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National Geographic: Love Those Trains (1991)
Sometimes is has seemed
that railroads were doomed. The Durango-Silverton railroad is one of the most spectacular rides in the world. In 1960, it was nearly shut down. In 1883, the Orient Express ran from Paris to Istanbul created the ultimate in luxury travel. It was abandoned in 1977. In 1887, rotary snow plows first fought the snow drifts in the High Sierras. Looking like relics they seem improbable holdovers from the past. Once this streamlined locomotive hauled passenger trains at 100 miles an hour. But for 20 years, it sat outside a museum, its machinery rusting. Yet today these trains still run the rails. Now they evoke a more remote past when trains first bridged the continent, Ferried recruits to war provided celebrities with an opportunity to be seen and a chic way to travel, gave a mobile campaign platform to politicians, and offered a refuge for hoboes. Train tracks disfigure the countryside Trains assault the senses with brutal noise and begrime the air. How then account for the multitude of people who love trains? When you're actually running a train, you just can't get enough. I don't know. Maybe I'm just a junkie for trains. But that's about it. I bought a caboose back in the '50s because I was busy riding trains in the '50s. And suddenly I read in the paper one day where trains were going to go out. All passenger trains would be taken off. And I knew unless I got a piece of ride on the train again. So that's when I bought my caboose and put it in my yard. There are grown men who ride toy steam trains at a mountain retreat. There are train buffs who choose to ride through South America's Andes on a baggage rack. There's town in Iowa that honors hoboes, and there are thousands of young people competing for the chance to engineer a train. There are people who harken to the lonesome whistle blowing and the clickety-clack of wheels on rails. Theirs is a worldwide fraternity with no membership requirements beyond sharing in the love of trains. You've got a sheet like this and it tells you who's sitting in every seat, and every seat is assigned, and... There are many people so enamored of trains that they take trains, not to go anywhere, but just for the pleasure of riding. Each year the North Alabama Railroad Club sponsors an all-day excursion on a Norfolk Southern steam train. Seats are always sold out and there's even competition for a chance to work on the engine. Bill Hayslip is a deputy sheriff, and he loves trains so much that he volunteers on his day off for the dirtiest job in railroading-apprentice fireman. I've studied steam engines just about all my life. I guess I was born about There's something about a steam locomotive and railroad that's just romantic. A steam engine kind of has its own personality. It's like a lady. You have to treat it just right. Steam engines evoke a special affection. Though inanimate objects of iron and steel, they seem to breathe with the fire of life. This day the train will run to Chattanooga, Tennessee, evoking cherished memories of a popular song. I've often wondered if I was maybe one of those people that had trains in my bolld or something. Some people have alcohol, I have trains. I have spent the whole day in Birmingham just to see the two trains go through town. My wife thins that's crazy, but, you know, it's a thrill for me. Part way through the trip, the train comes to a stop in an open field. Now begins the prized ritual of the steam train excursion. The train backs up, cameras are readied, and then a sweet symphony for every train-buff's ear. The train station in Chattanooga has been transformed into an entertainment center. When the train returns to Huntsville, Dr. and Mrs. Lonie Lindsey stay on in Chattanooga for dinner in a refurbished diner. They remember another train trip long ago. We got on the train in Tuscumbia, Alabama and we went to Chattanooga. Went up to the courthouse and we got married. That was 55 years ago, and we've had a very lovely marriage so far. And here 55 years later, we do the same start-over again. The most popular rooms at the Choo-Choo Hilton Hotel are old train cars, Nostalgic setting for recapturing fond memories. For those who love to ride steam trains, each trip is a journey into the past. In the beginning, steam engines were at the center of the Industrial Revolution which could not even begin until mankind learned one crucial trick how to transform heat energy into motion. In the first century A.D., the Greek scholar, Hero of Alexandria, invented steam-jet propulsion. Hero's ingenious device remained a toy until 1712 when Thomas Newcomen developed the first successful steam engine Newcomen's engine was used to pump water out of coal mines. One hundred years passed before the first British-built steam locomotives took to the rails. Soon the public everywhere crossed the threshold of a new age as horses