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Politiki Kouzina (A Touch of Spice) (2003)
Granpa often said that the Greek word for
"dream" conceals within the word "belch". Initially, I paid no notice as I could only do these 2 things. Years after, I realised he was referring to food and stories. Both require an essential ritual in order to be tastier. That is, the presentation. I'm either seeing something non-existent or invisible. - When did we change the ink? - Today, just before you arrived. - It's set for the highest resolution. - The problem is the colour. With what I see we should either receive a Nobel or get a new printer. I guess that's it for this semester. Day after tomorrow I'm go on leave so I'll see you all next year. Hope it all goes well. I'm waiting on your dissertation. Fani my boy, how are you? Doctor! - How did you find me? - All of Faliro talks about you. Come... Come, sit down. Is anything wrong? I'll tell you something l shouldn't, but now... What is it, Doctor? Your grandpa is coming. - When? - On Thursday. But I'm leaving on Thursday. It was meant to be surprise but I heard you're leaving so I rushed. Fanis, you should surprise him. I'll go to the airport and you can wait home. We'll call his old friends and you can cook some appetizers... so we can have a drink to welcome him. Remember as a boy how you used to cook all night? So grandpa will sit here and his friends there... No, grandpa will sit there. Resembles the Last Supper... No, grandpa will sit here... Good... And now, grandpa's friends... Grandpa's friends are an unusual clan because they're from lstanbul. Their origin sets them apart both historically and biologically. Can you direct me to Halcyone Street? First and foremost, they are "magnetized." It's like a compass that with every geographical question... it re-orients their identity. Who they are, their origins and where they are going. - That way. - Thank you... This idiosyncracy is related to their dietary habits. For most, food involves the sense of smell and taste. For grandpa's friends it also involves sound and sight. Hello to you all! You all arrived at the same time. Come in! - Did you find it easily? - We came from THlSSEAS Street. But THlSSEAS Street isn't that way, it's that way. He's right, that's how we came. Should we have a toast to grandpa? Where is he then? A bit late, I'd say. The plane landed about an hour ago, so... - lt'll be a great surprise. - He hasn't seen you in so long. I fear certain sounds when they occur just before a meal. Every major event in my life began with the sound of a doorbell, or the sound of a phone. Yes... Doctor... Isn't he here? What do you mean he's not? Maybe he got lost... What? Where did it happen? Constantinople (lstanbul), 1959 The Appetizers To speak about our cuisine, you have to start with the spices. I learned the first secrets of spices at grandpa's store... on the east bank of the Vosporos. - Good day, Mr. Vasilis. - Dorothea, what can I get you? I'd like some cumin, dried fish and vine leaves... A lire, please. - Why so much? - I'll be making meatballs. - Pantelis will also be there. - With the family? - Don't use cumin then. - What should I use? Cinnamon... Mr. Vasilis, we never put cinnamon in meatballs. Dorothea, listen to me... Sometimes we have to use the wrong spice to get a point across. Add something different... Cumin is a strong spice, It turns people inwards. Cinnamon makes people look each other in the eyes. If you want to say "yes", then add cinammon. Thank you, Mr. Vassilis. Where are my pyjama bottoms? Aren't they with your pyjama top? - I can't find them. - I had them together... Hold on... I'm coming. Spices were behind some of the biggest wars in history... one of which I caused ...in our own house. - Cinnamon again? - Of course not! Should I believe you or my nose? I can smell cinnamon! I'm telling you, there's no cinnamon. I've told you many times. Cinnamon and meatballs don't mix! - But you only listen to your mother! - She was the best cook! My mother was the best cook in Tsihangir! You use cinnamon if the meat is off. You had no refrigerator back then and used cinnamon as a preservative. We were the first with household to get a fridge. The American consul sent it! With so many Americans around your house, why did you marry me? If I had a choice, do you think I'd have married you? The arguments were silly hiding issues of historical importance. What do you know about Paleologos? All the books talk about him! Don't you speak about him and history in front of the kid, ok? I never heard that Paleologos ate meatballs with cinnamon! Grandpa said the word "Gastronomer" conceals within it the word "Astronomer". As such, my lessons in astro- nomy involved the use of spices. I talk, you taste and think, O. K.? Here we go... Pepper, warm and it burns... The sun... - What does