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Sustainable (2016)
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[serene instrumental music playing] [man 1] Having grown up in the '50s and '60s, in a world that was really divorcing itself from the source of all of its food. I got to Mexico and I discovered that there was still a really strong bond between people and where their food came from, the people that produced the food. I got back to the United States and I was buying produce that came from, who knows where. I kept asking myself, how am I going to make great food, if I don't have any connection to the people that are growing that food? We have gotten so distant from the food that we start thinking about it as a commodity. For goodness sakes, it's our nourishment as human beings. And I can have an opportunity to have give and take with the people that are actually keeping me alive. [upbeat instrumental music playing] [man 2] I'm Marty Travis, and I'm a farmer in Central Illinois. Each Friday night, I send an email to close to 200 shops, it lists the product that we have available from Spence Farm and then we deliver every Wednesday to the restaurants, what they've ordered. And, we do all the deliveries ourselves. I usually make our first delivery at 9.30 in the morning. Hit as many as 30 plus restaurants during the day. Cover a pretty good sloth of the city. We worked it out so that we're hitting each restaurant when somebody's there to receive it and somebody there to write a check. But, it's more about the relationship than it is the rutabagas. It's an important intricate piece in the marketing that we do. But it's much more than just selling things to them, they've really become our friends. [man 3] It's so funny that people talk about... "Oh, I'm a small farmer and I'm providing food for restaurants, and I sell some of my stuff at a CSA and I have a truck stand and then I go to the farmer's market once a week." That's what a small farmer typically these days would say. Well, that was what everybody did, 50 years ago. [sweeping instrumental music playing] There weren't as many restaurants but restaurants got their food locally and people got their food locally and most of everything was seasonal. You look at frozen food, you look at microwaves, You look at super-highly processed food you look at the ease at which these things can be transported. Each of these steps, made it more and more possible to say, if we grow a lot of the same crop in one area, then we have the ability to process food, freeze it, ship it from a central location to the rest of the country. And you're not saying, "How do we want to feed ourselves?" You're saying, "How can we make agriculture into the most efficient profit making system that we can?" To start with, how do we make the most possible money? Rather than, how do we produce the most appropriate food is asking the wrong question first. It is at a crisis point. But it's not a crisis you wake up and see every morning. It's at a crisis point where we have a health care crisis, where our land and water is being badly used, and climate change. Agriculture is the number two culprit in climate change. The way that we produce food and the way we eat affects almost everything. Each aspect of that has big problems. It appears that we have a food system but what we have is a system of using agriculture, food marketing, food production to make money for a number of corporations. We do get to eat, but we don't get to eat food that's green and nutritious, and fair and affordable. And if those are our goals, then we need a food system that says, these are our goals, how do we get there? [Marty] The winter season here at the farm, is much different than the other seasons. It can be an incredibly beautiful time. It's about keeping warm. And also, keeping our livestock warm, and well fed. Winter is a season that, I think, here in the Midwest, we just wanna get through it quickly. I work on the farm with my wife, Kris and our son, Will. My son, Will must be at least a foot taller than I am now. I look up to Will in many ways. There's been a couple of times where we've asked him, "So, what are you gonna to do on the farm, what part of this do you want to do?" And one of the things he came up with when he was still in high school was that he wanted to resurrect the maple syrup business. The native Kickapoo shared how to make syrup with my fourth great grandfather in 1830. And from that time on, syrup has been made each generation. [Will] I wanted to do the maple syrup because I really enjoy being in the timber the sounds and the smells. It's just a very calming, relaxing environment to be in. [Marty] It's connecting back to a time that was very important to this farm. So it's a sense of pride to see the next generation re-capture some of that. This farm was settled by my fourth great grandfather in October of 1830. In 1981, the farm had been in our family for a 151 years at that point. My grandmother decided that she couldn't take care of the farm in the way that she had for years. And decided to sell the house yard and the farm buildings to a conventional farm family. [surreal instrumental music playing] And then, for the next 18 years, the farm really, was farmed conventionally corn and soybeans, and during that period of time was when the fellow that farmed the acreage was so excited that it was Roundup Ready soybeans. So then, my grandmother bought the farm back, and I moved back here in... the spring of '99. It was a very surreal kind of experience in many ways. The buildings were in tough shape, so they needed repair. The house needed repairs and the land needed to be repaired. The soil just didn't seem the same. A lot of corn stalks were still there, two and three years later, just weren't breaking down, and the soil was hard to walk on. It just didn't feel right. [man 4] The soil is one of those things that most people take for granted. And yet, if you think about it as a resource, it's sort of the most undervalued yet invaluable resource humanity has. It's the foundation for terrestrial life, it's a foundation for agriculture. And yet, we pretty much, for the modern era, have been treating soil like dirt. If you look back at the history of past civilizations, you keep running into different versions of a very similar story. You look at Mesopotamia, to Greece, to Rome to the Southeastern United States, to the American Midwest and the Dust Bowl. It's a whole progression of societies that have damaged and degraded their soil, and then moved on to the next place. It would be profoundly unwise to not look back and try and learn the lessons of those societies. Given that now, we don't really have anywhere else to go. I've actually been very impressed and amazed by how simple changes in practices can greatly reduce the need for agricultural inputs. Like fertilizers and herbicides and pesticides in particular, and buy us some time to essentially think about how to generate a truly sustainable agriculture. [man 5] In a typical Iowa cropping system, in which corn and soy are grown in alternate years on the same land, farmers are looking to have a high yield of corn, by applying a sufficient amount of nitrogen to the soil in the form of mineral fertilizer. Weeds are everywhere in these fields and farmers have relied more and more on chemicals that are very effective in suppressing weeds. If we wanted an agricultural system that was minimally dependent on non renewable resources and that was... careful in its impacts on the environment. What would that system look like? We started working on this land in 2001 and what we found out is that we could reduce our use of mineral nitrogen fertilizer by 90 percent and reduce our use of herbicides by more than 95 percent if we add oats with red clover, or oats with alfalfa to that corn and soy rotation. This oat crop has this companion of clover which is taking nitrogen