were replaced by the latest locomotive invention. Today, these early engines can usually be seen only at museums, where they seem as distant as dinosaurs. The John Bull is the oldest operable steam engine in the world. To mark the 150th anniversary of its first American trial, the Smithsonian Institution brought it out for a run along the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal. People who love trains dressed up for the occasion and gathered from miles around. Many had never heard the hoot of a steam whistle or the screech of brakes. Nostalgia for those seemingly innocent days of American history is very much alive today. For some, no doubt, steam engines are the attraction. For others, perhaps, it is the appeal of travel. Or could it be that so many share the romantic notion of growing up to be an engineer? These trains are called live steamers. Seymour Johnson loves trains so much that he donated land and equipment for a miniature railroad at his home in Montecito, California. I think in my case and in the case of a lot of people, you kind of grew up with them as toys and these are pretty big toys. I started building this particular engine in 1947 and I completed it in 1951. And that's why I have the numbers on the side-4751-to remind me of the time. Johnson and the local members of the Goleta Valley Railroad Club spent 17 years building their line. Today they test their engines on more than a mile of track. There is something nostalgic about steam engines now, of course, but the thing is, a steam locomotive is live. The engine talks to you when you're running it. You can feel what it's doing. It tells you I'm working too hard or I'm taking it easy. You can hear it in the stack, you can hear it in the sound of the blower, the sound of the fire. They've got steam engines that are over a hundred years old that continue to run. Once a year, Johnson and the club host a three-day meet that attracts model owners from all over the country. Each engine is custom-built, representing thousands of hours of meticulous machining. And as in real life, the engineers discover that steam engines can be cantankerous beasts capable of fighting back. Well, this is a 21/2-inch scale, narrow gauge locomotive built to run on 71/2-inch track. We're trying to duplicate exactly the kind of engine that the Colorado & Southern used back in the years of 1890 through 1936. Hey, John, you want to push the daylight car into the siding? The most popular daily event is the grand tour of the line for families and friends. Three engines are coupled. Together they are pulling six tons of engines, cars, and passengers. We now have 14 cars. Mostly they're freight-car type because people are way out of scale. This train is one-eighth full size, but people aren't. So if you put them in a passenger car, you can't put a roof on. But if you put them in a freight car, the sky is the limit. Many of those who build and enjoy riding live steamers can still recall the old days when steam engines ruled the rails. The halcyon days of steam and rail began after World War 1. The Big Boy of the 1940s was driven by four pistons that powered 16 drive wheels. It was the largest steam engine ever built, and could pull a train five miles long And during World War II, steam engines transporting the freight, weapons, and troops to the seacoasts, made possible the fast buildup of America's war machine. In the 1950s, steam gave way to diesel and rail companies, competing for passengers promoted streamliners as the chic way to travel. But late in the decade, passengers shifted to automobiles and airplanes for long-distance travel and trucks took over much of the freight. The low point came in the 1970s. congress rescued six bankrupt railroad by creating Conrail. Railroad lines were abandoned, and hundreds of stations closed for good. Although Americans seemed to lose interest in passenger train travel, some countries maintained their trains as national treasures. The narrow-gauge Guayaquil and Quito Railway in Ecuador plays a vital part in national life, and people here use the railroad like a party line. It even serves as a food market on wheels. Train buff and writer Carla Hunt has traveled throughout South America on trains. The Guayaquil-to-Quito run draws her back as the most exciting in South America. A train buff's dream an American-built Baldwin engine- a relic from 1900-begins a two-day climb from sea level to over 11,000 feet in the Andes. Passengers have a choice of three classes. Second class costs a dollar sixty. First-class cars sport padded seats for two dollars ten cents, and local vendors offer lunch on brown paper. The affluent, who ride deluxe, get reserved seats and meal service. But some prefer the roof where conductors seldom collect tickets. American engineers laid out the route in 1898. It took ten years to cut the line from the sugar cane fields of the lowlands up over the Andes. When the train going up fails to meet