the sun see? - Everything. Exactly! That is why pepper goes with all foods. Next we have Mercury, It's hot too... and then Venus. Cinnamon... Venus was the most beautiful of all women. That's why cinnamon is sweet and bitter, just like all women. Then we have Earth. What do we have on earth? Life... Exactly, there is life on earth. And what do we need to stay alive? Food... - And what makes food tastier? - Salt... Our lives need salt too. Both food and life require salt in order to be tastier. On Sundays the family would gather for a culinary feast. All women would help, even aunt Elpiniki, who suffered from Parkinson's. Aunt Eleftheria was the most competitive... she knew all the secrets of an exceptional dish. To be on top, she'd hand out her recipes... but never quite correct. I'll tell you, but you must keep it to yourself. - Saut? the onion in oil. - I know that... - The leaves must soak overnight. - I know that too. Once the stuffing is ready... you add some ground "kisa mamout." Isn't that bitter? On its own yes, but it's excellent for delicious dolmades. - Are you trying to poison us? - I followed her instructions! - But you added nettles! - No, it was "kisa mamout." That's what our mother gave us to clear up our acne! Then why did she tell me to add it to the dolmades? What I longed for most was an engagement in the community. Prerequisite for a wedding to occur... was the prospective bride's "initiation" to the cuisine of Constantinople. Don't be afraid. It's already dead! But it will be tasty. They'll be licking their fingers. - Firstly, we add the spices. - Always "hide" garlic and onion. Emilios says that women in Morrocco "hide" garlic in meat. Aunt, keep quiet! Oregano is all it needs and if you add a touch of nutmeg... We'll have a feast on Sunday! Come in, Osman Bey. How are you? Very well. And how are you, Mr. Vasilis? Very well. You look handsome today, Mustafa. When will you drop by and play with Fanis? After the circumcision cere- mony, I'll bring him over. What do you want to be when you grow up? - A doctor... - An army officer. Both are fine but I reckon Mustafa will be an army doctor. - What can I give you? - Oysters... I've invited many diplomats from Ankara for the ceremony. Not to worry, Osman Bay. Just make sure they are kind of big oysters. You do know, I trust you a lot... The diplomatic meeting is of great importance to me. Are things looking bad, Osman Bay? There is a new crisis with Athens... Let's see what will be discussed in the meeting. Relationships without arguments are like weddings without music. We praise Allah when we eat, what about you? You are not allowed to go there, son. You... stir thing up at every meal telling stories... What can we do? That's how it was laid out for us. Time went by and while clouds covered the adults' faces... mine was full of light... because I was in love with Saime... the daughter of Mrs. Aise, my mom's best friend. Go play with Fanis. - What are we having today? - Meatballs... And what will you put inside? Mince, bread crumbs, garlic, salt and pepper... - That won't be tasty. - Why is that? Meatballs require something extra so as to be tastier. - What? - It's a secret spice. Tell me... - And what will you do for me? - I'll cook for you. I know how to cook too. What do you want me to do? Dance for me... The secret for tasty meatballs is... Really? Carnations grow in Myceane... Roses, in Delphi... Oregano, in the Acropolis... Geography is magical and the place to learn it best is near a lighthouse. By the lighthouse, the compass spins wildly... and the air magnetises both the mind and the eyes. My teacher in issues of love was uncle Emilios, a captain. He was the one that brought the latest products from abroad. He was the one that brought us a "doudouklou", a pressure cooker... This card is from the Acropolis... this one from San Paolo and this one from Hamburg. In Athens women cut onions like this. In Hamburg like that... But if a woman makes you sauted mussels, it means she is in love with you. I met one on this trip... Her name was Zozo, she made the best mussels in all of Piraeus. - Why don't you marry her? - She only cooks mussels! Savva quick, something's wrong with the "doudouklou"! - To hell with the pressure cooker! - Stay still, uncle... From the shock, aunt Elpiniki was cured of her Parkinson's. Mussels always remind me of the hammam. Whenever uncle Emilios would return from a journey, we'd go there. I'd hear the elders open their souls, as mussels do when steamed. How do things look, Emilio? There are problems in Cyprus and they say something is "cooking" in Athens. They always say that and nothing ever happens. I realised then that other things can be "cooked" besides food. The other day Osman Bey came by and he smelled of garlic. If a diplomat smells of garlic, trouble is stirring. Also Aidin Bey came