out of the atmosphere and putting it into its roots, which allows us to back way off on the amount of mineral fertilizer we use. We've seen less erosion potential in the longer rotations. So we've seen these indicators of improved environmental performers and we've also been able to maintain profitability because of lower input costs in the longer rotations. The basic fact that impedes the adoption of more diverse, less chemically dependent systems is that we don't put a price tag on environmental damage. Impairments of water quality or loss of soil due to erosion, or drift of herbicides onto non-target crops. The so called externalities, are not factored into the production equation. [Mark B.] If the external cost were added, back into the cost of industrial farming, then it would seem much more expensive. It would seem as expensive as it really is. The argument that sustainable foods are more expensive, goes out the window, when you recognize that sustainable food has far fewer externalities than industrially produced food. [male newscaster 1] Scientists who work for the Federal Government have discovered a huge dead zone in the Gulf of Mexico where fish cannot survive. It is about the size of Connecticut covering nearly 6000 miles. Surface runoff is a very serious problem. [male newscaster 2] The primary cause of the dead zone is nitrogen-based fertilizers that are washed down the Mississippi River by spring rains and into the Gulf. Suppose that you're a farmer from Illinois, and you get a letter from the governor or from Louisiana which has a bill in it for $234,000 and that's your share of the cost of cleaning up the dead zone in the Gulf of Mexico. Kern County is one of the several areas in our state that was found to have high nitrate levels in its ground water. [Fred] Increasingly now, the public is having to paying the cost to take enough of the nutrients out of the water, the nitrate, et cetera to make it safe to drink. Toledo, Ohio, their water was found to be unsafe. Pesticide runoff threatens drinking water... ...high concentrations of nitrate... ...phosphates, pollution. They've never had nitrate levels this high. [male newscaster 3] Health officials are recommending that pregnant women and children under six months old not drink the water... [male newscaster 3] What flows in those fields is having a disastrous consequence on human and aquatic health. [Fred] We have to begin to look at what's gonna help solve this. And so here again, planting crops in a diverse rotation, it restores the biological health of soil. And as a result, you're gonna have less flooding because you got more water going into the soil. And then during the drought periods, you're gonna have more moisture in the soil to sustain the plants. So there's a number of things we know how to do and can do. But farmers are under this enormous pressure, you know, to produce as much as possible and the good/bad news is that we can't do this much longer because we're using up the natural resources that we've used to sustain this kind of system. Even the Ogallala Aquifer, which is one of the largest Aquifers on the planet, and provides irrigation water for the heartland. Everything from Southern South Dakota to Texas. At the rate that we're drawing it down now, they're predicting that it will only have water available for irrigation for another 20 years. [man 6]There's a 120 million acres of corn and soy rotations. But no farmer goes out there planting corn and soy rotations, because they're in love with corn and soy. I've actually never met 'em. What I've met is farmers who do that because the whole system is geared towards corn/soy. From the tractors to the seeders, to the elevators, it's all built around that system. We better figure out how to create an economy for those truly sunk costs which are the crops that are part of rotations. And as a chef, I feel the responsibility to create something so delicious that you create a market for it. I created this dish called, "Rotation Risotto," it's the nose to tail eating of the farm. What does it mean to eat the whole farm? And that's where I think a chef, and ultimately a culture can play a huge influence on a system of agriculture that sustains itself and that then, you know, drives home the point of what is true sustainability. [Marty] Spring is my most favorite time of year. It is this incredible energy flow, up out of the ground almost all at once. It's not just the seeds we plant coming up, but it's the push of the buds of the trees, it's almost everything coming alive again. And honestly, it's people, too. It is that period of time that things look very rosy usually. Today we're planting potatoes. And, it's cold and blustery out of the north, but, at least it's sunny. We could go a little faster. If you keep a potato in the dark and keep it longer than you usually should maybe, it starts to get those little eyes on it and it starts to sprout. Well, that's what creates the new potato. As Kris, Will, and I began talking about this farm, we felt like we needed to create a different vision for what it was to become. When the settlers first came, they had to be sustainable to create food for themselves. We wanted to recreate a part of that. Not just growing crops for commodity markets, but growing crops that we could actually eat and that we could sell to the community at large. What we want it to be about was a change in our food system. We began our farm enterprise basically around the wild ramp season. Wild ramps are like a wild onion or a wild leek that grow natively in the woods through the Midwest and through the south. We would harvest about a 1000 pounds a week. And we found a distributor in Michigan that would take all we could do. We also realized that, we were supplying him and he was just the middleman. Shortly after that a friend of ours invited us to a chef's collaborative meeting in Chicago. But I remember now, there were only maybe, a half dozen chefs. They were all the main guys. And all of them said, "Call us." At the end of ramp season, Nearly every chef asked, "So what else do you have?" And we said, "We don't have anything, but we'll grow whatever you want." That's how it started. And they began to provide us with the lists of things that they would like to have. What we do is spend time researching as many different, weird and new things that we could find, from all over the world, all different kinds of tomatoes, kohlrabi, celeries. We've got some Mexican broccoli that's coming, just as much variety as we can possibly do. One of our first chefs that we developed a relationship with was Rick Bayless. Rick has been incredibly supportive of not just our farm, but farmers in general. [Rick] We have been buying this Iroquois White Corn from the Iroquois nation, and it was done in a very traditional style. And then all of a sudden they announced that they weren't going to grow it anymore. I said that to Marty and Kris, who, of course immediately said, "Okay, we're just gonna go find that corn and then we can maybe grow it." [Marty] It took nearly two years, to be able to find enough seed to plant eight 200 foot rows. And we had roughly 63 pounds of corn. And he said on his counter in the kitchen at the restaurant, and almost cried, he said, "This is it." The processing of the dried corn was one of the things that gave it it's unique character. So they preserved the seed, but then they also preserved the culture of processing that corn, which I think is, an incredibly valuable part of that whole equation. Everybody's familiar with the garlic bulb but not everybody does green garlic. This gives us something early in the spring to take to the chefs. We get a good amount per pound and it's a lot less work. Economically, we've made a conscious effort, to not buy brand new equipment, just save our own seeds, you know, to be cognizant of our inputs. And it's worked. But, it's at the scale of what we can