almost done for Exploration now is very different than it used to be Early explorers would go and conquering things conquering people, many times even destroying the things that they were exploring Exploration now has a much more respectful meaning and taste to it A barefoot explorer, Jesus Rivas is hunting the anaconda not for sport, but to understand this mysterious beast Rivas explores a dangerous landscape for the anaconda rules this swamp with lethal efficiency It's meal of choice is the capybara a giant rodent that can weigh in at over 140 pounds The snake kills with power, not poison It wraps its coils so tightly around the capybara that the animal cannot breathe so tightly that its blood can no longer circulate It will take the snake six hours to ingest this meal The anaconda is strong enough to overwhelm and kill a person Rivas, however, is obsessed with getting as close as he can to these creatures There's no telling how many hours of fruitless sun I got on my head and after six, eight hours looking for a snake in the swamp and nothing happens But if you're stubborn enough and if you go for it and you try and try and eventually you accomplish it The time comes when you step on something and your foot bounces back and there's this big animal underneath you Hurry, hurry Are you losing your grip? In a second, I will Oh, it's a big mama Come here and get a better grip It is a wonderful animal It is an animal that, if anything has to inspire admiration and awe more than any other thing Godzilla!? We are having a ball, aren't we? Rivas and his wife, biologist Rene Owens have captured and studied more than 800 snakes Their exploration funded in part by the National Geographic Society is a first People ask me why it has not been studied before And the reason is that I don't think anybody thought it was possible You can't find them, they are too hard to get around we can't subdue them they are a very hard animal to study and that is why they haven't been studied Wait, wait, wait here To crack the code of this strange beast Rivas searches for breeding balls massive coils of mating snakes He plants radio transmitters to track potential mothers Ever since I was a kid, I always loved the wild I had this urge of going out into the wild into the forest, into the sea, into the ocean into whatever was a good natural habitat Oh, you want to kiss me, don't you? I'm not your lover My mother, when I was a kid, called, had this word for me It was "pata caliente" which means hot feet because she couldn't stop me from going out and looking for interesting things to do Okay, I'm gonna pull the whole thing to see what's going on Rivas and Owens have struck anaconda gold a breeding ball This is their Everest, their North Pole To reproduce, as many as a dozen male anacondas will wrap themselves around a single female Rivas and Owens have just begun to unravel the secrets of this communal mating ritual The first time I laid hands on an anaconda it was a large female next to a bridge it was a massive animal When I put my hands around it and couldn't grip it my fingers could feel just pure muscle It was unbelievable It was the thing that really hooked me about the animal Nice female It's beautiful Look at those colors Out there, somewhere in the swamp Rivas believes there are giant anacondas beasts of monstrous proportions He dreams of discovering such a serpent one day I've thought a lot about what to do if I found this animal that is too big for me to catch but is too big for me to let it go I don't know what I'll do It will be some tough fight I don't know who's gonna win They're all my family Rivas is following in the footsteps of a noble tradition of naturalist as explorer... ...people like Charles Darwin who set sail to the Galapagos Islands and saw birds in a whole new way He returned to England with the theory of evolution... ...or Jane Goodall who lived for decades in the African wilderness and with a patient gaze explored the world and the mind of the chimpanzee She has revolutionized our understanding of animals She witnessed chimps doing things no one had seen before like making tools Her explorations have shown us how closely connected we are to the natural world Since Goodall began her studies 40 years ago the world's population has nearly doubled Blink and wild habitat vanishes Explorers, like herpetologist Brady Barr must act as emergency room surgeons and move quickly to save endangered species I would give anything to go back in time and see what the planet was like when it was more in balance before there were so many humans on the planet Something's wrong with the Everglades It's an ecosystem in peril It's dying And the alligator is a crucial component in that ecosystem In the Everglades, the 'gators breed less frequently their growth is stunted To find out why he's exploring the belly of the beast, literally You have to know what's important in the alligator's diet before you can get a handle on the bigger picture you know, what's really happening with these alligators out here To investigate their culinary habits Brady must first find and catch one of these swamp dwellers; no easy task Scary situations are just part of the job just the nature of the situation and what I do and where I go If you're gonna work on something that can eat you or bite you and kill