by and said something I didn't like. "Things aren't well, Mr. Michalis..." "You must be very careful." "lsn't your son-in-law a Greek citizen?" Shh... the child... For as long as I can remember they keep saying the same thing. The Turks will deport you, Turks will do this and that... They talk and talk, but we are fine, aren't we? Emilie you were sailing during the September 1955 atrocities. You weren't here to see my shop being burned to the ground. I'm selling everything and going to Greece. I need peace of mind. The thought of leaving brings on a pain here... I saw Thrasyvoulos in Athens. Send him some x-rays to look at. We went out one night, while in Athens and talked... about lnstabul and the old times... Wouldn't it be better if they could talk about these things here? My dear departed wife said that when you leave some place... you should talk about the place you are going... not the place you are leaving behind. I'm that kind of person too. "To leave" means to go elsewhere, which for us meant to Greece. Initially I thought Greece was in America. Soon however, geography brought me down. ALL GREEK ClTlZENS TO BE DEPORTED This is Radio lnstabul, with the latest news. Further tension between Greece and Turkey... as a result of recent riots in Cyprus. In the meantime, the deported Greek citizens... are being informed of the con- fiscation of their properties. You are listening to Radio lnstabul. Appetizers are similar to stories which tell of faraway journeys. Flavours and aromas seduce your senses... and prepare you for an adventurous journey. That's why the Greek word for"return" conceals within it the word "turn"... which, conceals within it the word for "food". - Mr. Savvas lakovidis? - Yes... We are from lmmigration. Can we speak to you? Please, come in... Take a seat... Mr. Iakovidis, I'm afraid I have bad news. Your residence permit cannot be renewed. But why? What have I done? You haven't done anything, it's not your fault. Makarios is to blame for everything. Our Turkish brothers there, are suffering more each day. Your father-in-law and your wife can stay. They are Turkish citizens... But you will have to leave. Then, a week from today we'll be waiting at your doorstep. Bring only your personal belongings. You'll tell us your desired means of transport... and we will escort you there. Attention please. The train for Athens is leaving in 5'. All passengers are kindly requested to board immediately. Don't cry... Remember what we said? In two months I'll come to find you... and we will live together in Greece. I'll bring Saime along so you can look at the stars from there. If I'm late, remember to look at the stars wherever you are. Up in the sky, there are things we can see... but there are also things we can't see. Always talk about the things that others can't see. People like hearing stories of things they can't see. Same with food. Do you care if you can't see the salt if the food is tasty? Of course not. The essence is in the salt. I'm giving you this so you will remember me. When I come to Greece, you will cook and I'll dance for you. I am afraid of people in uniform. Police, military, transport police, firefighters... but most of all, immigration officials. The day we left Constantinople, those people in uniform... "wounded" all our meager possessions with chalk marks. They resembled the marks of every deportee. As the Turks sent us away as "Greeks"... while the Greeks received us as "Turks". Good morning! Hi... May l? There you are... So?... When we learned he was ill yesterday... I remember I had received an x-ray with a note attached... Wait... Here it is. "Dear Thrasyvoule, I'm sending this x-ray"... "so that when we meet again I can have your opinion". "Don't tell my relatives. If I do not come... then give it to Fanis". Grandpa... This time I actually thought he would come. I was certain. What can we do? That's how it is. But you... have travelled the world and you never went to see him. Why my son? Athens, 1964 Main Course Who was it that taught you about King Voulgaroktonos? All the books write about him and he ate yellow tail tuna. - Where did you learn about tuna? - ln Constantinople we had the best fish! Sure, whenever the Bosporos overflooded and the fish came through your windows! - The fishermen brought us the best fish! - So where are they now? I forget, you forget, he forgets... We forget, You forget, they forget... - Hi, son... - What's for lunch? - Beans... - Again? Beans are full of vitamins. Wash up, I have news for you. - lf you don't wash, I won't tell you. - My hands are clean. We got a letter from Constantinople and there's something in it for you. In two weeks your grandpa is coming. "Dearest Fanis... I miss you a lot"... "Your grandpa said I'll go with him when he goes to Greece". "You'll cook for me and I'll dance for you". "Your friend, Saime." The