accomplish and what we are comfortable with. The size of our farm is 160 acres. That's really, really small, compared to the conventional farms around here. A lot of the guys around here would farm a 1000 to 3000 plus acres. They probably could not make a living just on farming a 160 acres. [Will] You know, they get a bad corn crop, they're complaining that the crop is trash but their prices go way up. Now they've got a really amazing corn crop, and they're complaining because the prices are falling off the bottom. I mean, that's what happens though when you relying on somebody else to set the prices for everything. If the conventional farmers around here did not get subsidies, they wouldn't be able to make it. This year our average per acre was somewhere around 2200 an acre. They're making $400 an acre, maybe. You know, you look at that against their cost of everything, there's not a huge profit margin there for 'em. [Marty] Most of our neighbors are really focused on high yields. That's what pays their bills. For us, it's more about quality, quality, quality. And then, it's the relationship that we have with our chefs, that has sustained us long term. If we're going to make a profit, you gotta pay attention to all of those pieces. [man 7] I think the message that the agricultural community stresses is that chemistry will create higher yields and feed the world. Organic growers on the other hand, rely on a very important, well respected science, it's called biology. And biology means life. And we talk about life, then we go back, all the way to the soil. [man 8] We're in our Farming Systems Trial and we're in a project that compares conventional and organic, These are Roundup Ready soybeans. They were drilled into the ground here, you can see it looks quite different from the Organic No-Till. This is treated with chemical salt-based fertilizers and also with herbicides. The herbicide is not designed to kill life in the soil, but it's like a side effect, it just happens. There's always the push-back, from the industrial model. Organic can't feed the world. And after 34 years, not three or four, thirty-four years later, our data shows that yields are the same. Conventional right next to organic. When the soil is healthy, we have shown that yields are improved in the organic trials when there's issues of drought, up to 31 percent higher yields. So there's the beauty of growing with life. In 2014, we created a White Paper that identified "regenerative organic agriculture" as the answer to reversing climate change. And here's how simple it is, here's how it works. Green plants take in carbon dioxide out of the air, take it up into their leaf, stomata, and turn it into a liquid. It's then exuded down into the soil as simple sugars. They give it to the microorganisms that live in that healthy biological soil, and if we don't destroy them with tillage and chemicals, that carbon becomes a part of that microorganisms molecular structure. And they hold that carbon in their body for generations. That's called carbon sequestration. [Jeff] Using yield as the sole measuring stick is what got us into trouble in the first place. We're exchanging short-term gain for long-term stability, and we wanna feed people for thousands of years, and not just for 50 years. [Mark S.] This is really not about us, it's about generations to come. It's about our children and our grand children, and our great-grand children who'd look back on us. They wanna know what is the legacy that we left. "What did you leave behind for us?" We proved that you could accomplish things previously thought to be impossible. And we did it for all of you. [man 9] I think industrial agriculture, back in the earlier days when I got involved in it, it really made a lot of sense, it was really a very, sort of seductive message that I thought had a lot of logic to it. We're going to improve the efficiency of agricultural production, and provide greater food security. It was for the public good. And people like me, we believed it, because it made economic sense. The problem was that it simply didn't work. Food is the most basic of all human needs. Man can manage to live without shelter, without clothing, even without love. Poverty, unpleasant as it is, is bearable. But man can't remain alive without food. [John] When we had the CBS special, Hunger In America, the estimates were at that time, that five percent of the people lived in food-insecure homes. Today, more than 15 percent of the people in this country, are classified as being food-insecure. And more than 20 percent of our children live in food-insecure homes. And the other thing we certainly didn't anticipate, is that the food we're producing with that industrial food system, is not healthy wholesome food, it's making people sick. There's a whole range of health issues, that are going through the ceiling in terms of costs and incidence that are related to the American diet. You can track the increase, the incidence of those back to when we began to industrialize agriculture. So we started off with something that made sense and I don't hold it against the farmers that got into that system, I don't hold it against the educators, what I hold against is people that refused to see the fact that, that system failed to do what we designed it to do. When I was a supporter of industrial agriculture, I knew that when we had specialized standardized consolidation that, that meant fewer farmers. The idea was that we were creating off-farm jobs that were higher paying than farming had been. But then during the farm financial crisis of the 1980s, I began to question a lot of the economics that I had been taught. I couldn't understand why these farmers would commit suicide when they lost their farm. Then I began to realize that they were so closely connected to that farm, that losing a farm was losing themselves. It wasn't just a job. We were taking away the lives of people, and we were destroying the social lives of rural communities. We were destroying cultures. We were destroying values that were far more important than anything we ever gained from the economic efficiency of agriculture. Sustainability, ultimately is an ethical issue. There's no economic reason to do anything for some person or some future generation, other than, it's the right thing to do. We need to realize that we owe a debt to those of the past that created the opportunities that we have today, and we can only repay that debt to people of the future. But with every payment of that debt, our life becomes better. Because we fulfill a part of our purpose for being here. [Marty] My understanding is that I'm approaching the age of the average farmer. Upper 50s. And here in the Midwest, you don't see every little farming community, you know, bustling and being vibrant and surviving. So, many of the conventional folks, even in our community, they're having a hard time telling their kids to stay on the farm, and... even having enough income for them to be able to make a life there. Shirley, you're awake and early. -Yeah, can you believe it? -No. [Marty] And that's where Kris and I really began to think about founding an organization that worked as a group, so that there were opportunities for folks who wish to stay on their farms. That's what we did in 2005 by creating the Stewards of the Land. Part of what I wanted to do tonight is try to... understand what everybody wants to do, and how we can work together so that we're not all doing it at the same time. Dose that make sense? The Stewards group works together as a co-operative model, marketing their own things, In that way, when our chefs are looking at what's on the list, they're not getting emails from 25 different farms, they're getting it from one group of farmers. How many of you would like to grow spinach? Shirley, okay. We're all doing it chemical free. We're trying to create better soils. If it absolutely doesn't work, it