|
Tsukiji Wonderland (2016)
1
Theodore C. Bestor Social Cultural Anthropologist Harvard University Professor Besides all the fish Tsukiji is an information gathering source. A walk through the market lets you know that the season changed. Japanese food is very seasonal and the changing of the seasons is first seen here. It's not that Tsukiji's the best in the world. There's nothing in its league. It's the only one. Nothing in the world compares to it. I bet you! The Japanese have tremendous respect for seafood. Tsukiji is based on an appreciation of fresh seafood. - Where are they migrating to? - Sado. Already? I won't recommend these to you. I stopped selling the milt today. It's available but the quality's not good. - You have sardines? - Yes, they're getting better. But they're still spongy on the back. Our intermediate wholesalers know fish. No other place has so many experts. I'm convinced about that. The intermediate wholesalers are knowledgeable. They know how to grade fish. They auction and resell the seafood to the retailers in a prompt and effective manner. There are professional fishermen, the professionals who deliver and those who evaluate the fish. And the chefs are at the end of the line. Wholesalers choose the fish best suited to the needs of each retailer or restaurant. So we get to eat good fish. The wholesalers' choices are based on knowledge they've accumulated. They take pride in their work. Your last fish was great. I'd do anything to get one for you, if I saw another one like that. The wholesalers are very proud to be a part of the market's long tradition. It's not just about how much they make out of a deal. The priority for most of them is to provide quality fish. They aren't focusing on making big profits. That isn't a source of pride for them. I usually show up at I AM. A little earlier before the long weekend. I usually show up at I AM. A little earlier before the long weekend. Good morning. You have 700 boxes? Great. How's the quality? We get orders a night before. Now, I am sorting the customers' orders for fish. 20 grilled eel to L.A. I have an order from Los Angeles. It's 8:30 AM in L.A. I don't call them too early but they call me up any time of the day. What can I do? Some wholesalers come earlier, like IO PM-. It's early but everything depends on how much I get done now. What we do is simple. It's the same every day. Daisuke Yamazaki Intermediate Wholesaler I process fish as soon as I arrive. So I want the customers to come and get it while it's still fresh. I always come at 2:30 AM. We process our orders the night before. I check the orders and figure out how to deal with them. There's 300 jack mackerels but the order's for 250-. - Pack 250 of them and put the rest aside. - I'll remove them. Looking good. Every fish has a different value. The wholesalers evaluate and sort the fish. We auction the fish and sort it according to the clients' needs. That's our responsibility. Intermediate wholesalers liaise for the clients. Toichiro lida Intermediate Wholesaler Fishermen risk their lives to catch good fish. But not everyone appreciates that quality. So we have to find suitable customers who understand the fishes' value. This is not a local market. So all sorts of fish come here from all over Japan. We are here to pick the right fish for my clients-. We have a collective approach to our service. We have a collective approach to our service. When you walk down the aisles you see wholesalers standing at their tables. And the intermediate wholesalers walk around asking about fish prices. After a short interaction the wholesaler puts a sold tag on the fish. That's good! Don't you have a box of 30? Oops... It's not about being able to tell good fish from bad. It's about fulfilling the customers' needs. The quality and prices of fish change daily. That's where a good wholesaler makes the right choices. The best seafood in the world comes to Tsukiji-. Mamoru Sakai Intermediate Wholesaler Which allows us to provide fish steadily to our customers. Which allows us to provide fish steadily to our customers. Each lot is individually numbered. We wholesalers can spot a good fish. It's different every year. Tsushima fish is good now but next year it could change. It changes every day. I only know conger eels. I wouldn't last a day Auction table A" I check the flavor first. The color, size, dryness... I use all my senses to evaluate it. I use all my senses to evaluate it. The market deals with 20,000 boxes a day. Sea urchins come from across Japan and the world. Up north from Russia and Hokkaido. Peru and Argentina. A lot from Chile. From both coasts of America. Sea urchins" Naturally we're totally focused at auctions. You can't just stand and watch if you want good products to sell. You evaluate the products closely. And you seize the