the train coming down at the appointed siding, there's an unscheduled stop for a phone call to find out what happened to the other train. These trains, not only do they carry the people up and down, but they carry the mail. Every once in a while you see them with a medical prescription, a telex that might have come into Guayaquil but can't make it up between the two points. There is a telex facility at Tiobamba. But between here and Riobamba there is absolutely nothing. The train that's coming from Riobama has a problem in Huigra. One of the wheels of the machine was falling down off the track. And now we are going with this train to help the other train. So, back to Huigra. Ah, fantastico. Derailments are common, but the speeds are slow and the accidents usually minor. As a bonus, amateur supervisors get a chance to see how, with a minimum of equipment, a derailed car can be coaxed back onto its track. After a change of engines, the train climbs into the mountains once again. In the early days of the American west railroad builders often resorted to zigzagging switchbacks to gain altitude. On this line, a famous switchback is still in use. The train has proceeded as far as it can up the valley. Now it switches to another track, and backs up the side of Devil's Nose, giving passengers on the rear platform a front-end view. The train backs around the mountain, then switches again to climb higher. Going forward again, the train has climbed of the mountain. At the end of the first day, the train stops at Riobamba. For Carla Hunt, a visit to the market is a fascinating feature of the trip. People come from miles around to sell and buy. You see things in this market you won't see anywhere else in Latin America. But more than anything else, I like to wander around and look at all those beautiful faces. From Riobamba to Quito, the train is really a bus on rails. There are seats inside, but for hardy train buffs like Carla Hunt, there is a much more exciting vantage point. The place I like to ride is up on the luggage rack on top. That's the best sightseeing seat in South America. To go through the mountains and to climb over the two ranges of the Andes to go through the beautiful upland villages with all the wild changes of weather on route, there's nothing in the world like it. Clouds shroud the peaks of the Andes as the line climbs high through cuts in the mountains and then descends to Ecuador's capital, the Spanish colonial city of Quito, to bring to an end one of the world's most extraordinary train ride In the United States, another spectacular train ride inspired one train buff to take dramatic action. The line from Durango to Silverton, Colorado was threatened with abandonment in 1960. Charles Bradshaw Jr., Florida citrus grower, rescued it in 1981. Like many a town in the old West, Durango was created by a railroad. The Denver & Rio Grande chose the site laid out the streets, and sold lots around the depot. Young people, who share Bradshaw's enthusiasm for trains, keep it running I love it. I really love it. I go home and tell my husband, I learned all kinds of new things today. I would like to be an engineer very much. You have to go through all the training, which is pretty physical for a girl and then you have to also a fireman, which shovel six ton of coal a day. I wouldn't want to get out of my limit I don't think that's right. My father and my grandfather and my great-grandfather were all railroaders before me. They worked for the Rio Grand. Not this particular branch. I'm the first one in the family to work for this branch of the railroad. None of them were conductors. They were all in different parts of the railroad, so I'm the first conductor in the family. They have to be pretty responsible people. They can't be irresponsible at all. Aren't you pretty young to be an engineer? I hear that about 30 times a day. If I couldn't handle the job, I wouldn't be here. Silverton is only 45 miles from Durango, but to get there, the train must climb almost 3,000 feet In the 1870s, huge discoveries of ore were made in the mountains surrounding Silverton but there was no economical way to get the ore out. The railroad made the mines profitable The ore is now removed by truck. The traffic has changed, but the town still prospers-mining tourist dollars. All aboard. As soon as the route was completed, the drama of the train's traverse of the Animas River Canyon was recognized as one of the great sights of American railroading. In the early 1880s, photographer William Henry Jackson lowered himself into the canyon to take this picture, published in Harper's Weekly magazine. Today's passengers can still enjoy the same spectacle. The ride is potentially just as dangerous now as it was then. A derailment could topple the cars 200 feet into the gorge. An extraordinary train run has been preserved because of the dedication of one man and the delight that more than 100,000 people a year take in supporting