doesn't work, then he's gonna have to serve okra or something else. Building that co-operative model, has allowed us to expand exponentially. We'd have need for 40 cases of sweet corn delivered on July 8th. If they don't mind if it's frozen... -[Marty] Yeah. -That's really great. I'm Beth Rinkenberger. Doug and I have Garden Gate Farm by Fairbury, Illinois, and we've been in the Stewards group since 2008. [Doug] Having been raised on a farm, that's all I've ever known since I was five. To me there's no better way of life. We actually kept growing four to five different colored carrots here. When I got in touch with the Stewards Of The Land, I could see that we could use what we have here for what Marty was wanting. At that point, I was excited to be able to find my niche on this farm. You should have seen the look on the local farmer's face when I told him that we were picking lambsquarter and sending it to Frontera. To the tune of 40 pounds a week for a while. Couldn't believe it, 'cause they'd spray Roundup and kill it. The April meeting of the Stewards of the Land was held at the Zschech's home Kelly welcomed all who were present and the old minutes were read by me. To make a living on a small family farm, you have to have people that are willing to buy your product [Doug] Without the Stewards and the health marketing, we wouldn't have had the connections. I was super impressed that the Dwight crew worked together this week, and coalesced all their orders and Sheryl brought them. That's really great. [woman] Marty won't say this, but he has changed the entire face of local food in the Chicago area. Not only getting that food to Chicago, but teaching the farmers that what they do is valuable. [Marty] You all think you don't have anything, but we went to 26 different restaurants and we carried product from 16 different farms this week. That's amazing! [Donna] He just hated seeing farms dying and in trying to save his own farm he's managed to save a whole lot of other farms in this area. [Marty] If we've done a good job of instilling the idea of working together, can you imagine what this community could look like in 20-30 years. [jubilant instrumental music playing] Talk about food security, and talk about... economic development. We've done it from within. You used to know your farmer, you didn't need a label. You know, you knew who provided your food for you. But for those who go into a grocery store and never get to meet the farmer, they're trusting that label. And sustainable... Everything's sustainable now. You know, how is it that your pasta is sustainable, and again, how is it that your blouse is sustainable, you know, tell me. Sustainable for us was the day that I was able to retire from nursing and work on the farm full-time. [man 10] Some consumers wanna feel as if they're supporting, you know, their local small farmers. Some consumers feel that it's more sustainable. Some consumers believe that it's tastier and fresher if it's grown locally. But what isn't clear is "What is local?" On average, we found that people set about a 100 miles. Processors and retailers, they think if it's a day's drive, but, if Tropicana imports concentrate from Brazil, and makes the juice in Florida, and sends it to Georgia, is that local? [gripping instrumental music playing] I don't know. If you have a very effective package, every single customer gets exposed to that package billboard. And some of them buy it. And when they finally use it it's sitting in front of them, They have an opportunity to look at the whole package, and we compare that to showing a 15-second commercial at nine o'clock at night. Packaging is where the excitement is. Because it's lasting. It hits everybody. It hits you again and again and again. And so you're seeing more persuasive messages on those packages. There's something just inherently good about all-natural. And I always say, cyanide is all-natural. The food industry doesn't provide the complete story. I noticed that there are fewer calories in a slice of bread. But there are also thinner slices of bread. When someone says 'low-fat", they quite often are high in something else. Like carbs. I mean, if you're low in fat, low in carbs, then what the hell, there's nothing left in the product. Today they're focusing more... on what products don't have, than what products do have. [Mark B.] I think the biggest trend is "gluten free." Gluten free oat meal, or gluten free rice, or whatever None of which had gluten in them ever to begin with. [John S.] If you ask me what's the single biggest nutrition problem we have in America, it's that the consumer really isn't sure what they should or shouldn't do. And everyone, is focused on what is in their best interest to tell people. It's a brand new research to tell you about... [female newscaster 1] Are these foods making us sick? [female newscaster 2] Fiber and omega-3s... -Eat more soy. -Superfoods... Soy is bad. [woman 2] Basic nutrition advice could not be more boring. Eat your veggies, don't eat too much junk food. Come on, nobody wants to hear that. It's much more interesting to hear that some additive is either going to make you live forever, or kill you immediately. That's much more fun to read about. Food companies are deeply invested in trying to promote a favorable image so that people will buy their products. They're very focused and they've got a lot of money to spend. [man 11] Right now, the Robert Wood Johnson Foundation is spending more money on the child obesity problem than any other agency or government in the world. About a $100 million a year. The food industry spends a 100 million dollars a year by January 4th, just marketing just unhealthy foods, just to children. [Marty] Summer it's a season that's coming fast. You're watching everything just green up around you. Intensely green. All different colors of green. And the sunlight hours are really long, you get long days, short nights. It's a time of... like intensity, lots of intensity. It's the bounty that we've been waiting for. We try to pick our greens in the mornings when it's still fairly cool out so they don't get all wilty. This week, our delivery list we're taking snow peas, turnips, agretti, fennel flowers just a whole menage of really kind of weird stuff. They're green beans but they're called empress green beans. Empress is the kind. When they start to get that size, they get the seeds in 'em, that's only when they're too big. These are the best ones, these little guys. They're the best ones. This is one of our trade-up jobs. Will hates doing beans so... I'll say, "Okay, you do the garlic, you dig the garlic and I'll do the beans," because I don't like to dig the garlic. I don't like picking beans at all. Marty gets out of a lot of stuff he doesn't like. [Marty] On a small, diversified farm, it's important to have great communication with your co-workers. We try out best to support each other as best we can. However, they think that I get the cushy jobs. [Will] I don't know if Dad tries to get out of a lot of things. He does get out of a lot things, but I don't know if it's on purpose or not. Milling is not necessarily getting out anything, we don't like milling, so he can stand in the mill room and do all that. He does a lot. How much are you talking, a week? But he really enjoys talking on the phone and emailing. [Marty] The job is to get it done. Maybe not quite to everybody's liking all the time, but we do get it done. I did get to help her pick beans yesterday, you know. [somber instrumental music playing] It's not just about us, it's not about Spence Farm, it's not about Marty, Kris, and Will. It's about creating an awareness that we all are engaged and reliant on farms, from where our food comes from. When we began we were taking product to the local grocery store, and one day, one of our neighbors that lives about four miles over, she stopped us, and she says, "Don't stop doing what you