opportunity! I love this work. I'm 100% committed to Tsukiji. It's fun. The first time I bid I was 22. I still get nervous just before the auction. When I'm depending on a bid and there's only one my knees shake. There's none coming tomorrow. Really? I'll buy it. They have quite a few cases today. The price will go down. We're rivals. So we deceive each other. I'll say something negative about fish I want. I pretend fish aren't selling when they are. The others do the same so it all works out. It's good. I'll take it. We all play games. We trick each other because we're desperate. Everyone has memo pads with jottings in them. It's shorthand notes. I know which ones are good. If you want something, you can't be stingy about 2,000 yen. It's competitive. It's like a sumo ring. All sellers say their product is the best. Toshiaki lshizuka Intermediate Wholesaler So you put them in the ring to test it- That's the market-. I'm nothing but grateful. Good fish earns more money which is an incentive. So fishermen try their luck with us. Hiroyuki Hirai Intermediate Wholesaler I'm grateful for their faith in us. That's what Tsukiji is about. I love prawns so I only want to sell them to people I like-. I love prawns so I only want to sell them to people I like-. Katsumi Morita Intermediate Wholesaler They're bigger today and wild. It's not really a work to me. I guess I'm a fool. Forget profit. - It's not about money? - No. Akihiro Oyama Intermediate Wholesaler In good and bad times we interact with one another. We communicate in person, not over computers or telephones. Which is good. Theodore C. Bestor Social Cultural Anthropologist Harvard University Professor We got some lots from Hachinohe. Go ahead and take a look. Wow, so firm. And cheap! - It's a good deal! - I hear you! They are good. 40 cases for you, thanks. They're from Aomori. They're good. This one goes to Los Angeles! Nakaoroshi = intermediate wholesalers I bid on these lots today. Look how meaty they are. One of a kind. I'll sell them. All the good fish comes to Tsukiji-. For me Tsukiji is a battlefield. It's a battle between dealers and shoppers. I have to keep fighting for good fish-. If you do well, the wholesalers treat you as an equal. Don't order from the harvesters. See it yourself and then decide. Don't order from the harvesters. See it yourself and then decide. Ren Redzepi noma - Great. - From Oita. That's small. But it's lively. Tsukiji is great. We'd have no business without it. I started accompanying him to Tsukiji early on. I thought all the stalls looked the same. The market's so huge you can get lost easily. But he wouldn't wait for his apprentices. I thought if I got lost I'd never find my way out. I had to run after him, carrying his bags. The aisles are like a maze so it's hard to keep up. In western Japan, chefs are like department stores in a way. They diversify. Their style is to employ various techniques to serve variety of dishes-. Variety is their style. Whereas Tokyo chefs specialize, like a sushi bar only serves sushi. A tempura chef improves his tempura over decades. Tokyo chefs regard themselves more as a craftsman than a cook. That artisan culture has its roots in Tsukiji. To excel at their craft they expect to work with the best ingredients-. See how it's not slimy? It'll stay that way when it's cooked. I'm meticulous with my craft- I have to be. I first visited Tsukiji when I was 30. It's been 40 years. I enter from here. We've known the conger eel vendor the longest. From before the war. The wholesaler is 3rd generation. And I'm the second. Can I see? You chose the same sized eels for me. Thank you. He picks the best eel out of 30 or 40. Sometimes he chooses the best out of 5O for me. Only they can do that. Every eel has a different face. Like people, there are faces you like. I pick fatter small faces Face size isn't everything. This one's noticeably thicker and its small face is a marker. I don't weigh them. I can just tell. Kizushi" They take time to choose eels for me and I complain if I'm not satisfied! I have about 8 wholesalers I buy from. I want a smaller one. Each stall has a specialty. Live fish, shellfish and so on. I visit certain stalls because I like the vendor. You can't go to a supermarket. I seek out the experts who work at Tsukiji. Always. Tsukiji's amazing. You know Kaiko Bridge? You cross it and anything can happen. A wholesaler once told me It's ruthless here- If you're tricked, it's your fault- In the old days there were more know-it-all customers. They went around choosing fish. They claimed to know a good fish when they saw one. Bull. You need wholesalers to choose fish for you at auctions. It's not easy. We're lucky today. There were so many abalones to choose from. I like to choose myself-. And I need the wholesalers to help me do that. When