nutmeg does wonders for the lmam, how come you added it? That's for tomorrow. Papa is fasting. Then why did you prepare it last night? Holy...! - Sultana, are you kidding? - I had the eggplants in a bag! Didn't you tell me that Aunt Efterpi is a sleep walker? Sleepwalking is hereditary. You wake up and cook. Good Lord... But I never put nutmeg in "lmam". - It's the best lmam I've ever had. - But I didn't cook it!! Fanis, wake up... - The plane will land any minute now. - I'm not going. How come? Don't you want to be there to welcome your Grandpa? I'll stay here and help my aunties. Tell me son... Where you in the kitchen last night? Grandpa will sit there... and his friends... Better not there... He will be facing the kitchen, here... no, it will look like the Last Supper... No, that is the best spot. Nice, very nice... They've arrived! I can see him! With our cuisine you always feel that something is missing... not from the food but from those sitting around you. On that day, both Grandpa and I were absent from the table. It's so strange, grandpa was really looking forward to this trip. Maybe the Turks held him at the airport. They held a friend in customs for 3 hours interrogating him. He had 12 kilos of pastourma (Armenian pastrami) in his bag... Was he Armenian? - Actually, I think he was Jewish. - But they don't eat pastrourma! What does that have to do with smuggling? Hello... Father, are you alright? What happened to you? People from Constantinople have a habit of slapping themselves on hearing bad news. How did that happen? He's coughing... He doesn't sound well. Take care of yourself... What did he say? He woke up with a sore throat... and he had a spot of diarrhea and missed the flight. He always had diarrhea, his entire life was spent in the loo. He was normal up until our wedding, he'd only go twice a day. Then, he started to go more often. With her cooking 6 times a day what do you expect? I think something's wrong with papa. - When will he come? - As soon as he's well. - And said to kiss the boy. - Actually, where is Fanis? My dear girlfriend. I'm really sad today... I was waiting for you along with my grandpa. I had cooked a nice dish for you that you would have liked. - Dear me, this is exceptional. - The boy made it, he has talent. - Educate him as a chef in France. - His father won't have it. - A 7 year old cooped up in a kitchen. - All kids have hang-ups. Why is it a hang-up? The boy is just fine... I'm not bothered that he cooks, I'm concerned he cooks so well. At his age, that is definitely a quirk! Evanthia's daughter did the same and she's still in the asylum. Dear God, don't be telling me this...! Sauces guide taste towards exaggeration. When people don't add sauces to food, they "sauce up" conversations. - Remember Evanthia's daughter? - Of course, I remember! At seven, she was the best cook in the city! She's still in the asylum. The priest said she was possessed. Said the devil was cooking. - My compliments, it's delicious. - It's a specialty, our boy made it. In our neighborhood there are many Turks like you. We aren't Turks, we are Greeks of Constantinople. My husband was deported, we are Greek Orthodox. Bring the boy for communion, he will then stay on for catechism. Fanis must get out of the kitchen. Did our Lord Jesus cook? Never, just now and again He fended for bread and wine. Shall I serve you some more Father? Your son is bright Mr. Iakovidis, but I'm concerned about something. His mind is elsewhere. He doesn't follow the class, he's distracted. Where does he study at home? In the kitchen... We spend most of our time there. I think you must get him out of there. Food and aromas obstruct him from adjusting to Greek life. Do you know he only plays with girls? He sits in the middle and cooks for them... Look, even now... Give it here, now! - I said, now! - I don't want to! Will you become a pansy? Boys your age play other games. I don't want other games. Fanis, promise you'll play with boys, look what I have for you! - I don't like killing birds. - But you'll kill your little "birdy"! You're too young to "play" with girls. Once you're old enough, I'll take you... No, no, no! From now on, nobody is allowed in the kitchen, not even me... only your mother, understood? My dearest girlfriend, you haven't written in so long. I received the postcards, they are really nice... My dearest girlfriend... Time went by and friends and relatives came from lstanbul... bringing along various news. That year, uncle Emilios brought us our first mixer. Aunt Elpiniki was so happy she also hugged the mixer... and she therefore relapsed into Parkinson's. - Where is the boy? - ln the bathroom. It seems he's been there a long time. Since 2 years ago. He only comes out to go to school. He won't listen to us. Someone needs to have a talk with him. - Fanis son, how are you? - I'm