the line. Boston has its marathon; New Orleans its Mardi Gras. Britt, Iowa honors hoboes. Once a year, this small town invites hoboes from all over the country to drop by for a visit. The get-together largely attracts those who have retired from actively riding the rails and can now look back on their former rag-tag wanderings with nostalgia. Hoboes were not always so honored. Hoboing began during hard times after the Civil War. And in the Great Depression, the desperate once again took to the rails. Sometimes railroad police threw them off moving trains. Others jumped rather than face the reception they received when caught crossing state lines. If we are to protect the public of Southern California from the indigent transient class. They are coming here at this time, not for the purpose of securing work, but for the purpose of living on relief, stealing, or begging. Where is your home? Chicago. You ride a freight all the way from Chicago? Yes, sir. Well, you can ride, 'em back too, or any way you can to get back. We're going to see you over the state line. Don't come back to California until you can come in like a man. Hobo camps are called jungles, and life in them has always been hard. But in Britt, Iowa the jungle is a place to renew friendships and swap stories. ...in '78 Yes, yes. Yeah, I remember you. My memory that bad? Now wait a minute! Every year you get older, you have a special privilege. Every year you will get a little bit better at forgetting. Yes. I am there already. Hoboes are known most often by their nicknames. "Steamtrain" was first elected hobo king in 1973. Now we got a young goat here, and it's going to be some pretty tender eating when we get him all browned up here. Yes, sir. We'll have some of the best music and some of the best food you'll ever sit down to. Time has reversed these hoboes' roles once they were outcasts. Now Britt youngsters look up to them as knights of the open road who seem to have lived in a mythological age. That's my name, see. That's your name? Well, this is mine. Mountain Dew. I was talking to the hoboqueen and she says, Would you like to be a hobo? and I said, "Sure." And I go, How do you be a hobo? and she said-well, she pulled out this kind of perfume stuff, whatever it is-and she goes, I acquire you prince, a hobo price. And she put some on my forehead. So I'm a hobo prince. And my name is "Beer-Belly Bob." I started out when I was about 16, and had 12 years on and off, different places. Working irrigation ditches up in Washington, or cutting pulp wood in New York, dong lifeguard work down in Miami Beach, working in a gypsum plant in Yuma, Arizona, washing dishes in California You know, different stuff like that. Working in the coal mines, but they gave me a day shift. When I went in, it was dark and when I come out, it was dark, and I worked there two weeks. I told them when they put windows in there, I'd come back to work. How long did you hobo? From when to when? About, let's see, 1931 to '38. Something like that. What's the satisfaction? Of being free. Being free. In other words, not having to account to anybody for your actions. As the sun sets, the hoboes gather around a fire, and balladeers recall the hard days of depression times. ...my wandering. Ashes to ashes, dust to dust, If the railroad doesn't get you, then the bread lines must, And it looks like I'm never going to cease my wandering. When most railroad buffs think of trains, they think of passenger trains. But many of those most devoted to trains have found their life work with the railroads. Whether they maintain the racks or work on the trains themselves, the big business for them is freight, moving everything from coal to lettuce. And although much of the public thinks railroads are a dying industry, in fact they are thriving. Deregulation has permitted them to abandon money-losing lines, and new techniques, like piggyback hauling of truck trailers and containers, attract new customers. The mass-market shipping of fresh produce by rail enables farmers in California to sell lettuce to buyers Lettuce harvesting has become an assembly-line operation- cutter, packer, sprayer, box-closer. Today's lettuce that we've got is probably the best we've had in about a week and a half. It's 54 to 55 pounds absolutely clean. Derek Derdivanis is Sales Manager of the Admiral Packing Company in Salinas. He sells lettuce by the carload to buyers all over the country. Just call us back with that order, will you? You know. The one you got in your back pocket. A refrigerator car holds 30,000 heads of lettuce. This one is bound east for New York City. The morning after the lettuce is picked, the Admiral lettuce car has been joined to a 50-car train called the "Salad Bowl Express." Five Southern Pacific engines are needed to pull the train over a 7,000-foot-high pass in the Sierra Nevada mountains. The route climbs toward Donner Pass. On average, and avalanches have obstructed travelers as long