I deal with chefs who demand the best I need to work hard or else they go elsewhere. With the added push from a client we all improve. I'm tense every day. I feel sick if bad weather affects the catch. If I have an order of 50 gizzard shads to fill but there's no fish I go home sick and come back the next day in a panic. It's all worth it though. If I pull it off they'll come back for more. They deal in fish but it's also about interaction. You go back for that. This is wonderful! I bet. - That fish was great. - The best so far this year. I buy fish every day. So a good wholesaler affects my life tremendously. I want this every time! The wholesalers I deal with call me at midnight! Just when I'm closing up they call and say they've secured good fish for me. They've already started at midnight. I come before II PM and check the orders for the next day. Takashi Shiobara Intermediate Wholesaler Takashi Shiobara Intermediate Wholesaler Mackerel is tricky so I check each one of them well. To assess the quality. Is it fatty? How fatty? Slim ones can be fatty. And thick ones can be unfatty. The best way to know is by touch-. Clients have preferences. The colors of the meat they like or the firmness. Say you want a good mackerel with tender meat. If you're lucky you'd get a few out of a box of 20. What does a good wholesaler do? He sorts the fish first thing in the morning and hides the good fish. Half beaks are from lbaraki. I have some mackerels. Some good line-caught mackerels arrived from Katsuura sea. They're perfect for sushi. Maybe even too tender. I may think some fish are really good. But it's up to the customers to decide what is good for them. If you resent that, you should just quit. Give it a try! Feel them. The skin is tender. My customers determine my fate. If they do good business, they'll order more. It's a cycle. We go up and down together. We're inseparable. I owe my business to my customers. It's not my good fish that draws them, it's them who bring me fish. - Got mackerels? - Sure. - How many? - As many as you want. It might snow tomorrow. Intermediate wholesalers make a lot of effort in bad weather. Takashi Saito Sushi Saito I have yellowtails ready for you. They tell you straight when there's no fish. But they go to enormous lengths to get fish for me-. They care. They've saved me many times. - Flounders. - You saved some? They look good, huh? - From Kamogawa. - The color difference won't matter. They charge us for it but I'm happy they take care of us. They know their regular customers' needs. So we keep coming back. If they get me fish I don't need, I still buy it. We rely on them and consequently they act on our behalf. Our relationships are more important than our craft or the fish. They nurture our craft. It's part of the tradition of Japanese cuisine. Trust is what keeps Tsukiji going. Sam)" This is great. It responds to the salt. It still has energy-. The cells are still alive. Salt removes the excess water and brings out the sweetness. Like any restaurant owner I don't compromise on quality. Small compromises lead to bigger ones down the line-. We serve flounder as the first piece. To let customer savor the quality of our rice. I like fish with volume. The seller cut its spinal cord. So we can decide when to serve it. Severing the spinal cord prevents the fish from getting stiff. It delays rigor mortis. So the fish stays fresher for longer. Koji Nakanishi Intermediate Wholesaler If you don't do it, the fish flaps around before it gets stiff. It's bad if it bleeds inside. They cut the spinal cord. It runs right by the spine. They crush it to immobilize the fish. So it won't move around, bleed and get ruined. So it won't move around, bleed and get ruined. No cooking technique can save a ruined fish. In the old days quick transport and freshness added value to fish. In the old days quick transport and freshness added value to fish. Now it's all about keeping the fish pristine when harvesting and using the spinal cord treatment. The fish we eat is more processed than before. More people are involved in keeping the fish delicious. In old days, when people preserved fish it was being aged at the same time. But it was not intentional. People in the know today consciously age the fish. "Sushi Sh0" This yellowtail was aged at Tsukiji for a couple of days. We'll age it further. It's perfectly good as it is but we'll age it for one more week. It'll be like this in a week. See? Fresh yellowtail isn't as tasty. So you age it for sashimi. And you age it longer for sushi. You make it more acidic. The surface is brown. It looks nice inside. I'll work on this cut. I'll parboil and marinate it before aging it further. I match the fish's acidity with the intensity of the vinegar in my sushi rice. The food we serve must leave the customer content. A