okey... Grandpa told me to send you his love... and tell you that he'll soon be here, no matter what. I almost forgot, one day a friend of yours came by... - What was her name again? - Saime... Do you remember her at all? Does he remember? She came by with her mother to say goodbye to grandpa. They left because her father now work in Ankara. Didn't she write? - She hasn't written for 2 years. - And you still remember her? Don't you like Greek girls? His class is full of pretty girls but he's stuck on her. You have to forget her, get her off your mind. How long will you be stuck on her? She's already forgotten you. ATHENS - THESSALONlKl lSTANBUL There he is! Where have you been? Wake up and see who's waiting for you. Forced to deal with my fears, was my punishment for trying to escape. April 21, 1967... The day that Greek Millitary Junda came to power My father was convinced that in order to forget Saime... I had to become a person in uniform. We wish you a Merry Christmas! Come over here son... A hundred drachmas? Nobody gave that much... I always give the Boy Scouts a big contribution. Did you add sugar? Are your folks from lnstabul? That's why... In Aidini my mother only used cinnamon. What do we have here? Is the boy for me? Leave the boy alone. Get on with it, you have customers waiting. Stick around and give me a hand since you know about cooking. Take the spoon, I'll stuff the tomatoes. I was 5 years old in Aidini, when the Turks came... My brother was older. Last time I saw him, he was dressed just like you. When I see a scout I get emotio- nal and always give something extra. - Barbara, can you come here? - What is it again? Just come here! Oh those cheapskates, bargaining and bickering. They've seen the girl, fresh as a daisy. Cook in a brothel...! I can't imagine how my son would do that. That's Boy Scouts for you... They allegedly go on field trips to the mountains to learn knots. But isn't that why they become scouts? They teach them Russian knots! Instead of teaching them about ethnic pride, they send them to brothels! We're peace loving people from Constantinople. We know about you, Mr. Iakovidis... we know you are a patriot but you must keep your eyes open. You must protect your son from thousands of temptations. I'll write down a few places the boy must go frequently. Firstly, the Royal Gardens, then the palaces... then the war museum. He must learn about the struggle of the Greeks, become a patriot. Twice a week after lunch... Of course... I was mostly bothered when men in uniform asked dad the same question... How long has it been since your family came from Turkey? How long has it been since How long has it been? From Constantinople you mean? It's four years now. - What language do you speak at home? - Greek of course. But with a Turkish dialect? Does it matter? Of course, it causes him make mistakes. Kolokotronis isn't a verb but a Greek national hero of the revolution! You must do something to vitalize his sense of ethnic pride. Our heroes must be emblazoned on his mind. A few years later... What's this I see? Welcome back, my little Turk! Greetings to the chef. Just on time, son. We wouldn't let you leave anyway. You go on with Litsa, when dinner is ready I'll call you. The main courses in our cuisine take you back to your childhood. You are instantly submerged in the cook's generous offering... allowing you to enjoy the ride. Until the sound of the phone is heard, or the doorbell... or a message. This morning the Turkish troops, without prior cause... without prior warning invaded the island of Cyprus. Neglecting any sense of inter- national law and alliance treaties... they turned against our Greek and Cypriot brothers. All forces in Cyprus are fighting against the invasion. Our cuisine is made by people who left their meal unfinished... ...somewhere else. Someone is asking for you. Uncle! You look well son and the uniform suits you, right? Same for you... I've been told you are doing well. Do you still have time for school? Listen Fanis, I have news for you. Your grandpa is coming. Grandpa? When? That is up to you... - Up to me, why? - I'm getting married. At last! Where is she from uncle, Buenos Aires? She's from Kalamata...