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Ring of Fire (1991)
Our earth was born of fire.
For two billion years. volcanoes spewed forth the magma which the waking earth would use to build itself into being. Volcanoes also vented the gases which would form the Earth's atmosphere and the oceans. Where life itself was born. Then in the last seconds of geologic time a life form emerged that would seek to understand creation itself. Today, more than 400 active volcanoes shape life on the pacific rim. Geologists call it "The Ring of Fire." From Navidad in Chile and the volcanoes of the Andes... to the ancient ash-covered empires of Mesoamerica... past San Francisco on the San Andreas fault. To Mount St. Helens and the cascades of America's Northwest... To the great volcanic island arcs of the Aleutians. Siberia... and Japan. With sacred Mount Fuji... and explosive Mount Sakurajima... to Indonesia, home of Krakatoa... Bromo... and Gunung Agung. Here where half a billion people dwell is a window on the awesome geological forces that shape our planet. At the very center of the ring of fire, on the island of Hawaii exists a lake of molten lava. In this fiery lake can be seen a likeness of the Earth's crust and the geologic forces that shape it. The Earth's thin crust is formed of great tectonic plates which are in constant motion. Spreading. Colliding. Grinding past one another. And plunging back into the molten interior. Around the ring of fire, collisions of the Earth's tectonic plates produce earthquakes. And the most violent natural phenomenon on earth. This is Navidad volcano in southern Chile which burst from the Earth on christmas day 1988 and grew to a height of 1,000 feet in a month. Few people died in this sparsely populated region. Yet the immense geological forces on the ring of fire can just as easily strike at the heart of civilization. 7,000 miles north on the ring of fire. two tectonic plates meet at a great fault called the San Andreas, which lies like a time bomb beneath the city of San Francisco. In 1906, a massive earthquake destroyed this city. and in the years that followed San Francisco waited as the stresses again built up along the fault. Until one october day in 1989. The third game of the world series was about to begin between the two bay area teams. The San Francisco Giants and the Oakland A's. We're having an earthquake. We're having an earthquake hold on. One of the bridges collapsed. Serious damage on the Bay Bridge. Part of the upper deck collapsing. I've never seen anything like this. There's a major fire burning in the marina district. It started at the northeast corner of Beach and Divisidero streets. A building there collapsed and burst into flames. That is completely collapsed. That's the upper section collapsing into the lower section of the cypress. A truck is upside down. We need something to pry the door open. We need something to pry the door open. The earthquake lasted less than 15 seconds but 62 people were dead and nearly 4,000 injured. 42 died in the collapse of the nimitz freeway. More than 20,000 homes and buildings were damaged or destroyed during the quake. Yet it struck with 1/30th of the energy of the great quake of 1906. Engineers learned a great deal from what structures survived the quake and what failed. A 50-foot section of the bay bridge collapsed where the forces generated by the earthquake sheared the bolts on one side of the span. The bridge was repaired and reopened in the month. Built on landfill dwellings in the marina district broke apart... the unstable ground beneath them actually magnifying the effects of the quake. Buildings engineered to withstand the greatest earthquakes stood strong. And so did the people. Everybody helped each other. It was like one big family out there. It knocked us down, but it didn't knock us out. There are disasters everywhere. Everyone lives under some kind of threat. If it's not an earthquake, it's a tornado or hurricane. It's a beautiful city, regardless. i love it here. i'll never leave. 10 days after this quake. we went back to baseball. Now. That's... that's the spirit of San Francisco. Though the flags flew at half-mast. The fans reunited at candlestick park to resume a world series and a game turned into a celebration of renewal. 600 miles north of San Francisco is the site of the greatest volcanic eruption in modern american history. Mount St. Helens. Near where he stood that sunday morning in 1980. Photographer Gary Rosenquist recalls the moment. At dawn I noticed through some trees steam at the very top of the mountain. I got my camera and I just started taking pictures, and the whole side of the mountain was sliding away. I was so excited. I couldn't concentrate. It was just amazing. I'd never seen anything like that before. 240 square miles of woodland were devastated in the eruption. 57 people and millions of animals were killed. Today. A ghostly forest still floats on the surface of spirit lake. Across the landscape of fallen timber life is reappearing at a rate that has a astonished biologists. Deep within the crater, a lava dome formed in st. helens' volcanic throat has risen over a thousand feet. The mountain is rebuilding itself. With his fellow geologists from the Cascades Volcano Observatory dr. Norman Banks is credited with saving thousands of lives. Our monitoring data convinced the governor who was also a scientist, that an eruption possibly of significant magnitude was developing. Since the explosive eruptions of 1980 we have had to work very close to the center of activity. That is the dome itself to detect the changes that allow us to forecast the next eruption. You can't predict future eruptions of a volcano until you know its character. Some of the instrumentation we use can be as simple as our own senses. But to provide data that's quantifiable we have to resort to high-tech equipment such as seismometers deformation equipment, and gas analysis. What we're after here is to obtain the ability to save thousands of lives repeatedly around the ring of fire. Several weeks after the team left the mountain the lava dome exploded without warning. Volcanologists foresee even greater eruptions in the future. For the forces which created and destroyed Mount St. Helens contines powerful beyond our imaginings. Deep within the earth above a core of iron and nickel is a mantle of lighter elements heated by natural radioactivity. Over millions of years the mantle behaves like a heated fluid. The thin plates of the earth's crust float like huge rafts adrift on the