chef's pleasure shouldn't be in showing off his crafts. The pleasure should be in the customer's enjoyment. That's our purpose. The baton's passed from the fishermen to the intermediate wholesalers, to us. When the yellowtail's fatty, it's the season to grill it. So when is it good for sushi? It shouldn't be too fatty and it should be acidic and have a reddish tint. Japan's distinctive seasons give us seasonal specialities. There's the seasonal fish and the first catch of the season. People care about what fish is seasonal. My mentor once told me to think about a fish's seasonality. There are IO days in a year when fish tastes its best. Sometimes the fish's season passes before you know it. But good vendors know the season and advise the customers. Look at these shellfish. They're in season now. Dead shellfish are worthless. Their quality depends on how long they're kept alive. Harumi sushi" See the white dots? These cockle clams have eggs. They're at their best when they are bearing eggs. Some clams aren't at their best then but when they are bearing eggs They're tender and plump. Zezankyo" It's about seasons. March is icefish season so we get inquiries about them. Look at them, they're so tiny. But they're adults. Their ripe and rich taste will surprise you. Immature fish don't have such a rich flavor. Frying in batter both heats a fish directly and steams it. Frying gets rid of excess moisture and highlights the flavor. That's frying. In a bad weather some fish like sweetfish can be tricky to procure. So I'd consult intermediate wholesalers. They're mostly good. I have some of the better ones for you. Thank you! It's for you. Sweetfish season starts in June and are caught in rivers. So I get the wild fish for him. You let the charcoal settle a bit in order for the fish to get nicely seared-. These fish only live one short year. They look lean but they're vital. It's like eating the four seasons that they lived. We have a 20-year relationship. It's him I go to see not the fish he sells. Because I can rely on him. Pike congers" Pike congers are common in the west. Now there are good ones available at Tsukiji. They're in season now, from summer to autumn-. I filleted and sliced it super-finely and boiled it. I mix sieved plums with dashi stock and soy sauce and place it on top. Then I add minced shiso leaves, myoga and wasab/I In summer time, we enjoy fresh and light flavors. It's boiled hamo. Eat it while it's hot. Namiyoke shrine" Typhoon number I8 is approaching. Secure your containers. A very large typhoon is forecast to approach. It's a wonderland for me. They have things that local supermarkets don't have. Tsukiji's essential for my work. Remember the white squid? That was good! But you boiled it! It was nice and sweet... No matter what you do it's good. I know why you did it but... I shouldn't have? At first, some guys looked scary... But they were helpful when I asked questions. I get a hands-on education at Tsukiji. Saury... I just can't resist it when autumn comes. Sauries are at their best in late August, early September. Saury, mackerel, bonito barracuda and butterfish. They're all autumn fish. They're local and they taste great in autumn. Osamu Shimazu Intermediate Wholesaler ESqUISSE" Scallops arrive at ESqUISSE alive. We put them in kelp stock We put them in kelp stock which they absorb when their shells close. We sous- vide them at 53 degrees for at least 45 minutes. In France most chefs buy ingredients through middlemen. But I want to choose them myself. Are they bigger this time? They're the same size. 200 grams. Most intermediate wholesalers have been to my restaurant. In order to understand our work. To understand what we do with fish. He's the man I trust the most. We have a solid relationship. When I tell him what dish I have in mind he'll advise me on what ingredients to use. No middlemen are as knowledgeable. The Japanese say salt and plum" The Japanese say salt and plum" to describe saltiness and tartness. A magic balance of great food. So I use orange for tartness. Green peppercorn and anchovy for saltiness. Tsukiji motivates me. It's natural produce so it's unpredictable. It's fun going there. I talk to the intermediate wholesalers-. I get to observe other cooks and see what they buy-. All of that motivates me. A mysterious bond with the sea. Every Japanese has it. We have more variety of fish available in winter. We have more variety of fish available in winter. Like anglerfish and grouper. Red tilefish and butterfish. Their flesh gets firmer and fattier in the cold. Fish are fattier in winter. And they're easier to handle. There's no saving a bad fatty fish. UMiyQShiu I buy from a intermediate wholesaler I trust. Tsukiji is trustworthy especially in terms of food safety. Detoxification center" I get information about new