(in Greece) She comes from a military family. An arranged marriage? First thing your grandpa will ask is if she knows how to cook. The only thing Lela knows how to cook is fried eggs. So what does she need to learn? Grandpa's favourite has always been "hunkiar beenti". Don't be afraid... It's already dead! Do you know how tasty it'll be? They'll be licking their fingers. Now, we'll add the spices... For meat we always hide a bit of garlic and onion. Hide it? Why should l? Because that's how it goes. We never hide anything in our food, whatever we add is visible. The classes will go on until next week. By the time grandpa arrives, you must know how to cook Hunkiar. If you want to marry, you'll have to learn to hide a few things. - Uncle? - How is it going? - Man, isn't it hot in here? - You should visit the engine room. What's up with Anna? She's not bad... She is from a good family, military stock... Look at this... Amanda in Rome... Uncle, what are these? What are they doing here? I sent Grandpa postcards from all of my ports... and he sent me x-rays to show to doctors... "You travel the world, he'd say, show them round to get an opinion"... Naive as I was, I ran to every doctor and they all laughed. - What was wrong with him? - Nothing... An old wound from 1922. Do you know why he sent them Fanis? Not for the doctors to see, but for me to see. In 1955, in 1964... every time there was a crisis with the Turks... I received an x-ray. Look at her... Zozo... You could tell what she was cooking from the way she moved. Uncle... Why don't we cast off now? No matter how you look Lela, you'll never know what she's cooking. All these years you have savored life, you've travelled the world... How could you ever spend the rest of your life eating fried eggs? Fanis my son, in life there are two kinds of travellers... Those that look at the map and those that look at the mirror. The ones who look at the map are leaving... The ones who look in the mirror are coming home. Before this voyage, I looked in the mirror. I've found Lela, she's a nice girl... from a good home, and I propo- sed, something I've never done before. I'll keep my promise... and I'll marry her. - What's that? - That doesn't exist. Why not? Most of the stars you see, don't exist. We simply see the marks they left in time. You should never tell a woman the stars she sees, don't exist. I'd rather you talked about something that isn't visible. The salt in our food... So, are you a cook or an astronomer? Grandpa says that "gastronomer" conceals the word "astronomer". Since your uncle and Lela are getting married, we'll be relatives. I don't think my uncle will be marrying your cousin. Why not? That stinks, what is it? An essential ingredient for "hunkiar", "kisa mamout"... What you did was unforgivable! Your uncle loves you and you go and spoil his future. I did it for him. She is not good for him. It'd be a shame for the biggest charmer to tie the knot with Lela. She'd get 3rd degree burns, just by boiling eggs. And who asked you to interfere? At times you have to make a a mistake with a recipe... Not in order to spoil things! I did it for my uncle and I'm sure grandpa will agree. If he finds out the wedding is off, he won't come. Let's hope he does come, so something good does come out of this. Keep dreaming... Grandpa won't come tomorrow. You think he'll come for an arranged marriage? I'll tell you something and finally get it in your heads... Grandpa won't come tomorrow and never intended to do so. Grandpa didn't come all these years... because he didn't want to. He would never leave Constantinople. None of us would, for anything in the world. Constantinople is called "The City"... because it's the most beautiful city in the world. When we were deported... the Turkish officer whispered in my ear... that if I became a Muslim, me, not you... that we could stay and no one would ever harm us. Do you want to know what haunts me all these years? That I didn't say NO immediately. For five seconds, I actually thought about it... May the Lord forgive me, those were the worst 5 seconds of my life... Full of music and sunsets and conversations... In our minds, Greece was more beautiful than "The City"... more beautiful than what we actually found when we came. God forgive me... But keep in mind that grandpa won't be coming tomorrow. The Desserts HOSPlTAL FOR GREEKS Panagia Valouklis Grandpa! It's me, Fanis... I'm here Grandpa... I'm here... You are the Ressurection and the Rest of Your servant Vasilis. Jesus our Lord, we praise Your glory... and Your eternal Father and Your Holy and life giving Spirit... now and forever and for the centuries to come. God of the spirits and of all the living... the One who through death gave life to the world... Rest the soul of Your servant Vasilis... in a bright and resting place... where no sorrow or tear shall exist... All his sins, whether spoken, thought of or actioned... You kind and loving Lord, please forgive... as there is no man that lived without sin. A little... UNlVERSlTY OF VOSPOROS Astrophysics Department In our cuisine, the desserts are the epilogue of every fairy tale. In the end the hero's feared emotions are realised... The desserts soften the sounds which interrupt the celebratory meal. I took the train and came right away. I didn't want to miss her birthday. I didn't know you had a guest, otherwise I would have told you. The train to Ankara via Eschi Sehir departs in 3 minutes. |
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