fluid mantle. The heavier plates of the spreading sea floor sink beneath the continental plates creating earthquakes around the pacific rim. The sinking plates release superhot fluids which melt the mantle above them. The lighter magma rises forming complex volcanic conduits and immense magma chambers on its way to eruption. Through repeated eruptions this tectonic process has formed the volcanoes of the ring of fire. Mount Sakurajima is one of hundreds of volcanoes which make up the island arc of Japan. The fire drummers of Mount Sakurajima enact the fury of the volcano. Each year, Sakurajima explodes in scores of ash eruptions which blanket the island and the port city of Kagoshima. An annual evacuation drill commemorates the terrible eruption of Sakurajima volcano in 1914. The islanders live in harmony with active volcano which affects nearly every aspect of their lives. Across the bay in the city of Kagoshima, even the shopping malls have been designed with domed skylights to keep out the regular storms of ash. Life goes on for a people living in the shadow of destruction. Kagoshima survives, in part, because of the vigilance of the scientists who live and work at the center of the bay on the very flank of the volcano. Here every fluctuation of the volcano is carefully monitored by a team of volcanologists headed by dr. Kusuke Kamo. Vigilance is a way of life in a country with more than 50 active volcanoes and more than 10,000 earthquakes every year. In the great Tokyo earthquake of 1923 more than 140,000 people perished mostly from the fires started by the quake. Today the people of Tokyo are part of a national earthquake preparedness program designed to save thousands of lives. Buildings are structurally engineered to survive the tremendous forces generated by earthquakes. No people on earth are as prepared for natural disaster as the japanese. Humans are not the only primates adapted to life on the ring of fire. Heat from volcanic sources warms the hot springs of Nagano allowing the japanese snow monkey to survive as the world's most northerly species of monkey. In Beppu, people have also learned to live with volcanic powers, harnessing their geothermal energy for health and relaxation. The therapeutic hot springs of Kirishima... and the lava sand baths of Beppu have become popular health spas. A respite from the relentless pace of modern life which, in Japan, is always just a step away. 3,000 miles southwest, where the ring of fire crosses the equator buddhas keep watch over the volcanoes of Indonesia at the temple of Borobudur. Writer/anthropologist Lawrence Blair has lives in Indonesia for many years studying the ancient bond between its volcanoes and its people. The temple of Borobudur... it was built in this highly unstable valley to commemorate the achievement, not of architectural engineering but of serene harmony in the human heart. For 10 centuries, it has survived earthquakes and eruption which have long since eclipsed the enlightened empire which built it. For Indonesia is the most fertile and eruptive nation on the planet. Perhaps the long memory of a shifting, unstable earth has taught the indonesians to rely less on the physical world than on the unseen forces behind it. Deep within the crater of the notorious volcano of Kawah Idgen, there are those who seek their living directly from the cauldrons of hell. For here is a rare surface source of pure sulfur to be mined by hand and borne on their backs for 15 miles down the volcano's slopes. Within their lungs the poisonous fumes turn into sulfuric acid condemning them to a life of less than 30 years. Still they accept Kawah Idgen's terms grateful for the volcano's gift confident of their destiny beyond this world of shadows. On the indonesian island of Bali towers the sacred volcano of Gunung Agung. "The Navel of the Universe." Worshippers still climb the flanks of the sacred mountain where, in 1963, thousands died in an eruption of superheated ash flows. High on the slopes of the sleeping volcano at the surviving mother temple of all bali the kecak dance unfolds. A ring of fire pulsates as a single organism but is soon divided by strife. Two god kings emerge leaders of the warring opposites. The king of the monkey people... and the king of the demons. Their battles violently divide then reunite the community restoring its balance just as the holy mountain above regularly destroys and renews. The rich, fertile land, which is the wealth of Indonesia is a gift of the volcanoes. A deep and ancient understanding of the connection between life and death gives indonesians an easy intimacy with both the creative and the destructive powers of the earth and with their own mortality. In Bali even the bodies of the dead together with their finest funeral arts are returned to fire. To god Shiva's purifting furnace of renewal and rebirth. The fire god in different forms, is alive atop nearly all of Indonesia's some 140 volcanoes reflecting an ancient understanding that paradise and catastrophe go hand in hand. To witness creation in all its power we return to the very center of the ring of fire. The volcanic island of Hawaii has been created in just a few million years. Measured from its base on the Pacific floor Mauna Loa is the tallest mountain on Earth, and together with its sister volcano Kilauea it is among the most active. In 1984, Mauna Loa and Kilauea came to life in rare simulaneous eruptions. For 21 days and nights Pele, the Hawaiian goddess of volcanoes, danced. Unlike the explosive strato- volcanoes on the pacific rim, the more fluid lavas of most hawaiian volcanoes form fiery lakes and rivers, which flow down the broad slopes of the great hawaiian shield volcanoes toward the sea. The Mauna Loa eruption ended, but Kilauea continued to erupt, and between the volcano and the sea lay the village of Kalapana. Beneath the cooled surface, the lava continued to flow, forming its own underground arteries as it rushed toward the sea. Shere the lava flows into the ocean, the island frows. This is the newest land on Earth. In less than a year, life will emerge. In less than a decade. hundreds of species of plants and animals have returned to Mount St. Helens. In less than a century, forests filled with life will once again dominate the land. Creation did not happen just once. Creation continues. It is a beginning without end. The Earth is alive. We recognize it in the volcanoes of the ring of fire. And we bear witness to it in the indomitable spirit of its peoples. |
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