poisonous pufferfish from them. I ask the owner of the shop to choose the best fish to buy. I only buy pufferfish from a licensed vendor at Tsukiji because I trust him. In the old days chefs bought from Tsukiji, then it was the harvesters. Now we've gone back to buying pufferfish from Tsukiji. The drastic climatic change is beyond our understanding. So we need the intermediate wholesalers' insight. So we need the intermediate wholesalers' insight. When fish spawn they begin storing fat a few months ahead of time. That's why they become fatty. - Are there good mackerels? - I handpicked some for you. Thank you. They handle so many fish they know everything. If the fish is bad they tell you. They know and suggest when is the best for each fish. Ginza Kojyu" The abdomen's glistening with fat. It'd be good for sashimi or sushi. Rosy seabass has a gelatinous part under the skin. It's unique to rosy seabass and makes it delicious. Winter fish are fatty and delicious. But in summer we don't crave the same fatty fish. Fish are different and we enjoy different fish for each season. Japan's seasonal foods are a pleasure. We come here at I AM to lay out the fish. At I I PM we unload and clean the tunas for the auction. Oma's tuna" Frozen tunas and bluefins are in different halls. Bigeyes also go to a different hall. We lay out the good ones first. The best tuna's up front. But sometimes it isn't so. Fish we want to push go in a prominent spot. To grab attention and to get a better price-. The harvesters leave their products with us. We see to it that they get a good price. T0hto Suisan Co., Ltd." Can I talk to your boss? The fish has a blemish. Wholesalers buy tunas from distributers so they want more money. The intermediate wholesalers behave more like shoppers. They want to buy good tuna for less. Tuna Department" What they both want is to expand the seafood consumption. And they all want to provide good fish to the consumers. It's pink! The quality of fish. The quality of fish. Shipping conditions and the weather's effect on tomorrow's catch. Whether I should buy today. If fish is available for the next few days I won't buy it. That's what we discuss. They're so informative. Without information I'd do no business. Wholesalers need intermediate wholesalers and vice versa. We have a symbiotic relationship I guess. I arrive at the auction hall then I walk around to see the fish. I evaluate at the same time. I check the flesh. I check the cross-section of the tail for density, texture and stickiness. The overall shape, the abdomen's thickness and so on-. I try to imagine it inside. Pale red is the ideal color. I try to envision its value. The thinner the skin, the fattier. If the fish is this fresh it'll taste like this in a week. I have the whole story in my head. It's almost delusional. Toichiro lida Intermediate Wholesaler Guys who work at Tsukiji... They live in a fish fantasy. An auction is alive and hard to gauge. In an auction the most unexpected thing could happen. In 3 minutes. I'm nervous when I go out there and ring the bell. I surprise myself with the bell. That gets me in the right mood. One bid could get you a tuna as expensive as a luxury car. We bid with our fingers- We call it spearing. If we don't win, our spear was blunt. It's from Shiogama Port in Miyagi. It weighs about I00 kilos. Caught on longline. OK, I'll push it from this side. You need a few men. The left side of the abdomen is usually first. Now the back. You turn it over and clean it. Then the right side of the abdomen, then the back. Now it's quartered. Hundreds of years ago nobody ate abdomen cuts. Now fatty cuts like otoro are in demand. The abdomen's fattier- The red meat's at the back. Otoro, the fattiest cut's from the abdomen. There are only 2 cuts with fatty meat. That's why it's expensive. This one looks good. But this looks better. This tastes better. It's all seasonal. Tunas aren't so fatty in summer. In spring they're great with a subtler taste. Tuna from different seas vary in taste. The size is also going to affect the taste. Oma, caught on longline" How they're caught also changes the taste. Some fish live in deep waters. They taste better because of the food they eat. Stress also affects the taste of the fish. Fish look good if they don't struggle on the hook but they aren't vital. I like tuna from local waters. Taste is everything. Bad looking tuna can taste good and vice versa. It's tastier if the color changes quickly. I don't sell tuna that doesn't meet my standards. That's the risk I have to take at this job-. Look at this fish! OK, this is it, guys. So fatty! From off the coast of Oma. From shallow waters. I check the color, the quality of the meat and fat. And its tenderness. I rate that over appearance. And the fat's delicacy. What do you look for in tuna? Fatty