you I mean that's just there's no way to get away from the danger It's just a part of the business Right there! Okay, try to keep the light right on it I'm gonna try to move up to it Oh yeah, I got him, I got him See that? Okay, now are you ready to give it a try? Now, when I tell you to move move fast Okay! It's always a little nerve-racking to tape the jaws up This alligator's not that big I've always been fascinated with alligators even as a small child But I grew up in the cornfields of southern Indiana There weren't many alligators there I went to graduate school in south Florida where there were a lot of alligators And I saw these large carnivores living in close contact with humans His explorations are proving that this close contact is toxic for the alligator Alligators in the Everglades grow very, very slowly A seven-foot animal 100 miles north of here on Lake Okeechobee might be eight years old A seven-foot alligator here in the Everglades this alligator? might be Maybe it's mercury poisoning maybe it's quality of the diet That's what we're looking into Maybe it's pollution Changes in hydrology have changed what the alligator is eating It's a complicated picture and, you know hopefully we'll shed a little light on it with this stomach content data We're going to put this garden hose into the mouth of the alligator down into the stomach fill it with water and then May Lynn's going to give it the Heimlich maneuver just like a choking person Hit it hard. Everything you got I'm gonna pull the hose this time One, two, three, go! I didn't feel anything come out Look at this There's a seven-foot alligator and here's the contents of its stomach One snail with the tissue still attached And here is two, three remains of four snails Before we started this research people said, "Oh, alligators eat birds and fish and you know, pull down deer." We're finding they eat a lot of snakes and believe it or not, they also eat snails That's how these alligators are making a living out here in the Everglades It's a tough place to live If I was an alligator I wouldn't want to live in the Everglades Paul Sereno is famous one of the most famous bone hunters in the world Just 41 years old he's already made more significant discoveries than most paleontologists make in a lifetime Time and again Sereno has headed out into the unknown and come back with the bones of dinosaurs that no one has seen before For Sereno, 1,000 years is a blip in time His finds allow us to imagine history on a geological scale history that is more than How many chances do you have to make a mark in the world to change the way we look at a continent the way the world was With one expedition we really have the chance And the only way that we can do that is really, by performing beyond what we think we can do This time Sereno is on an expedition deep into the Sahara It's a harsh landscape Sand storms, relentless heat and gun-toting bandits will make the next four months a brutal experience Paleontology often finds the most remote places because they are places that are raw earth places difficult to live in places often unexplored And the more unexplored the better the better chance you have of finding something that nobody's ever seen before Just getting to the fossil beds is a grueling cross-country road trip The journey is not just arduous it's potentially lethal A civil war in this area ended recently Travelers were killed on this road the week before I have told you that we might require an armed guard before we left I didn't know the details of it I didn't know what happened last week That was in the future then We have items that people want items that they have killed people for It's a personal risk going out there There's no question about it If something happens or if people feel that whatever their obligations are whatever their personal feelings are that they've reached that point and want to go back I don't blame anybody for that circumstance I will help you leave, you know, in a timely fashion It's the classic explorer's dilemma: How much are you willing to risk to achieve your goal? Are you willing to risk your life? Although the team will need armed guards no one abandons the expedition no one wants to pass up the chance of making a major find After five days and 14 flat tires they finally reach their destination Okay, show me the money Where're the bones? Although the world Sereno explores vanished millions of years ago it still lives in his imagination You've got to look at something that doesn't look like a lake and imagine back to what it was like as a lake What this little fragment here is telling you is that there were fish there There were trees This was an area where there was a chance that your prize possession a dinosaur or a crocodile or whatever you're looking for could have gotten buried there I think I inspire in part by example in the field I wouldn't ask anybody to do anything that I wouldn't be doing myself I can take the heat so I'll work right through the middle of the day at 120 degrees out on the site the bone actually reaching really, really hot I really find that exploring back in time is one of the most fulfilling things because it forces you to imagine And at first, imagination sounds unscientific After all, we're observers of hard evidence But, in fact, imagination