as the pass has been used. In November 1846, blizzards trapped the emigrant Donner party here. Thirty-five died of starvation and exposure. Some survivors resorted to cannibalism. In the spring of 1982, ten feet of snow fell in 12 days in the High Sierras. Southern Pacific stopped all trains across Donner Pass. Diverting traffic cost $100,000 a day. Snow fighters tried to keep the lines open with spreaders-snow plows that push the huge drifts to the side. But when the snow drifts too deep, spreaders stall and the pushing wings collapse. The nerve center of the railroad's fight is a community of houses and offices connected by tunnels so buried in snow that it is call "Mole Town." Here a hundred men and women work day and night. Norden operator. Everything's in the clear on the Number Two? How about the rotary? Rotary's in the clear on the Number Two... Management calls for its ultimate snow-fighting machines-rotary plows that can dig through almost any accumulation of snow. ...that engine's being held right now. The rotary is going on down to the other end of the siding. Throwing five tons of snow a minute, the rotary can literally dig a trench deeper than itself. As one rotary chews toward the top of the pass from the west, another struggles up from the east. The first train comes through. Beyond the Sierras, the "Salad Bowl Express" drops into the desert, and a new crew takes over. On the long, straight runs, there's time for shared stories and for trainmen to enjoy the camaraderie which is part of the attraction they feel for their work. I don't think it's dawned on me yet that I've had a kid. I'm still in shock from it. Went in Sunday night. Had it Monday morning. Last couple of days have been pretty busy for me. I was lucky. Generally the railroad doesn't allow you to be in town. They keep you away from home quite often. So I was pretty lucky to be home when it happened. In 1950, I was on a high-speed perishables train, and a passenger train come out of a side track in front of us. We hit him head on about 52 mile an hour. The engineer on the other train was killed. I'm very lucky to be here. Now that scared me. By evening, the train is in eastern Nevada. The next morning, now with a Union Pacific engine and crew, the "Salad Bowl Express" climbs toward the Continental Divide. Around a curve, Castle Rock, a well-known American landmark, comes into view. The famous photographer A.J. Russell captured this same scene when the transcontinental railroad was nearing completion. In 1867, it took three months to cross by wagon from the railheads on the Missouri River to the Pacific Coast. The new rail line cut that time to less than a week. Irish immigrants living in railroad car dormitories built west. Chinese coolies built east. It was the most dramatic engineering accomplishment of the century. Gorges were spanned, mountains cut through or tunneled under. An army of workers fought summer heart and winter snow at a cost of uncounted lives. There were no movie cameras to record the great undertaking, but once movies were invented, filmmakers recreated the drama in classic films; John Ford's the Iron Horse and Cecil B. DeMille's Union Pacific. Crossing the mountains, the deserts, and plains, Fighting the heat, the cold, and the rain, Summer to autumn, winter to spring, Bring 'em up, lay 'em down, make the hammers ring, Building a new road under the wheel, Bind up the earth in iron and steel, Working east, working west, we're building our way, On bad food, hard liquor, and a dollar a day. It was a day of national celebration when the two lines met at Promontory, Utah. A.J. Russell recorded the scene in what is perhaps the most famous photograph in American history. And in 1924, when John Ford recreated the scene for his film, he based the action on the photographer to pose the crowd. The joining of America's East and West by rail is even more important today. The "Salad Bowl Express" is only one of 60 to 70 trains a day moving across the nation on this one line. Now, near the end of its second day, the "Salad Bowl Express" comes under the traffic control of dispatchers at North Platte, Nebraska. Here three men per shift control every train on the 245 miles of track diagrammed on the walls. They decide which trains get priority on the lines. The "Salad Bowl Express" is rushed along. Midnight. The "Salad Bowl Express" arrives at North Platte. Some cars will be sent south and eastward on other lines. Other cars will be added. The freight cars are pushed up a hump and separated. Gravity powers them down the slope. The tracks divide again and again. Automatic sensors weigh the cars and retarders brake them. There are 221 miles of track in the yard. And as many as 5,000 freight cars at a time. By 4 a.m., a new train has been made up, a new crew comes aboard, and the train moves on. In the afternoon, the train crosses the Missouri River. Operated now by Chicago and North Western railroad, it traverses the