tuna melts easily. With a low melting point the fat melts at a touch. I'm blissful when I cut a tuna like that and imagine the great sushi it'll make. If it's dark here, it's dark everywhere. If it's white, the fat layer's thicker. Farmed tuna gets like that. Farmed fish is white like this. Wild fish isn't so fatty. The meat feels so juicy! The back side is richer in flavor and aroma while the abdomen is fattier. You can tell everything by the red meat. If it tastes good so does the rest. I'm trying to get myself roused up but I'm down-. Not many good tunas today. This is the last one. OK? Upper abdomen cuts? What? I5 upper abdomen orders? We don't have I5. No tuna today. They're in the sea. Bring me good tuna! I'll come back. Why don't you go catch some tuna? The thing is, I trade tuna and that defines me. I tell myself that and I tell my employees that too. The best place to enjoy the four seasons. I trade tuna but I can't call myself a businessman. Domestically caught tuna isn't good business. You wouldn't trade them if money's your priority. For me and my customers it's a quest. Trading tuna means so much more than just trading superior fish. My quest for the ideal tuna isn't a personal obsession. It's because my customers want to buy it from me-. That's why I bid when I'm at the auction hall. Good tuna! Come and look! Some gossip about the tuna's prices. That fish was overpriced." I say those things too. But when I make a bid, I owe it to my customer to win-. It's not about the price. That's not what it's about. Those fish are priceless. Maybe it's hard to understand. The length we'd go to get just the right fish for the customer. It's not to do with the price. Nor the grade. You have to bid for the fish the customer wants. That's all. It's been tough. There's less tuna this year. Tuna give me stress so I play golf. - Does it work? - Yes. I was advised to forget tuna for a while. Don't forget tuna. That's your thing. That's your thing, right? 3 cuts for you today. Look at the fat! This is supreme. I'll take that and age it. This one's good but... I'll take the Wakayama tuna. The anticipation! There's something special about tuna. They're hard to catch. Fishermen risk their lives to catch them. We're obliged to honor their heroism with our sushi. The collar, semi-fatty, fatty and red meat. Tuna is the king. Tunas in Japanese waters are tasty because of what they eat. If tuna eat bad fish, they will taste bad too. A fertile sea makes great fatty tunas. Japan's seas are the best. We manufacture ice for the market. To keep the fish fresh. The ice is delivered at 3 AM every morning. Akimitsu Tsunoi Ice Manufacturer We take shifts to make it 24 hours a day. We break up or saw the ice to sell. We also sell blocks of ice. It's crucial to keep the fish fresh. By memorizing the customers we save time on interaction. They bring their own box so we don't need to weigh it-. We open at 2 AM. So from 2 AM to 4, maybe 5 is the busiest. The customers line up. I have the numbers on Tsukiji's visitors IO years ago-. It includes all the wholesalers. People transporting products. People working in the refrigeration facilities. Other merchants. All together 14,000 people worked in Tsukiji. Plus the 28,000 shoppers who came from outside. There were 42,000 people in Tsukiji every day. There were 19,000 vehicles at the market per day. Including motorcycles. The design concept of the market was to have the quarter circular shaped buildings along the tracks and the loading platforms. So the products could be shipped in by train and out by trucks in a seamless operation. But with highways and the larger freight capacity of trucks rail transport became obsolete. Theodore C. Bestor Social Cultural Anthropologist Harvard University Professor Ginrin Club" The library was planned in I961 and opened in I962. Ginrin Library was built to house books about the fish industry-. Ky oko FukucN Ginrinbunko Librarian Public relations for the market are planned here too. And many academics and researchers visit us here. How long are you here? I'll be in Japan for 2 weeks. I have IO more days. Hello. How have you been? Good, thanks. It's been a long time. You look good. He's like a family member, a nephew. It was about 400 years ago, in the time of the lst Tokugawa shogun. He brought fishermen from Osaka to Edo to catch fish for him. They named their new settlement after their village in Osaka. Merchants traded fish in the Nihonbashi area with the shogun's permission-. Nihonbashi was the center of the flourishing culture. That 8 acres was the best area in the city. They blocked off the traffic and had a market in the streets. The new market in Great Tokyo Produce for 5 million Tokyo citizens will be provided by the new market. Tsukiji would introduce a new system of commerce. They said, "After 300 years of being in this business" we'll have a revolution and change commerce." So they did. Now distributors would just distribute. Same with wholesalers. It was centralized. All transactions were systematically revolutionized. That's what Tsukiji symbolized. People here use the word nakama. Nakama means mates. It's not used much outside Tsukiji now. It makes us feel self conscious. Some Tsukiji guys have worked here for 60 years. They've been mates all their lives. Now they're in their 70s. They're real Tsukiji mates. They've made the word nakama their own by redefining it. A nakama purchase. 