do, you're keeping me alive." And she says, "I've got cancer. I buy as much stuff as I can possibly get from you guys because I know it's chemical-free, it's healthy and it's good for me, and you're keeping me alive." It's even more important for us at that point, to realize the scope of what we're doing and why we're doing it, and to do the very, very best that we can possibly do. It's a noble calling to be able to provide food for your fellow human beings. [birds chirping] We had Greg Wade from Publican Quality Bakery, come down and help us. We welcome the extra help anytime, honestly. [Greg] I like visiting Spence Farm as often as I can. It removes me from the hustle and bustle of Chicago, and it strips away all of that superfluous nonsense that for some reason, matters here. If Marty has a bunch of tomato stakes to pound in, you know, I'll go down and help him. [Marty] Our chefs that come, they're getting to reconnect with the farm in such a way that it's really hands in the dirt, and it gives us the opportunity to explain why we do things a certain way. Along the road there, we've got red clover. -We'll probably put that into buckwheat. -[Greg] Okay. But it you plan on using buckwheat... My relationship with Marty is one of the most important relationships I've ever developed. As I was learning how to bake with local, fresh milled wheats, and other whole grains, he was also learning how to grow them and together we were kind of learning how to store and mill them and there's been a pretty dynamic process from there. We're both inspiring each other to be better. This is the White Sonora here. This is amazing. Have you looked at it close? -You know I have tiller in them -Is it, really? It's amazing! [Marty] Greg's interested in lots of ancient grains spelled to different oats, to different heirloom wheats many, many different kinds of ingredients that he could utilize. [Greg] I like the story about the einkorn as well. It took a lot of searching to find it. I'm glad that you did though. I think it's important for us as bakers, for us as a community like, you know, I just want this around. [Marty] This year, we're growing an ancient, ancient variety of wheat called einkorn. It's a variety that goes back 10,000 some years. You know, this is something that really has benefit to a lot of folks. It does. I mean, like I was able to make a really tasty bread out of it like, awesome texture, awesome flavor, and have it still be fully gluten-less and we fed it to gluten intolerant people and they were completely fine. If einkorn is able to be used by folks who have this gluten sensitivities, Greg can turn that einkorn into an amazing bread. And all of a sudden, we've opened up a new world of local nutrient dense, ancient grain flavors to folks who are missing that. -This is exciting stuff. -[Greg] I'm so stoked. [Dan] If we really want to change the food system, talking about vegetables and fruits is not gonna cut it. It's important But fruits and vegetables represent about six percent of our agriculture. Grains represent about 75 percent of our agriculture. Our land use. [captivating instrumental music playing] The western world was built on wheat. Just as South America was built on corn, and Asian countries for the most part were built on rice. But at the 60 million acres of wheat, we grow very few varieties, it is completely flavorless and completely nutrition-less. Changing the food system means, changing the way we think about wheat. [woman 3] Modern wheat is bred to have identical traits in each plant, and that enables a farmer who is growing hundreds of thousands of acres on a maker farm, control exactly when to harvest, exactly when to irrigate, and exactly the amount of chemicals to apply. But imagine you're a robber, and you have a key, you can get maybe into one house, but you can't get into the next house and you can't the next house. Imagine you're a pathogen, and all the house locks are uniform. You get into one, you can get into all of them. That is the danger of uniformity. Despite the vast biodiversity, of landrace wheat, that has evolved for millennia and millennia, who of us today has heard of all these landrace wheats? Who of us knows what a landrace is? So... take the cotton out off our eyes. We have to realize we've been sold to Kroc. And we don't have to buy in, to a globalized industrial food system. [solemn instrumental music playing] A landrace is a population of genetic diversity. Year by year, generation by generation, farmers selected and saved the seeds of plants that did best in that locality, but, farmers never selected from uniformity. Every landrace is a mixture. You see movement, sun and light and air is going into the plants that are varying in heights and if we could go under the ground, we would see all kinds of teaming biological activity. Earthworms in soil, and mycorrhizae. It's a teaming farm ecosystem. We're standing in the einkorn fields of Klaas Martens who is a... wise and experience organic farmer. And Klaas and I are working together to restore almost extinct landrace and heritage grains and ancient grains. By visiting various countries, I was able to collect einkorn from Bulgaria and the Caucasus and Turkey, where einkorn is originally from. And I trialled this diversity of einkorn genotypes on my farm, selected the best, and I gave Klaas Martens a handful. Klaas pulled this plant out. This is one plant. We just want to count the tillers. [Klaas] We hand-harvested that first little bit, and we saw an increase of many hundreds to one. If we set 25 seeds times 33, [Eli] How much is that? That'd be 800 seeds. And the next year we had enough to seed any amount we wanted to. The increase was manifold. Seven or eight hundred to one increase. Which is also a stark contrast to our modern wheats where, if you get the 20 to one increase, you're doing good, thirty to one, is bragging rights. So modern wheat, typically you'd plant 30 seeds per square foot? -Yes. -And einkorn, one? -One or two. -One or two? Yes. Which is... Doesn't work well for the seed seller. -Modern wheat-- -Looks great for the farmer. Yes. Modern wheat is great for the seed company. Einkorn is the dawn of agriculture. At the end of the last ice age, early farmers were discovering this grain. But I keep finding myself digressing when I talk about einkorn, because it's not just the one crop, it's the system. If we had a modern wheat field, the farmer believes this field is the system, but he's not thinking. It includes land in North Africa where the phosphorous was mined, parts of Canada where the potassium was mined, and all the fuel that moved all of it. That's right. [Klaas] Every agronomic problem that we face on our farm, has a coat solution that comes in a jug, is poisonous and costs a lot of money. I don't call that a solution. I've also found that every one of those problems can be dealt with by improving and increasing the amount of biodiversity. We first started running this farm about 20 years ago, I think. And the previous renter came to me and he said, "Let me tell you something about that farm, I've got to warn you, nothing grows there, nothing except weeds." It had been farmed in an exploitive way, They were harsh on the soil life and we look at this einkorn, it seems to be right at home, in this hard, clayey soil. So it's fixing the problem. And one of my observations from farming, is that whenever we have a species be dominant, it's generally the one that's the right one for the conditions. And when we have a weed-takeover a field, it's quite often nature taking a problem we created and trying to fix it for us. Only, we don't make any money and don't feed ourselves while nature's trying to fix our mistakes. We're at a crossroads, and I think we need to go back to what these early farmers did. If nothing else, use the crops they used for the benefits they had to the soil. They're part of what makes agriculture work. They're