rich farmlands of Iowa. The next morning, the train is in Chicago. Marshaling yards like this one are dangerous places. You have to watch for cars coming from both directions. There could be debris sticking out of the car. Try not go get caught in a situation where you have trains moving at high speed in both directions on each side of you. If you do have a tendency to feel dizzy, lay down on the ground. You could reel under the car. Despite railroad emphasis on safety, there is an average of 15 deaths and 6,700 injuries to American rail-yard workers each year. Danger for railroaders comes not only from the trains themselves. In the early days, desperadoes like Jesse James, Butch Cassidy, and the Sundance kid held up trains in the lonely plains and mountains of the West. Today, trains are most often attacked as they pass through depressed areas We had one conductor-they got him with a gun and robbed him at Park Manor. It's just a few things that we go through out here. Everybody thinks we've got such a swell job. We have our ups and downs, too. This is our most dangerous spot of the trip. They put different articles on the tracks to derail us. They put old truck tires so they'll break the air hoses in two. They'll throw beer bottles, anything they can get their hands on. We've been shot at. They shot at me five times through the caboose windows. I've got pictures of the holes. It was either a.38 or a.45 because it put big holes. Sometimes they do it to rob the train. They break us in two to rob us, so they can take things off of us. On the cabooses they have... No, I know all about it. He's going to throw. No, he's not either. Oh, we go through this every day. It's nothing new to us. The many dedicated man and women who are drawn to railroad work also live with the danger that goes with the job. The "Salad Bowl Express" rolls through the heartland of the industrial Middle West. On the fifth morning, the train parallels the Mohawk River. Now under Conrail control, it follows the same route taken in 1825 by the Erie Canal. Early on the sixth morning, the "Salad Bowl Express" arrives at its destination in the Bronx. Ten carloads of produce are unloaded at Hunts Point Terminal each day. The carload of lettuce from Salinas has been bought by the Armata family, wholesalers who in turn sell to markets and restaurants. Beautiful box of lettuce. As my father would say, It talks to you. As soon as you open up the box... It has been seven days since the lettuce was picked. It took four railroads and the involvement of 1,000 men and women to move it across the country. Half a million people work for the railroads in the United States. In one sense, theirs is just a job, but it is an essential job, moving the grain, steel, coal, automobiles, perishables-even the lettuce for a PTA luncheon in Baldwin, Long Island. Traditionally, little boys were given model trains for Christmas and, captured by a dream, many grew up wanting to become an engineer. The reality today is not far different. For a new class of 23 engineers, the Long Island Railroad had 2,000 applicants to choose from. Now to get the train moving, you'll need to reverse. You're in forward. This position. This is your throttle. Now we'll go in eight notch. Alright, blow the whistle. Dave Decker, senior instructor, has been an engineer for 14 years. Decker loves engineering and teaching, but the memory of train accidents in his past brings a special urgency to his teaching. Engineering used to be a man's job, but Federal affirmative action guidelines give Vita Zamboli, a former secretary, and extraordinary opportunity to join an elite group of railroad employees. I can teach an engineer how to make a proper brake application and accelerate, decelerate. That's the easy part. My most difficult responsibility is to instill into an upcoming engineer that they have monumental responsibilities. The is no margin for error. Not when you are dealing with 1,600 people behind you. Hopefully, I can bring this across to these upcoming engineers. Are you relaxed? A little damp. Alright. That's good. That means you've got guts. If you're not nervous in here, there is something wrong. How do you feel? Are you coming in strong? As she brings the train into a station Vita must learn the right timing how strongly to apply the brakes so as not to stop too soon or overrun the station. Okay. Now what you want to do is bear off the last second. No, no, not this. Right, bear if off. Super. You want that feel of this thing charging into the station and making your initial application and then your final application. You ever run a train before? Huh? Never? You did a heck of a job. What do you think? What do you feel? You feel that this... It was exciting. It was great... ...is this going to be your occupation or what? Yes, it is. Yes. I'm sure it's going to take a while. But I will get the feeling of bringing a train in. There are going to be times in your career when you