1.65 kg clams. 270,000 yen. Watch me rip off our mates. Teruhiko Ito Intermediate Wholesaler 270,000 is too much! A nakama purchase is when you buy from other vendors. When you're out of stock you buy from them. Do you have boiled scallops? - I think we're out. - Oh! How are you doing? Can I have these boiled scallops? Any other size? You want large ones? Here. I'll have a pack. A customer wants boiled ones. I have raw ones. At Tsukiji our relationships go over generations. When a son is born he becomes one of us. We have peers and mentors. It's like connecting many triangles It's like connecting many triangles New Year reception" There's a joke about homes with no kitchen knife nowadays. It's true that not many people can fillet fish. Some people, like unmarried people prefer to eat out. Some people, like unmarried people prefer to eat out. They don't cook. That's how lifestyles have changed. One of the reasons why we trade less fish. Things are different to when I first started. Things are different to when I first started. Much less fish. There used to be about 4,000 fishmongers in metro Tokyo-. Now there's less than 600. There's much less fish trade now which is a concern. My father started this shop in I939, before the war. I've been going to Tsukiji for... I'm 73 this year so almost 55 years. You have some fish to sell me? Some kids think living fish look like fillets. Nobody eats fish now. They just eat instant noodles or something. What has become of food culture? It's good as sashimi, sauteed or marinated with seaweed. Fishmongers can tell customers the best way to eat fish-. But nobody takes advantage of that. The mantle's best as sashimi. Then fry the tentacles and fins. Want a big one? Fish is best in the morning, right? You like fish? - I like sashimi. - Great. If you like fish, your kid will too. See, it's a beak, like a bird. Thank you. Eat fish! Tsukiji is a sacred place for anybody in the fishing trade. Tsurizao Morita Fishmonger, Izugin Maybe it's the awesome energy. The intermediate wholesalers are dedicated pros who choose fish for us. But it's us fishmongers who deal with consumers. Our job is to give their message to the consumers. You want scallops? Pick one. You know how to choose? Choose one that looks yummy. Then it will be. Simple. Thanks, come again! We're dealing with something people consume. In a few days it becomes part of your cells. It's like a sacred ritual. It's bigger than me earning a livelihood. Have this candy. It's chocolate... No, it's tuna. Dried squid is good for kids' teeth. They might not like it at first but they get used to it. You see... Healthy people eat well. Eat well and appreciate the food. A dental university did research. 30% of kids failed to identify all 4 major tastes. The 4 tastes are sweet, sour, salty and bitter. Have children's taste buds changed'? Nobuko lwamura Japanese Culinary Historian Over 30% of the children failed to identify the 4 tastes in the experiment. The manufacturing peak's over. Consumers have to be savvy. In Japan, instant food was introduced in I960. Saving time on food freed you for other things. That lifestyle has been promoted since then. The children of that time have their own kids now. They spend more time playing than making meals. That's the lifestyle post-war Japan promoted. School lunch ingredients provider" 80% of my clients are from schools. We mainly supply seafood for public school lunches. Those fish are 2 days old. Take these ones from yesterday's catch. These are too large for kids. They know their fish. It's a huge relief to rely on their selection. Yum ! They're huge! A whole fish! They like the taste not the bones. Many kids have choked on a fish bone. They're not used to eating fish. Hello. Welcome to our school-. Before lunch we teach the kids where the bones are and how to use chopsticks to remove meat from the bones. Imagine where the spine is. Thank you for the meal. It's delicious. Not bad. It's good. The 4th graders overcame the challenge! What an experience. The 4th graders overcame the challenge! What an experience. Hiroo lkeda Elementary School Principal Hiroo lkeda Elementary School Principal Yum. Delicious. I've never eaten a fish without