is what I think is the essence of science Dig by dig, explorers like Sereno have transformed pure imagination into scientific fact The team has been working in heat often over And beneath tons of rock... a revelation. We have a couple of skeletons mixed at this site That's a conclusion we've drawn after a lot of work What we discovered when we first started peeling back the mound here is the hip region and back bone of a very large sauropod Here's the vertebrae here Sereno thinks the animals were the victims of a huge flood The surging water piled their multi-ton bodies in a stack and the river sediment buried their bones Although the sauropods are a significant find, Sereno is not satisfied He sets out deeper into the desert in search of more bones Go this way? Okay, go this way. As hard-working and focused as he is now it wasn't always the case As a child, he broke school windows with rocks and even tried to derail trains The one thing that kept him on track was bones He's been fascinated with them since childhood At the new site, the team can't contain their excitement There are bones everywhere We've got an aranosaurus We got therasaur You've got a sauropod, and a therapod Five minutes They can leave their pick axes in the truck Fossils are scattered around on the surface of the desert No one has been here to scavenge the bones Wow! Look at those ribs! Beautiful! Bone by bone they uncover a predator some kind of high-spined dinosaur with a toothy jaw Yeah, this is a piece of aranosaurus And then Sereno and his team make another stunning discovery Wow, this is great, Dave That's a big ass claw! It's a foot-long thumb claw just laying there on the surface Anybody would have stopped to pick it up but no one was there That's a particularly exciting moment sort of a chilling feeling that reveals that there are many many places on the surface of the earth that have not been investigated And it's just the beginning Bones of the animal have been preserved in the sand and rock Sereno thinks they have discovered a new species of spinosaur Not until they haul over four tons of bones back to the lab will they know for sure The expedition is over but the journey of discovery has just begun Over the next year in this basement laboratory at the University of Chicago Sereno's team will painstakingly reconstruct the animal I had a vision of something I would like, I think to see this animal down low up front as if it were almost fishing with its hand you know, with the claws ready to grab something It's just like you say, to some extent interacting with something it's looking, it's ready to go after something We are literally resurrecting a world that once existed When we set foot in Africa, in the desert there wasn't one skeleton or skull that was known well enough to reconstruct from the whole Cretaceous period That's the last half of dinosaur evolution We now can stand among six or seven of our recreations Wow! That is really big For the first time in 100 million years the spinosaur stands It gives the public a sense of a lost world a time without humans, something that's foreign, strange... a time when there were animals that weren't like us where we didn't influence and control the world like we do today That's critical, I think for understanding and also preserving our future The beast is 11 feet tall And from the tip of its tail to its fang-filled snout it measures more than I think there is a point in an expedition when you feel like "We've done it!" Unconsciously, you realize there's tension that's gone a tension that drove you to spend months organizing and energizing a team to be able to accomplish that But there is a thrilling point when you say "We've done it again," and you can walk out thinking we have made a difference In the face of such discoveries how can we say that exploration is finished that it has all been done? There are places on the planet that we still haven't seen There are ocean depths we haven't been to There are species yet to be discovered And there's always something new on the horizon We can never know everything To be an explorer today is to face the greatest era of exploration ever It's just beginning We're just beginning to open the doors to see how many more there are out there I think the ultimate goal really is not to ever fall into some false complacency and think that we've made whatever discoveries there are to be made and that we our whole life, continue to be this sense of informed by this spirit of discovery and exploration On the cusp of a new millennium we can pause and look back at what we have accomplished Exploration has remade how we see our planet But true explorers will never be satisfied with what they see now They will continue to rush head-long into the future ...pushing the limits of mind and body whether they are diving into the deepest oceans uncovering artifacts of antiquity or saving the habitats of endangered species Our limits will become the next generation's triumphs One of these children might walk on the surface of Mars Another might explore and solve the riddle of human consciousness The only guarantee is that in every generation there will be a daring few who continue to dream to be restless, and who are willing to risk it all to explore the unknown |
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