part of what keeps people healthy and well-fed. But we've separated agriculture into, agro and culture. We have a real need to reintegrate that. [Eli] The exciting potential to combine the rich flavor and health of landrace grains, with the Artisan bread movement today, is unlimited. We have a true opportunity to change our grain food system, our bread system from this industrialized monster. Yeah, she's gonna finish up these, I'm gonna final shape fruit and nut. And then she and I are gonna get on sours. Right now, we service about 30 restaurants. We do about 2000 pounds of sour dough in a week, about 600 pounds of multi-grain, for a small artisan bakery like this is... It's kind of a lot. How can the staple product of so many cultures and religions have sustained life for thousands of years, and now all of a sudden in 2015, it's not. You know? But look at the ingredient list on a loaf of bread, packaged in the store. There's 50 ingredients in it and half of them you can't pronounce and the other half are probably poisonous. You know, now look at my bread, with its five ingredients. We're in this huge celebration of everything that's going on in the culinary world. Chefs are like rockstars these days. Just 'cause this is whole-grain, doesn't mean it's not tasty. But, we wouldn't be able to do it without the farmer. Really, the best thing that I can do as a baker is to take Marty's really well grown grains and just not mess with them. I've got two starters here. This one from a farm. You can see all the bubbles on top, you can see all the life, you know, looks really nice and fluffy, and the commodity one is just really kind of lifeless and cardboardy and stale. A lot of conventional bread is from dough to loaf in about four hours, put that away. Our sour doughs and breads take about 60 hours. Now watch your heads as you come down here. We start soakers and preferments on one day. This is our sour dough soaker. This will start fermenting naturally. Good bread in the bakehouse starts here. We come in the following day, and we incorporate them into a dough, usually with some sour dough starter for leavening. We bulk-ferment them for about four hours before shaping them, then those will ferments overnight, in the cooler. So we got our sour dough, multi-grain, olive in here, this is using Marty's glenn wheat. Everything gets baked and then cooled and then sent out in the morning. It's calling singing when you actually hear the bread crackle as it cools. And one of the most rewarding sounds I've come to enjoy. [Eli] When natural fermentation happens, you don't need to do anything, you just need to let nature come alive. The micro organisms are digesting the bread through fermentation and making the nutrients biologically available to the human being. Here are some of the glenn berries. We'll toast 'em and put 'em in bread, we'll soak 'em and sprout 'em, we'll make power bars, that sort of thing. [Eli] Grains have a natural anti-nutrient and if you make flour out of grain and don't ferment it, you're getting this anti-nutrient in your system, which is preventing the absorption of the nutrients in the flour. [classical piano music playing] [Marty] Greg is probably one of the most amazing bakers that I've ever met. Greg is also one of the most passionate bakers that I've ever met. [Greg] I was with my dad the other day, and he had all these pictures of me when I was like, five, baking bread. Should have just realized it then but, it's been a thing for a while, I think. I love pretty much everything about bread making. I love the feel of the dough, I love smelling the grains. If you're on point, it's an incredibly rewarding experience. You get to smell it and hear it crack open in the oven, and you just feel good about it. What we're experiencing is a bread renaissance. We're realizing just how much we've screwed up as consumers, and farmers, and chefs, and now we're finally turning that all around. [Marty] It's August 16th, time for us to plant some of the fall-root crops. We had a new calf born on the 3rd of July, and a couple days later, we had a litter of pigs, guinea hogs, born. They all look good. Things are coming along really well for the animals too. In the beginning, our whole farm experience never really included the livestock piece of it, and I never would have set out to be a pig farmer. But as we began this whole idea of recreating the family farm, we realized that we wanted to have some type of livestock component. The American guinea hog was, in the mid 1800s, one of the most common homestead hogs in the American Southeast. It really kind of fell out of favor as we began industrializing pork production. In 2007, there were fewer than 200 registered guinea hogs left in the world. At that point, they were more rare than panda bears. We began with a seven-month old young boar, named Sam. He's kind of the grand daddy of all of our pigs at this point. Today, we have nearly 50 pigs. [Will] We put our pigs, two pigs per pen, and each pen is six foot by 10 foot, and we move those twice a day. We limit them to that because they will overeat and get too fat, like a human, you eat too much, you get fat and you're not healthy. [Marty] Our pigs are on alfalfa pasture. We don't have confined area of manure, so we're able to fertilize some of our fields that will have small grains on, in the years to come. During the winter time our pigs are outside in their pens and we deep-bed them with straw, feed them hay. Their temperaments change so much after you get them on the hay rather than grain, they calm way down. [Marty] Come spring, when they're ready to go back out on pasture, we'll take that hay and straw pack and create our own compost. So, we're able to utilize a lot of what that pig produces. It's not about trying to become the largest guinea hog producer in the United States and the Midwest. It's about producing the best quality guinea hog pork that we can. And to give those guinea hogs the best quality of life that we can. [woman 4] I think a lot of people still believe that their eggs and their meat and their diary products are coming from sort of the traditional family farm. You know, we sort of think of it as the backbone of America, and we assume that's where our food is coming from. Which is of course, quite different from the reality. [John I.] These large scale confinement animal feeding operations or CAFOs are the epitome of industrial agriculture. [Nicolette] You will have thousands, or in the case of egg laying hens, even over a million animals in one building. Because they're so crowded, they're continuously feeding various forms of medications, often antibiotics. [John I.] A large percentage of the livers from beef and pork, have cysts on them, they're enlarged, and the reason they're diseased is that they're feeding in these high intensive, high energy rations. So these animals that we're eating, they're not healthy animals but they're profitable animals. [Nicolette] You bring the feed often from very long distances, and you then have this enormous waste stream coming out the other end. That ends up in the water supply. [John I.] One diary cow produces much biological waste as much raw sewage as 20 people. So if you've got a 1000 cow diary operation, then you've got the equivalent to a city of 20,000 people. You wouldn't take the raw sewage from 20,000 people and spread it on people's back yards, you know, spread it in the fields. And that's basically what we're doing with the manure from these hog operations, these cattle operations and things of that nature. Any regulations that we have on these CAFOs or any other industrial farming operations are regulations that had been accepted by what I call, the agricultural establishment. Their regulations give them legal permission to do things that we know are polluting the natural environment and threatening public health. This is something that really needs to be changed. [enchanting