help. It's for education. So I'm glad to supply quality fish at an affordable price. So I'm glad to supply quality fish at an affordable price. It's great that kids can enjoy delicious fish together. There's only one way to know what's good. You have to eat a lot. We have to maintain the quality of fish we provide-. I'd be happy if people are more interested in fish, like prices and all. I'd be happy if people are more interested in fish, like prices and all. We worry about kids growing up on ramen and hamburgers. Kids won't know what good fish is. Kids won't know what good fish is. A baby's first fish puree should be good. A baby's first fish puree should be good. He'll remember that taste all his life. So he'll want more of that taste. Seasonal fish is great. If it's delicious, kids will eat it. School lunches are our chance to impress kids with delicious fish-. School lunches are our chance to impress kids with delicious fish-. We just want to give kids more chances to eat good fish. First we'll reconnect them with fish. Japan's market distribution system supports Japan's present seafood culture. We're more aware of that now. Anyone in the trade has to raise awareness. We have to pass it on. We have to pass on the taste of good food to kids. We have to pass on the taste of good food to kids. We also need to pass cooking on to children. Food history is more fascinating than any historic novel you can read. Our origins are in our cuisine. So it's the responsibility of chefs to keep the tradition alive. We have to persevere. It's the busiest time of the year. The market's filled with people. There's tension in the air. I feel exhausted and exhilarated. There's tension in the air. I feel exhausted and exhilarated. There are lines of people including the general consumers. You can hardly move. That's Tsukiji at year-end. In a deluxe box made of Empress wood. You cook dried herring roe in bonito or kelp stock. You should try how crunchy they are. It's a New Year delicacy with a long tradition. The elderly appreciate it but their numbers are decreasing. I want to promote it to young people but it's expensive... It's almost a luxury item. Good morning, everyone. It's the only auction in the year for herring roe. Your bid determines retail prices nation-wide. So please bid with that in mind. Let's begin the bidding. You eat herring roe for good luck. Traditionally it's prepared in December and eaten at New Year. They say kelp brings joy and smiles. Herring roe symbolizes fertility. Everything's for good fortune. Herring roe symbolizes fertility. Everything's for good fortune. They're the year-end regulars. They always go to the same vendors for New Year delicacies. Come and get some! Come and get some! - Come and get some! - Here I've come! A former sumo wrestler. Thank you. Take care of yourself. I have no stock left. Everything's sold. Someone even wanted these tables. My son is a company employee and won't take over here. So I have to be the one to end the tradition. I let down my ancestors. Our business lasted for I30 years. I'm a 3rd generation owner. We go back longer than Tsukiji Market. Now I'll just enjoy retirement with my wife. You'll get up early... That's what I'm worried about. I'll wake up at 3 AM. Everyone stops working eventually, no matter what you do. You're sad when your parents die. And when you quit working. Also when your wife departs first. When you lose her. I've had 2 of life's 3 saddest events. The last one...is my wife. I'll enjoy a slow life with her for long as I can. Thank you. I feel sad to see you go. You can come back. This is for all your hard work. If I bought all these it'd cost me tens of thousands of yen. I'll add some crab and tuna. That's all I need for New Year. For a good new year! You get paid in cash. A year-end tradition. Everyone, clap your hands! I hope it'll be a good year. We'll do our best for good results. It was a rough ride for tuna this year. The prices have been just crazy! I'll stay passionate about tuna and stay loyal to my customers-. This year was a hop before the jump. We're ready for a jump. We might fall... We'll turn things around next year. I'm too skinny but I'll do my best. I'll pass on traditions to the young ones. That'll be my new year. I'm already excited about the first New Year auctions. Gather round! Keep in mind whatever we do and say goes into the fish we sell. We sell fish with love and care. And it reaches the consumers. We're preserving something important as Japanese. It's our responsibility as Tsukiji wholesalers. Well done, guys! Producers: Make TESHMA Kazuha OKUD A Producers: Kenichi NAKAYAMA Shinichiro SAKAGUCHI Music: Takahiro KIDO Special Thanks: Wholesales Co-operative of Tokyo Fish Market Screenplay, Edited and Directed by Naotaro ENDO Shochku 00., Ltd. Shochku 00., Ltd. |
|