are going to run across a grade crossing accident. You're traveling along at 65, and a car comes around a gate or through the gates. There's not a thing you can do. You hope you give pre-warning, that a warning whistle or warning bell before you get to that crossing are ample. You'll search your soul to know whether you did it or not. It's not just the glory of running over the road and to say, I always wanted to be an engineer. Now I have that. It's that you have to take that responsibility. If her engineering career follows the norm, Vital will face 500,000 road crossings in the next 25 years. If she is never involved in an accident, passengers who ride her trains will have no reason to learn her name. There are many great train rides around the world, but not one can match the aura of elegance, mystery, and romance surrounding the name-Orient Express. It ran for almost a century until its demise in 1977. Now two men have revived the historic run to Istanbul. Albert Glatt bought the 1920s-vintage cars and lovingly refurbished them. Sometimes, you know, you have to do everything on the train T.C. Swartz chartered the cars for those who could afford to recapture the glory of rail travel in its heyday. ...and then how to surpass it. People's idea of luxury is a little bit different than maybe what is actually was. So we're trying to do now is to give them more luxury than they had in the past. In fact, to make it the ultimate trip. I can't believe it, Oh, it's marvelous. There will be 98 passengers on this trip, each paying a modest $5,000 one way. I think the dogs are great. ...great, but they are... Yeah, but I can't see them sitting in the dining car. Some passengers, like actor Hal Linden and his wife, stage an arrival in the grand tradition, harking back to the aura of a princely trip. Original inlaid wood decorations and Lalique molded glass reliefs still decorate the cars. Names of the countries the Orient Express passes through Austria, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria-ring with romance. Memories of mysteries like Murder on the Orient Express surround the passengers with an atmosphere of champagne and dreams. Well, my name is Otto. And I'm supposed to play the piano all the way to Istanbul. It seems like everything that's wonderful about the world is going away, and the trains are one of those things Kim Vosper and Kyle Collins advanced the date of their weeding so they could make this their first trip together as a married couple. For bourgeois travelers, meals in an aristocratic French style the ultimate temptation for those who count calories. I remember as a child we used to put people on the train in New Iberia. And I was never sad because they were leaving. I was always sad because I wasn't leaving too, but I wasn't standing on the back platform when I'm waving goodbye. I think I was six or seven when I took my first train ride. From that time on, I think I fell in love with trains. And then I heard that you could spend four-and-a-half days on a train that sold me on this trip. The train cruises Europe like an ocean liner. Gypsies play as they did on the first run of the Orient Express. In the evenings, there are gala seven-course dinners. And occasionally the train waits as passengers are bused to the entertainment. A champagne tasting at the Mumm's winery in France. And just as on its maiden voyage, there is a festive reception in Budapest. On the first trip, no passengers on the Orient Express dined at the hunting lodge of the sultan. It is an express journey to the sun, but the high point for many comes in Vienna where the Vienna Boys' Choir is only a part of the entertainment. Protocol prevented the Austrian royal family from receiving plebian passengers of the first Orient Express Now the Pallavicini Palace is theirs for the evening. And finally, the end of the line-Istanbul, Turkey- where passengers get the red-carpet treatment, Oriental style. For the 98 passengers of the Orient Express, the trip will remain an extraordinary adventure into the romance of rails. But the Orient Express has no monopoly on beauty. There are grand adventures for everyone in a rediscovery of travel by train. Amtrak's Crescent, with newly rebuilt equipment, races like a speeding ship across Lake Pontchartrain in Louisiana. The Great Plains offer the same sweeping vistas that challenged the pioneers so long age. There are majestic views of the Rockies on the Canadian transcontinental route The San Diegan is a beachcomber from Los Angeles to San Diego. In the future, new trains traveling for the run between Los Angeles and San Diego, and that is only the beginning. Extraordinary experimental trains may some day revolutionize land travel. For those who love trains, whether as engineer, hobo, or passenger, there's an appreciation due for the song-writer's line: It's got to be the going and not the getting there that's good. |
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