instrumental music playing] [Nicolette] There's a lot of wisdom that was handed down over the generations that was sort of tossed out in around 1950, about learning from the way nature functions Plants and animals work together, diversity thrives. Nothing is wasted, everything is recycled. Things have to be restored continuously and if you don't have that mindset, then you're not gonna be part of a sustainable food system. When I was a senior attorney for a Waterkeeper Alliance, I was working for Bobby Kennedy Jr., we were suing and criticizing industrial food production, but we felt like we needed to hold up examples of the right way to do things. And we learned that the Niman Ranch network was a good model both, for the farmer and for the animal and that it was producing really good quality food. And eventually, I met Bill Niman who's the founder of Niman Ranch. Come cattle! Come cattle! [Nicolette] This was the guy who was kind of a hero to me, because he was doing something very different from mainstream meat production. Come on girls, come cattle. In the late sixties I arrived in this community. There was a bunch of people that wanted to get off the grid, who wanted to raise their own food and do everything we possibly could without relying upon the system which we, at that time, didn't have much faith in or trust. [pleasant instrumental music playing] [Nicolette] As I got to know him personally, I fell in love with him and eventually accepted his marriage proposal. For a vegetarian and an environmental lawyer to marry a meat producer-rancher, that's obviously... That says a lot, right? There is one of the descendants of our first cattle, Nicolette, of course, describes it, as one of Girlfriend's great, great granddaughters. I can remember well the first animal we slaughtered and the effect it had upon me. It did inspire me to feed people and I applied my entrepreneurial energy to growing this business, to feed more people, one animal at a time and after several years, it became one farm at a time. [Nicolette] There are many things that distinguish the Niman Ranch pork from the mainstream pork, and the more people learn about the way mainstream pork is raised, the more dissatisfied they are with it. One of the things that we'd been talking about for a long time was having the cattle raised entirely on grass. And we'd been experimenting with that for a number of years, before he left Niman Ranch. That was the origin of B.N. Ranch, which is the company that we have now. Our mission now is to prove that grass-fed beef can be every bit as good as grain-finished beef, and it's much better for the environment, the animals, and are really for the people who eat it. This is rye, high energy, carbohydrate grain that the cattle will harvest by walking around and just clipping these seeds, in the same way they would eat a high energy grain ration in a feedlot. So when you harvest grass-fed beef, you wanna harvest them when they've had exposure for several weeks to this really high energy grass. Just like a bear gorging on salmon, just before it goes into hibernation. [Nicolette] Just in terms of how much land exists on the earth, between 30 and 40 percent is grassland. If we think about the world food system, cattle are playing an incredibly important role because they're using that 30-40 percent that in the Unites States about 85 percent of it is not land that can be used for crop production anyways. Even those people who choose not to eat meat, it's still important to maintain this landscape. And by the way, if you want to sequester carbon this is the best possible way to do it. [Nicolette] Where you have good grazing, it actually stimulates vegetative growth, and it keeps the soil moister, but also because the hooves are trampling organic matter back into the soil leading to more carbon. Going into the soil and staying the soil. They are thriving on this dry, cellulosic material that we cannot eat and survive. These animals can convert this into really wholesome, complete food for human consumption. [Nicolette] The kind of farming that Bill's been involved with for along time has often been characterized as niche food. Neither Bill or I are really interested in being part of a niche. We want to change the way food is produced in the United States today. We want to change the way people are eating in the United States today. [Bill] I'm really hopeful that what we're doing today, everybody else will copy I don't care if they put us out of business I will celebrate that other people are doing what we're doing now and talking about it the way we're doing now. [Nicolette] You've got to love it. And if you do love it, then, there's no better life, I think for us or for our children. We look at the opportunities that they have everyday, it's a wonderful way for children to be raised. [Bill] We can't torture animals for food and we can't continue to poison the environment. It's just not a sustainable model. [solemn instrumental music playing] [Marty] Moving into the fall season is kind of like... You better hurry up and get this done, because the end is near. Once the ground freezes, it's about game over. It's also a period of abundance. When we think of Thanksgiving, we think of this huge table spread out with this abundance of produce and grains and meats. And sometimes, the weather will change, and you have to leave and walk away because that's as far as you can get. There's a lot to pay attention to. Some of it's luck, some of it's gonna be skill, and some of it's just gonna... maybe be, by the grace of God, that you get by. But it's all part of the experience. So this morning, as on many small farms, you become not just a farmer but a mechanic, and it's a good thing we have Will to be our dedicated mechanic. I'm very proud of our son, Will. Probably the greatest joy I have is knowing that I get to spend almost everyday with him. We work together side by side, we dream together, we struggle together on many things. I have just the hugest respect for him and who he's become and is becoming. [Will] I thought when I was a little kid, I was gonna be a woodworker 'cause that's what Dad did. Pretty much just whatever Dad was doing, is what I wanted to do. Whenever we got to spend time together, it was always doing stuff that he was really passionate about and just being able to spend time doing what he loved, always seemed like a wonderful way to spend your life. [Marty] It's important to be able to get to a certain point in your life and know that what you've done is not just for you. And that you're able to pass the seed on, and those seeds can be planted for many, many generations. Hopefully it will go on for a very, very long time. -[man] So if we can shorten this up... -[Marty] Yeah. Get a stronger frame, and... Gets you a little sturdier plant, let's say. [Marty] Today we have Gary Reding from Advancing Eco Ag. He's been to the farm a number of times this year. [Gary] This tells you the genetic potential of this particular variety, so, you wanna memorize that. [Marty] On the farm here, we're constantly looking to improve the conditions of our soils. Making it such that, we have a sustainable future. You got quite a variation of plant health here. but yet, you've got one that's almost defoliated and you have to ask yourself, "Why me?" [Gary] One of the biggest problems we face as farmers today, is insect and disease pressure. And one of our biggest fears is losing our crop to these pests. In this particular plant, that insect knew -That, that one was compromised, yeah. -...that, that one was compromised through some significant difference in roots zone or whatever, but he came and got that plant, and didn't even touch a leaf, or the one next to it. And many people don't look at plants as having an immune system, but they're no different than us, as humans. We have an immune system and when it's compromised, we become more susceptible to many things. Likewise in a plant. If it's not got a fully balanced nutritional plain, those insects can detect it, and matter of fact, that's their purpose in life. [Marty] Farming is challenging, and if we can understand the whole picture, we'll have some amazing things for people to eat. It's got a little more balance to the flavor, doesn't it? [Gary] I've worked for John Kempf, who is the founder of Advancing Eco Agriculture out of Middlefield, Ohio. He comes from one of the largest Amish communities in the United States. Came out of school at the ripe, old age of eighth grade, entered into the farming industry at the age of 13, and started asking the question, "Why?" [grave instrumental music playing] [John K.] The challenge with our current agricultural models is that they're based on a warfaring paradigm of search and destroy. Identify a specific pathogen, identify a specific pest, and figure out how you can kill it. And if they first weapon of choice is not successful, simply get a bigger bomb. Today, there's a lot of discussion about sustainability in agriculture. We cannot have a sustainable agriculture today. Our souls have become too degraded, our plants are too unhealthy. We first need to have a conversation about a regenerative agriculture. A model of agriculture in which plants developed tremendous resiliency to climate extremes, to climate stresses, to all types of disease and insect pests, and as a result of those things... farms become more economically viable. [playful instrumental music playing] Starting in 2013, we began doing a lot of trialling with plant sap analysis which is the equivalent of a blood analysis for people. When we look at the sap analysis data, we are able to see precisely which nutrients are deficient, which nutrients are in excess, and often do we find that it is actually the excesses that are creating the deficiencies. If you had excess of potassium, it will create a calcium deficiency and you cannot fix the problem by putting on more calcium. The only way we can manage that, is by looking at the other nutrients that reduce the potassium's dominance. Manganese serves as a potassium regulator, and when a plant has adequate levels of manganese, it will tend to down-regulate the surplus potassium and allow the calcium to flow into the fruit. What we are implementing on farms is a fundamentally different perspective on how to manage plant nutrition and how to manage diseases and insects. The transition can happen immediately. It doesn't happen on a farm, it happens in the mind of a farmer. This block, having just been recovered last year for the first time, it did pretty good, would you say? Yeah, I think the fruit quality is higher here this year than last year. My name is Mike Omeg, I'm a fifth generation cherry orchardist. My great, great grandparents started these orchards and I'm continuing them. What really triggered me to start investigating was that we were having a complete focus on just the canopy of the tree. And we were missing half the tree. Really quickly I got three worms. They're moving all this organic material into the rooting zone of the tree, where it can do a lot of good. One of the important things when you try something new on a farm, is to look at the return on investment. Not bad. That'll make a cherry grower smile. We're actually making about $1800 more an acre, after our expenses on the Advancing Eco Ag's blocks than we are on our conventionally managed blocks because they're higher quality. There's a good canker. [Gary] I think you can get a good shot of this. [Mike] This is a good example of a bacterial canker that has... We say dried up. There's a disease in cherries that is a devastating disease and it's one that's faced all over the world. It's called bacterial canker. I just cut into this and I can see a pocket filled with dried sap. If this canker was active when I cut into that, that sap would just come flying out of there. The incidence of bacterial canker now is very minimal in that block and dare I say zero. I was having to actually remove entire orchards because of this disease. For us to be able to stop it with our nutrition program, is really remarkable. Our fruit has become more resilient to environmental pressures like rain, like heat events, and we've seen that our fruit is pick-able and marketable when unfortunately some of our neighbors fruit that follow a purely conventional management, is not. [Gary] I was a customer of John's before I ever came to work for him and it all sounded really good. But almost unbelievable that you could build soil health from where it would be self-sustaining, just like a forest of oak trees in the woods. And then when I was looking to work for him, I thought, "Well, if that's the case, what's the future of AEA if we're working ourselves out of a job?" And he says, "We've got a lot of acres to overcome yet." [classical instrumental music playing] We're in a potato field in the desert Southwest of the United States. If you look down below, you'll see a lot of dead leaves. That's not from insects or disease. That's from a five and a half hour long freeze that was devastating, they browned-off, they died but within three weeks they were 18 inches tall once again. This particular plant had 19 to 20 harvest-able tubers. Normally they'll run 10 to 12 tubers, so we're looking at nearly double the number of tubers per plant. This crop here was tolerant to a five and a half hour, 26-degree temperature freeze, that normally would have obliterated any other potato crop anywhere. But because it had plant health, it expanded its adaptability to a wider range of environment. And if you take that concept and spread that across the world, there's only been so many acres of tillable land ever produced, and that has been shrinking down by desertification, loss of organic matter, loss of water resources. So, one of John's long-term visions, is to expand the irrigable land and regenerate that. And then by doing so, increasing the amount of acres we can actually grow nutrient-dense food from. And that will help feed the world. [John K.] It is my vision that these regenerative agricultural models that we have developed, become the mainstream model around the world. [Mark B.] How do we improve the health of our citizens? How do we treat our land more sustainably? These questions are answerable. That's not unanswerable stuff. But you first have to state your intent. We don't have a national food policy. There are countries that do. There are countries that say, "Food is gonna be produced to contribute to the well-being of all of our citizens." That would be an excellent starting point. [Nicolette] Food is really unique issue, because all of us eat, and there's just this excitement about rebuilding the food system. [Rick] We're trying to reconnect to our food supply and we have to do it one little step at a time. And I don't know if you guys understand how important Spence Farm is in that. Because these people are not just farmers, but they're visionaries. [John I.] We have a great opportunity to recreate a food system that's fundamentally better: socially, ethically, economically than anything that we've ever known. Sustainability is not just about my children and my grandchildren, it's about everybody's children and grandchildren, not just for seven generations, but for 70 generations. The whole idea of doing something to pass on, to pay it forward, to make the community a better place, that's what all this is about. [Rick] If our culture is going to continue to thrive, it has to be on quality of life. And that's what the farmers give to us. Measuring wealth is not always about counting your dollars. Sustainability is measured in a lot of different ways. For me, personally I think, its... the relationships that we have between ourselves and our friends and our clients, that makes me feel very rich. |
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